Replaced abs actuator, getting constant beep, no warning codes, abs actuator hasn’t kicked on once.

You might be able to do limited bleeding to move fluid through the lines to each corner but you cannot bleed the actuator without Techstream or another capable professional-level scanner. (You can read this thread to see a review of some modestly priced scan tools a couple of which can do brake bleeding.)

Have you done any troubleshooting to verify whether power is getting to the actuator or not?

 

That beeping noise went away after i did a manual bleed, Filled the brake fluid reservoir between middle and max line and then cleared/reset ABS thru a scantool even though theres no codes or no lights on the dashboard. Then the beeping went away. I did abs actuator replacement recently on my 2007. I replaced mine with a new abs actuator. I did it all by myself. So far no problem. it runs great. I still need to bleed the abs actuator tho. I just got my autel ap200 scan tool for abs actuator bleeding. I hope everything works out.

SM-F936U ?

 

No lights at all doesn't sound right I guess you weren't able to power up the car you took this part out of or they took this part out of to see the lights in the codes so you wouldn't take it. I've had to change one on one car twice because one of the break actuators I got was bad oh well it happens I didn't go out and buy the $1,400 one after that either I drove around for about 3 weeks with the beep coming and going at random and the car stopping very minimally but for the driving I do it really doesn't matter I'm way out in the country when you buy these used brake actuators You want to buy them from very large junk yards and sellers on eBay most of them on the east coast or down in Conyers Georgia and no I keep saying this but they seem to have a good track on how to do this when they're sitting at a tow lot the people don't even speak English well yeah you're going to go through a lot of nonsense I've gotten so good at this I can turn one around in 2 hours almost so I'll just do it again with a part brought properly for about 250 bucks I'm not paying $1,400 generally some of my customers do and bring the part and I put it on no problem but on my personal cars generally no go or my mom's car that I bought generally not going to happen.

 

I also have a 2005prius with almost 400k miles. Im about to do a manual bleed as we speak because both rear drum brake cylinders started leaking fluid yesterday, spongy brake pedal with srs airbag light on. Im replacing my entire drums, pads, brakecylinders. Im just waiting for parts right now. This is prettymuch what i used on bleeding brakes.

SM-F936U ?

 

The AP200 if that's what you're getting should get you through all this business

 

Ill try the ap200 soon. I decided to record the whole process on video. Imma see if i can put all the clips in one video and then upload.

SM-F936U ?

 

I mean you should be able to bleed the brakes all the way around or you do the fronts with the relays out like a regular car until you get the fluid to run clean in a jar or come out of the fitting with predominantly no air in it then in the back you put the relays in and have someone step on the brake crack the fitting and you'll see the fluid it'll squirt in the face if you're not careful You want to be closing it and just barely cracking it with your wrench then when it slows down you close it off and tell your buddy to get off the pedal for a minute let the accumulator actuator pump run and stop do it again that generally clears up all of your line bleeding all that's left to do now is bleed internally of the actuator. That takes that funny scan tool and the pumping of the brakes 30 times and 30 seconds you'll feel the brake pedal change while you're doing that and I'm guessing that when these valves open and close in the actuator it sends any air it finds up into the reservoir so you don't have to bleed the lines again at least that's how it's worked out for me a bunch of times right here with these four cars.

 

The joys of installing a used ABS module. It's possible the ABS module has a failed motor. Is the wire harness plug fully seated?

 

But in order for the beep to go away something has to be coming on to pump up the fluid in the accumulator and put it in the accumulator rather under that pressure so it must be running and pumping and I'm guessing the lights are somewhat off now?

 

Have the relays already out so that when you get to that point you just click next next next next next

 

Isn't that red wire to jump out the p lock error failure? I would think you would want to get all that electrical nonsense cleaned up first before you're start messing with electrical components that are either intermittent or not whirring or coming on

 

That's kind of funny because I've installed like two bad ones myself and all of them always made all the racket did all the running tried to do the pumping whatever they were just as bad as what I took out so they had an internal leak ran excessively I've never had one that the motor was burned out and wouldn't run again If I put it in my car it came on made noises I was generally able to bleed it but I may not have been able to get through the linear valve offset etc so light stayed on things kept running brakes were working but technically inadequate and you had to be careful not let any kids drive it or anything or you wouldn't have a car. Then after I round up another actuator and slide it in there usually it works and I get the lights out I'm not had to do this three times on any of these cars yet but I've done it twice once on the same vehicle that is with a bad part. But I wouldn't have known that part was bad because something wasn't running everything was running and making the noises and all of that I just couldn't get the lights off and it had the same problems as what I just took off.

 

So after finding that mess, do you still have to change ur abs actuator again? Im thinking no. Yeah def need to take care of that fusible link first and find out whats going on with that red wire.

SM-F936U1 ?