P0A80 Code- but is it really the hybrid battery

Yes pretty much that's what you're up against You keep driving it until it does it again because you cleared the codes or somebody cleared the codes I get that you have a permanent store that's wonderful forget about the permanent just put it out of your mind let's act like it's not there and we don't see it when the lights come back on and you have the not permanent code Don't immediately clear it. Then is when inspections and knowing what you're looking at might come in handy The difference in module or blocks and all that is very slim.

 

You're comparing the P0A80 code, which is the result of thorough real-time battery testing that the battery ECU does continuously—something you have no way to duplicate—to a less-comprehensive snapshot "battery test" you are running with some tool.

In that contest, the ECU is what's likely to be right.

 

If the P0A80 code is triggered again, a good scan tool can be used to look at the freeze frame data that was captured when the code was triggered. Looking at the freeze data, you should be able to tell which of the 14 blocks in the battery pack is the problem. The P0A80 code is triggered when a 0.3v or larger voltage difference is seen between the highest block and the lowest block.

The complete battery pack is made up of 28 modules. A block is 2 modules, so there are 14 blocks in the battery pack. Toyota uses small wires on each block (2 modules) to monitor the voltage of the block. The voltage sensing wires are connected to the battery ECU.

The battery data from the scanner that you posted in the pictures just shows the voltages of the 14 battery blocks at one specific point in time. I am guessing that the car was stationary. The highest block was 16.8v, and the lowest block was 16.7v, so the voltage difference at that single point in time was 0.1v. The ECU continually monitors the voltage difference between the 14 battery blocks. The voltage difference between the battery blocks will change as you drive the car. The greatest difference will occur during maximum regeneration braking (charging of the battery) and during maximum acceleration ( discharging of the battery). So a car that is stationary (not being driven) may show that the battery looks good, but when the car is driven (regeneration braking and acceleration) the voltage difference between the battery blocks may exceed 0.3 volts.

If you want to monitor the HV battery, use the Dr. Prius app on your phone or tablet. Download the app and look at the demo, and you will see what I described above about the voltages changing in the battery blocks as you drive the car.
See the Dr.Prius website for more information.

 

Keep in mind that the information the battery ECU has for its own use is real-time: it knows those block voltages in all kinds of different driving conditions and it knows the battery currents that were flowing at the same instants it saw the voltages. You can't ever touch that with any test you do with a scan tool, because the scan tool can only send queries to the car "please tell me a couple of the block voltages", "please tell me a couple more", "please tell me the current" and it gets snapshotty answers from the car—voltage readings from slightly different times than the current reading, and so on.

You can do various kinds of rough battery tests and they're ok as far as they go, but it'll often be wishful thinking to suppose your testing shows the battery OK and the battery ECU has made a mistake. The ECU has the more complete picture.

 

Yes, you need an OBD2 bluetooth adapter to use the Dr.Prius app to look at the HV battery data from your car. To look at the demo that is in the app, you do not need the adapter. See the Dr.Prius website for information about recommended OBD2 bluetooth adapters. Two that work and that are inexpensive ($13) for an android phone or tablet is the blue colored Panlong or Veepeak, which are sold on Amazon. If you have an apple phone or tablet, you would need a different adapter.

 

The C1259 and C1310 codes are very familiar 'round here. You can find explanations of them on this wiki page too:

Blink (a/k/a Flash) Codes – How to. | PriusChat

They are codes reported by the brake/skid ECU, but they don't mean anything more than "hey, the brake/skid ECU has been notified that the hybrid system has trouble codes, go read those".

So if you have a P0A80 (which is one of the codes the hybrid system can report), that explains having C1259 and C1310. Those two C codes will go away as soon as whatever hybrid system code you have does.

 

Based on the pictures that you uploaded in post #27, it looks like the Innova 3160RS scanner can access the freeze frame data for the P0A80 "Stored" code. If you scroll through the 17 pages of data, you should see the voltages of the 14 battery blocks (V1, V2, ... , V14). Find the block with the highest voltage and the lowest voltage. Subtract the lowest voltage from the highest voltage, and this is the voltage difference that triggered the P0A80 code. What is the voltage difference in the freeze frame data?

 

Sorry, I was thinking that there were 17 pages of freeze frame data, and you only uploaded a few of those pages. But I now see that there are 17 parameters in the freeze frame data, and all of them are shown in the pictures. I know that if you look at the freeze frame data for code P0A80 using TechStream, the 14 battery blocks will be listed.

I am not a mechanic, just a retired guy who has too much time on hand, so I post on this forum.
In my opinion, I think you can continue to use the car, but do not drive it very far from home just in case it leaves you stranded.

 

I am surprised that you are having problems with the HV battery already, especially with the low mileage on your car.

You should be able to replace the HV battery without much problem. The hardest part would be lifting it out of the car and putting it on a work bench. In the USA, you can buy a new HV battery from the parts department of some dealerships for about $2000. You might want to call your local dealership and ask if they would sell one to you and what the price is. Note that prices will vary between dealerships for the same part, so you need to call or search online for the best price.

 

While a variety of different things can go wrong with the battery, Toyota provided a variety of trouble codes to identify those different things. The conditions that set P0A80 are fairly specific to reduced performance of the battery modules.

 

You may have misheard him, or he may be simply clueless, or talking you into spending money on unrelated things.

The ECM (engine control module) has no responsibility for setting codes about the traction battery. Your P0A80 code is set by a completely different computer in the car, the power management control ECU. The code is based on information from another separate unit, the Battery Smart Unit, located inside the battery. (In previous generations that was called the battery ECU and had its own bus address; in gen 3 it's pared down to just a voltage and current sensor with a private serial link to the power management control ECU.)

My first thought would have been that the dealer mechanic meant one of those two units, and you misunderstood him to be saying ECM. But then he also brought the P0607 into it, and that code does come from the ECM, so maybe he really was mixing the different ECUs up, either because he doesn't know better, or to get you to spend some extra money. Hard to tell.