Brake booster/accumulator compatibility?

The noise you’re describing is what I heard for a year. Your traction warning light, abs light, and brake light are probably on the dash. Look at the label info @ChapmanF pointed out above.

 

Individual cases can be different. The pump is what makes the noise when it runs, but the internal leak causing it to run can be in either unit. There are more internal valves and such inside the master cylinder/actuator, so the odds favor that unit to be where the problem is. It isn't possible, though, to say 'always' or 'never'. A dealership will typically replace both units, just because they don't want to take the chance of seeing you again soon. (And the money doesn't come out of their pocket.)

You might be able to try with a mechanics' stethoscope to pin down where the leak might be.

 

I bet they're a Toyota dealers out there that have never done this repair actually. With the proper scan tool to bleed the brakes there's no liability doing this job You mean because it's a brake job so it's changing pads and putting on new rotors and bleeding the brakes and so on as high liability work shoot I wish that was the case No it isn't I mean I guess you could look at it that way if you like but you know I don't see that any kind of way The only reason I wouldn't change the generation 3's two pieces is because of a well all the disassembly and what have you but I wouldn't have anybody else do it if it's going to have to be done on our two cars here I'll do it We haven't gotten one to that point yet The engines blow up first usually so there's always that so if you're doing this job right now and you haven't done anything with your engine maybe have a little read and look because generally a lot of this stuff comes up close to each other.

 

I guess I shouldn’t speak for all members when I say no one wants the liability. but when I read other threads and went through mine regarding the subject that’s basically what I understood some members alluding to.

 

People over here are the real safe type no risk takers for the most part I can't speak for everybody but this comes up very quickly I don't know if they're afraid about individually being sued by saying something and somebody takes it literal if that's even a thing. Or if it's just the way the internet has made people doesn't really matter to me I say whatever I want and I say what I do and if you do the same thing and you kill yourself I don't know what to say you know. Maybe you weren't paying attention you didn't take your meds that day I can't tell from here I do unsafe things all the time I do them carefully and prove a lot of myths like unbolting the top nut off your strut and the spring's going to blow apart and blow the top plate through your head and take off your arm and sever an artery and all that maybe on a dump truck but not on a Corolla or a Prius or a Cressida or a Camry sorry all that's going to do is go pop and it will scare the piss out of you as you see in the video but that's it that's your mind's problem not the strut coming aparts issue that's going to hurt you.

 

What is "techstream" ? I don't have that or scantool, and it was simply the old method of bleeding brakes after I changed the booster pump/accumulator which I got online for $450.

 

I don't have "techstream" or scantool, and it was simple to use the old method of bleeding brakes after I changed the booster pump/accumulator which I got online for $450.

 

That is because you only changed the pump.

 

You have to bleed the master cylinder itself or you get a code. You can only do that with a scan tool. If you didn’t get any code then that’s great.

 

Even when you change the pump you're messing with a line connecting it to the master cylinder and you're going to get some fluid out and air in.

The air that gets in that way has to be got out by the car's computer doing the right things with the pump and the valves inside the master cylinder/actuator. The idea that there even is an "old method of bleeding brakes" for this system is a little far-fetched. Thinking it seems to work ok after whatever you did is good as far as that goes, and with luck you won't get in a situation that changes your mind.

 

Thank you C-in-DC for your insights ! I am just learning how to navigate in this space. With the brakes problem, This 10 yr old Prius with 200K miles was worth less than 4 grand, so I did not want to throw much money at it - soon it will be time to upgrade ! I was very unhappy with the Toyota Service Mgr who told me I did not have a problem, but during the winter this Town overflows with snowbirds so businesses are over-run with customers who will pay any price for quick service. I am a compulsive fixer, and my wife thinks I lean a bit too much towards the tightwad side. Once we drove through a "town" in Missouri named Tightwad ? ! There are nine tiny surrounding villages with names starting with "T". Moral to the story: "Don't choose a "T" - name for your town unless U want it to be Tiny" !

 

I "tested" the anti-lock feature by HARD breaking several times at 15 mph on a grass/gravel back road nearby, and all the wheels would slide some and skip some while stopping. That does not seem right -- I thought anti-lock meant that the wheels would NOT slide... but maybe grass & gravel are not a good test. I don't want to slide my tires on concrete or asphalt. I wish I had done the "anti-lock test" before I changed the pump/accumulator assembly. Tomorrow I'll "test" the brakes again at 25 mph. Thanks again for your insights, Mr. ChapmanF and Mr. C-in-DC. But, Hey, didn't the service mgr tell me "I don't have a problem since I don't have a code" ! !

 

A car parts store checked my OBD. There was no code showing, but the technician thought maybe his code-reader was incapable of reading anti-lock brakes codes. ? ? Soon I will test the anti-lock feature by braking hard at 25mph with the passenger side wheels on grass and the driver-side wheels on hard surface. It will be fun to see what happens.

 

That's not a real test. The wheels will lock, for a fraction of a second. The abs
will release the pressure to the wheel that stops. So it doesn't stay locked.

If you really want to "try" it, use a wet road or dirt road. Drive 40mph, or faster and
press hard and fast on the brake pedal. You'll probably feel a lot of hard bumping and they
lock and release several times.

Get a code reader that can read ABS. You can purchase one for less than $50. Autozone sells them.

 

If you have ABS, VSC, or ECB (the ((!)) light) illuminated, you don't have to wait until you have a scan tool that works to read those codes. You can also read them like this:

Blink (a/k/a Flash) Codes – How to. | PriusChat

 

THANKS for your comments ! I bought a new booster/accum. from Amazon for $450.00 incl. tax. Because of interruptions, indecision & clumsiness it took me almost a week to pull the old & install the new. It seems better but it's true - I now have about 1/4 cup of air inside the master cyl. How do I know ? Because when the car sits 10 minutes the level of the fluid in the reservoir rises to about 1/4 cup too full. As soon as i open the driver's door the booster pump runs "a long time" and I watch the fluid level drop to the proper mark ! Brakes work FINE ! ! Been driving it for 2 weeks ! ! Does someone within 150 miles have "techstream" or "scantool" who would help me bleed the system ? ? ? 863-six five eight-2799. THANKS in advance ! ! I'll pay for lunch together at Outback or Jason's Deli at least. OR, maybe I'll look online today and try to buy my own techstream or scantool. After all, it looks like I've saved about 3.5 grand according to an earlier post ! !

 

THANKS ! I apologize for not seeing your post before I wrote my long paragraph ! My wife frequently tells me to listen more !

 

Again, THANKS ! I'll look for codes today. There are no indications on the dash of any trouble what so ever.

 

What part of Florida?
It's likely you have a lot of air from not being able to bleed correctly.
That's why it pumps for so long and the fluid level is so different.