EGR gen. 3 sticking can I ??

Can you say more about just what you were doing then? It sounds like you had the stator (black cover) removed at the time ... otherwise you don't see the spring or have much way to push it ... but then you ask below if you can take the stator off, so it's not quite clear to me what you were doing above.

Yes, you can take the stator off. The two screws holding it can be stubborn, and a simple hand impact driver (easily found at the hardware store, the kind you just hold with counterclockwise pressure in one hand and bop on the end with a hammer in the other) is the easiest way to loosen them. Doesn't take any heroics with the hammer either; just a light bop or three and then the screws spin right out.

You can strip the heads if you try to just muscle them loose with a screwdriver, and then you've got a headache.

If you take the stator off, you can also take the rotor off the valve shaft (it just unscrews) and look inside at the condition of its "ski jump" rotation stop. Sometimes a rut goes through it. If so, it's trashed:



As for the in/out motion of the valve shaft itself, I cleaned up a used one with some kinda solvent once (which left it very unlubricated), then added some high-temp graphite grease I had lying around meant for gas stove valves. Still seems to be doing the trick.

 

Somebody posted a photo of a disassembled EGR valve here that didn't look anything like the original inside, and it turned out to be some non-OEM one. It was like they'd built it out of some toy motor that was on hand. Yuck.

 

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Yes you can, though the screws are tough to loosen, and prone to strip the heads, so you want to take measures to avoid that.

P0401 code help needed | Page 3 | PriusChat

What's the miles on it btw? And how long have you had it?

 

When I cleaned mine I took the cover off and I just noticed that the thing opened and closed as I turned what is that the stator the magnet whatever it is the valve would move in and out then when I put the pieces back together you can't move it in or out I guess you could turn on the other side but I'm not sure about that I'm beginning to think my stuttering persona is due to a bad EGR valve after looking at some videos it looks like my EGR valve will allow water to pour through it and it looks like it's supposed to be closed when you take it off the car You shouldn't be able to blow through it? I watched the video where the guy put a block off plate where the EGR gold tube bolts up to the EGR customer drove the car around for two days with no knock no funny business. Then the guy remove the EGR valve from the same car with the block off plate and notice that the stopper the thing with the ramp in it I guess was sitting open all the time he could run his pick underneath it and water would pour through it but then he never got around to talking about whether it should be closed at all times or if you take it off the car will it be open like it was last used? So I'm guessing it should be closed anytime I have it off the car in my hand unless I've activated it or taking the state or cover off and turned it? The stutter from EGR fluctuation or whatever is going on is much more civilized than when the fires getting put out by water I've looked with an inspection camera I have no droplets EGR seems to be the next thing to look at.

 

Recent purchase or had it since new?

Sounds like head gasket failure and I would focus on that first. It's my (untested, unproven, unsubstantiated) theory that the EGR clogging with carbon is the primary cause of head gasket failure.

But don't think cleaning or replacing EGR components now is going to magically fix the head gasket.

 

You have to block the egr at the output of the valve for a definitive diagnostic of a sticking or stuck open egr valve. Which is the most common and perhaps only symptomatic egr system problem. Blocked or clogged will code but the engine will be smooth.

Car Care Nut Egr video with block tube test

With Techstream or other capable bidirectional scanner you can manually step the egr valve open and closed while monitoring Map pressure in Maintenance Mode (continuous idle).

Map pressure will read 4 at idle with closed egr. Incrementing the 110 step egr to 30 will likely stall the engine with noticeable roughness around 15-20 steps. Stalling usually happens before misfires.

The OEM kits with egr valve and gaskets are around $150 plus tax. No shipping if you buy online from a dealer with local pickup.

Updated egr valve 25620-37120 included with kit 04004-58137



The $99 aftermarket egr valves use a different mechanism and are known to stick out of the box. Many have JDMSpeed on them and no Toyota part number.

Aftermarket egr valve

 

Don't waste your money on rock auto, they suck! You never really know what you'll get.
Go to Toyota and get the FULL head gasket kit.