Reviving 08

I don't think it means anything You see you don't have a speedometer or any of that in the display seems like the CM monitor display is bad I don't know why you're just getting those funny circles

 

119V sounds like it is probably too low to be useful. Fully charged it is just below 202V (according to wikipedia.) Examine the discharge curve for the NiMH chemistry and draw your own conclusions about the state of charge of that 119V pack.

If the pack was bad four years ago it is still going to be bad today. If you buy an OEM replacement pack the modules will come fully, or at least adequately, charged. Assuming the pack issue wasn't in the electronics section then installing that new OEM would let you start the motor. A bit of a risky investment if you don't know what other problems the car might have.

 

How are you reconditioning the battery?

 

How much do you really want to fix this car?

Top of the list is the high voltage battery - it's "dead". 119V is very dead. Should be around 210V. I would doubt that refurbishing this one is practical. That would leave replacement.

A new pack from Toyota is the most reliable choice but is pricey. Various refurbs are available, but can have questionable longevity.

Since the car hasn't run in years, you might need to charge whatever pack you get as it could take some (many?) cranking attempts before you get the ICE to actually run.

You also should get a more capable scantool. That Foxwell looks to only have OBD2 (ECM) functions. You need to check all ecu's for codes.

Here's a thread that reviews several apps and devices for a smartphone. Some are can scan all (14-16) systems on a Gen 2 Prius. (I might suggest a tool that has bidirectional functions - being able to command things like the fuel pump on or off can be very useful).

Or try to get a VCI cable and a copy of Toyota Techstream (the OE diagnostic software). Lots of posts in the forums on this.

The irregular dash displays might point to a problem with communication on one of the car's data networks.

https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/3290690

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Check the fuses in the engine compartment. This happens when a fuse blows, which one I can’t say for sure right now.

 

If you took off the HV safety and the car still didn't work, maybe the safety wasn't correctly installed in the first place?

 

Go to the priusapp.com website and look at the OBD2 device reviews.

That said, Dr Prius is super handy for looking at hybrid battery block voltages, but that's mostly all. Can get-clear some hybrid or ECM codes. Not much else.

You should also look at some of the more capable (all system) options in the scantool review.

When I see the dashboard not powering on completely like yours, I think that something is disrupting communication on one of the data networks. I would want to know how many ecu's (of the 14-16 on a Gen 2) can talk to a scantool.

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Yep, the AP200 is pretty good diagnostic bang for the buck. (get the AP200, not 200C, 200H, 200M or anything else)

Many here also get Dr Prius along with a second OBD2 device just because it's so handy for battery voltages (but that depends on your budget).

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Possibly a fuel system issue? Maybe there is water in the bottom of the tank or the fuel lines from sitting so long? Not sure how to fix that on this Prius as it has the strange bladder gas tank.

Here is a somewhat similar thread:

Diagnosing Toyota Prius 2007. Dtc Codes showing (C0205, C0200,c1300)(c1259,c1310) | Page 2 | PriusChat

They were able to get the motor to "run" by spraying starting fluid into the throttle body.

 

Your posts are a bit ... odd. The code scan shows C1259 and C1310 - these set when the hybrid control (or HV battery?) system has codes, but there are no codes for those systems.

P0102 can certainly prevent the ICE from running (ie, the ICE spins at 1000 RPM for about 10 seconds but doesn't actually "run"). That could be the sensor, or wiring, or the connector, etc.

The last picture of the battery pack. The "negative" side contactor (relay) is heat damaged. Toward the left side of the pic about halfway up. The copper plate on the contactor where the (-) battery lead is located. That plate is "burned" - probably overheated due to a loose connection.

I would replace that contactor. Make sure all HV stud connections are torqued to 48 -INCH pounds.

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