Building a Track-Monster XW20

First post here. Owned my 05 base Prius since January 2023, 20k miles clocked! She's been through the ringer, catalytic converter stolen my first week of ownership, two traction events caused me to collide with two curbs and destroy my alignment (and tires), a few deaths due to relying on the fuel gauge, a coolant flow control valve and APP malfunction (classic), and of course the occasional disappearing instrument cluster. This has been the most frustrating car I've owned or driven, especially as I became a "car guy" 6 months into owning it, but it's been a great learning experience as a technician. As I am extremely petty and feel challenged by how pessimistic this forum is about performance modifications, I've spent the better part of two weeks gathering information on successful modifications to the XW20's 1NZ-FXE ICE, and NA modifications for the 1NZ-FE that work for both motors. My ultimate goal with this car IS to prove a point, so honestly if it explodes I won't be too sad. These motors aren't exactly hard to come by

*To save time and finger energy I'll be abbreviating the Otto and Atkinson variations as FE and FXE respectively.*
What I've gathered so far:

1. The 1NZ-FE and 1NZ-FXE share many components, one set up for lower-compression higher-expansion Atkinson cycle, the other for *normal* otto cycle (what even is normal at this point)
   
   Due to this fact, a modified cycle 1NZ-FXE is possible by either swapping the FXE intake cam for a matrix/echo FE cam or aftermaket FE cam, OR doing a complete FE head swap using both intake and exhaust cams.
   -The former benefits from cost, ease of install, and retaining the OEM exhaust cam for [fuel efficiency purposes? correct me if I misunderstand]. The ladder benefits from using both intake and exhaust cams [full otto cycle, no longer modified atkinson cycle?] and OEM FE valve, lifter, and rocker arm clearances.Toyota Jesus is the only successful case of a forced Otto 1NZ-FXE I can find, and he only swapped the intake cam. User way2coolwheels installed an FE intake cam onto a picked FXE motor and noted the camshaft did not rotate, likely due to valve clearances on on the FXE being too tight for the larger FE camshaft lobes (this may be circumvented through sheer luck of your valve clearances being over spec due to wanting a faster car.) A forced Otto cycle 1NZ-FXE motor is shown to run a 13:1 compression ratio, which considering the design of the FXE bottom-end may be a concern for longevity. [again, correct me if I am wrong but as the Atkinson cycle motor is designed for low compression-high expansion operation, the internal components differing from the Otto motor will be under high stress at 13:1 compression?] Will require 91 Octane or higher fuel to prevent detonation.
   
2. As there still seems to be no way of cracking this 20 year old computer (if a homeless man can make a motorcycle out of a shopping cart why can't these overpriced tuners make me a standalone for a car as old as them?) and the ECM will labor strike against even 1lb of boost, options to further increase power are very limited. As a CAI does not exist and I've seen a short-ram intake dyno 5hp less than stock, options are as follows:
   
   Motorcycle Throttlebodies with manifold adapter/1NZ-FE ITB kit
   -I have seen this done in several Toyota Echo drag and track builds. No dyno numbers but if you know anything about ITBs, you should know peak power is not why people do these. Open ITBs sound amazing (IMO) and trumpeted/filtered ITBs provide more torque throughout the powerband than open as well as increased drive-ability (throttle response) on the high end due to the air intake/volumetric efficiency. Motorbike TBs with custom manifold adapter (3d printed or ordered) would be the most affordable option, but requires assembling the entire thing yourself (more on throttle actuator linkage later) The 1NZ-FE ITB kits are VERY expensive, but come fully assembled with a manifold adapter. Issues I see with this being how the ECM will handle that level of volumetric efficiency while running 13:1 compression. I am not too familiar with EFI tuning or the thermal efficiency of this motor on a modified cycle, so please educate me. Are there ANY standalone ECU options or ways to achieve a drive-able AFR with this setup? Would bike TBs with similar size injectors along with the stock MAF behind a mushroom filter be runnable on the stock ECU? Would something like a microsquirt install be possible?
   -The hybrid transaxle is designed for a motor with a 5200? RPM redline, though manufacturer specs rate both MG1 and MG2 to 10kRPM. Not too sure about the final drive sun, ring, and planetary specs though. Seeing as this would allow the engine to reach the 8k-9kRPM range, how would the transaxle components and MGs hold up? I am fully aware this will destroy the transaxle long-term, but at this point reinforcing the transaxle components may not be that big an undertaking. In my imagination a ~160whp ICE hybrid vehicle that can go idle-9kRPM with 0 shifts is worth the effort.
   -The final and most puzzling concern would be that the Toyota Echoes and Yarii I have seen with these ITBs have all had one thing we don't: cable-driven throttle actuation and a piggyback/standalone ECU. While I really could just route a cable through the firewall to an analog pedal and somehow route it around the intestines to the new TB linkage, there would be idle/starting issues with no communication between the added TPS and the APP the PCM would expect to find. My solution: remount the old TB actuator solenoid and return spring without any of the old TB pieces and connect it to the new TB linkage to retain the OEM drive-by-wire TCS and APP. Using a mushroom filter for the trumpets along with a manifold compatible with our MAF sensor may make this easier. I hate how slowly the OEM system opens the throttle so any mods to increase throttle response will help this case. Did I mention I like ITBs? BRAP BRAP BRAP BRAP BRAP BRAP BRAP
   
   Red-Bullet/QS3 Quantum VVT solenoid
   -Proven gains in throttle response, unknown interaction with FE cam-swapped Otto motor. [Did the same-gen 1NZ-FE motors also have vvti solenoids?] Safest way to make the car a little more fun outside of improving handling/weight reduction* (more on this later) Simple install, not too expensive, I just don't know how available they are in the US.
   
   HV Battery Upgrade (aftermarket reman or Rav4 swap)
   -I have seen theorizations of a swap of the HV battery and traction motor from the hybrid RAV4s, but I am basically clueless when it comes to electronics (especially hybrid). All I can really say is options to increase maximum output of the HV battery and upgrade the traction motor seem to be pretty failsafe methods of increasing performance given everything is installed correctly. Obviously the reman'ed high capacity high voltage HV batteries are made FOR the Prius, but I couldn't find one in 2024 if my Mother and my Cat's life depended on it.
   
   OpenInverter
   -Again, not very familiar with Hybrid electronics, but I am aware OpenInverter boards allow user access to some hybrid system configuration. Obviously this will be necessary with this level of modification to the ICE>MG>WHEELS>BRAKES>MG>HV BATTERY power flow.
   
   FE Headers and High-Flow cats (Exhaust)
   -If I remember correctly, the Atkinson cycle motor requires more than your typical amount of exhaust back pressure in order for the EGR to function properly, as this vehicle does not appear to have an EGR pump. Will this be an issue running Otto cycle? Would headers or high-flow cats with a true custom exhaust (bigger pipes for sure) harm engine performance because of this design? I noticed while deleting my muffler that the midpipe goes 90deg from the resonator to where the muffler section port bolts up, not a very efficient path from the exhaust ports to the tailpipe!
   
3. This car's aerodynamics break my heart
   -I am convinced Toyota placed 2 engineers with opposing plans for this car in mind to battle over which designs made it to production, causing half the vehicle to resemble some of the most aerodynamic sports cars of all time (Tatra to be specific) and the other half to cut through the air like a golf cart. Of course now that Toyota announced "no more boring cars" the Prius fully leaned into that Tatra inspo. What options are available to reduce drag and wind pull? Any winds over 16mph make the car unbearable to drive if they are blowing perpendicular to me, the sides of this car really are just a flat wall. I know there are aero/body kits available, but I don't know that they fit the XW20 chassis.
   
4. Pads, Rotors, Boots, and Suspension
   -Regenerative braking reduces pad wear to a point that OEM pads often outlast most of your other braking components. Will aftermarket pads more suitable for hybrid track/street performance affect regenerative braking? Will aftermarket drilled/slotted rotors? Considering the braking power this system provides from the factory is an upgrade even worth it for track applications?
   -As far as suspension goes, what are my options for adjustable coil-overs that don't cost as much as a second Prius? Ideally the car will be a few inches lower and be adjustable somewhat on the fly, preferably serviceable struts. I know I just mentioned a Cam swap and custom ITB setup then asked for cheap coil-overs (just like your car-kid stereotype said I would), but I honestly have so much faith in the OEM steering and suspension that I don't think $2000+ coil-overs and forged tie rods are necessary even on the track. I need whatever drugs they gave the engineers who designed this power steering system, it really feels powerful and precise when cornering and is smooth as butter. If I ever built a Frankenstein car for anything that requires steering, I would use this one.
   
   I expect to be met with all of the same responses from the pessimist hypermilers who refuse to let gearheads do what they were meant to (break the machine until you figure out how to stop it from breaking) but I hope that the small "tuner" community I've found on this forum might rally together and find a baseline for real performance modification. The more people on board trying new things the easier it gets to have parts CNC'ed and kits assembled for sale to the general public. Every tuner community started nowhere, just look at any new enthusiast car. After a few years of collaboration and couple hundred blown motors you have entire websites dedicated to aftermarket parts for one chassis. No part of this man-made machine is beyond human understanding, so why limit yourself because your plans go against the OEM's intentions?