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Toyota Avalon HV battery temp and voltage sensors

Discussion in 'Other Cars' started by Kris_Parker, Mar 12, 2024.

  1. Kris_Parker

    Kris_Parker Member

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    Not sure if this is a right place to ask a question, but I got 2013 Toyota Avalon. I already disassembled the battery, everything is apart except the sensors. Just wanted to double check which on of them is a temp sensor and which is a voltage sensor. Usually I move the temp sensors close to center, because that's way the battery would cool off the middle more often.
     

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  2. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Everything on the bottom of the battery is a temperature sensor.

    Usually I move the temp sensors close to center, because that's way the battery would cool off the middle more often.

    I'm not sure I understand that statement. Are you saying you move all the temp sensors to the center of the pack so the fan runs more often? Whether one sensor or all of them read high, the fan will control the same.
     
  3. Kris_Parker

    Kris_Parker Member

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    Thank you for clarifying, didn't know that both of them is a temp sensors.

    Yes, that's what I meant. From what I observed if you connect the temp sensor to the middle (where it usually tends to get hotter) the fan turns on more often, at least that's the case in gen3 prius. Here is a video where I picked it.
     
  4. Kris_Parker

    Kris_Parker Member

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    If you don't mind my asking, this 2013 Toyota Avalon HV got a problem with block number 11 (I scanned both with Tech Stream and Hybrid Assistant) . I already tested all modules under load test (115w/9.6 amps for 2 minutes) and block 11 is indeed the one that needs to be replaced. My question is, if I don't have modules from another Avalon, but I do have some modules from 2010 prius and 2007 prius can I mix them together or I better to find the Avalon modules? Also I just read that If you do a module replacement, you have to do that in blocks and not as individual modules, because that way you can have a higher chance of going a better rebuild, how true is that? Besides doing the module (or block) replacement, I plan on doing some charging/discharging cycles using a grid charger and a light bulb discharger, in order to regain some capacity and balance them. toyota avolon 2013.jpg
     
  5. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Yes, those modules are physically interchangeable. If you're able to use a charger/discharger to measure the module capacities, you should be able to match them up better. The modules are 100% individual, just wired in series and measured in pairs (blocks). Only the failed module needs to be replaced. Anyone saying different doesn't have a clear understanding of how it works.

    Camrys and Avalons are typically harder on their hybrid batteries than a Prius. I've found that most modules from a Prius are in better shape, capacity wise, than most from a Camry or Avalon. The important thing will be to use a replacement that is close as possible to the others capacity.
     
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  6. Kris_Parker

    Kris_Parker Member

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    By replacing modules in pairs I was to referring to what Texas Hybrid Battery once have said: "If your going to replace modules your very best chance of success is to replace them in pairs and that means blocks as monitored by the computer. When you order replacements you need to make sure that you are getting modules from the same pack/group as indicated by matching first 4 digits of the S/N." and then there is ericbecky who also says the same thing. This is from this thread, post#12 and post#18. Maybe I just didn't understand and got confused on that.

    So if I got it right, I can mix modules from different cars (different years, different models) as far as the capacity is close to the rest of the pack/module? In other word I don't need two 2013 Toyota Avalon battery to make a good One, because I can use modules from gen2 and gen3 that I already have. Did I get it right?
     
  7. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    The car doesn't care when the module was manufactured.
    When they're talking about replacing both modules in a block having the best chance of success, I would imagine that is because when the code triggers, it only gives you a block number saying one of these two modules is failing. Not every DIYer has the equipment for, or the ability to determine which of the two is bad. Replacing them both ensures the bad one is gone. I may be wrong, but that's my take.

    The first 4 digits are the date of manufacture code. Exact matches would be a lucky find. I have 1000+ and few match. Year/month is reasonable, but even if a match is found, what if one has 50k miles and the other has 400k miles? It's unlikely they would they be a good capacity match, which it's what's most important. The battery is only as strong as its weakest module.