Stealer quoting me $200+ /per injector

Yes so you have to shop around among the Chinese brands and look at reviews and specs and all that kind of thing sure you're taking a chance but it only takes a few minutes to pop them in on a generation too save your old ones you can send them out and have them cleaned and refurbished for $20 an injector or something whatever it is I can't imagine in today's manufacturing climate that this would be any kind of serious accomplishment to make injectors I mean feel injection has been around now for 70 years so there's always that I would try it. I haven't had to pull the plug on this in a generation too yet mind you usually just some good fuel additive and drive on you know drive it down the highway every so often with some techron in it things like that there's a lot of good so I've got a few here with $300,000 and a few with about half that they all idle and run about the same and get about the similar gas mileage depending upon who's driving so they're pretty consistent cars.

 

I doubt I would invest in replacing 105k mile injectors without at least trying top tier gas for a few tanks or quality injector cleaner.
At worst, refurbished OEM injectors are available from Rock Auto for $30 each.

Is the $900 quote for new injectors and installation?

 

That's assuming you get them to run right in the first place. We have a few threads around here where people ....didn't.

I wouldn't buy the $200 ones at the dealer either.

On the other hand if I really thought my injectors were trouble I would use one of the rebuild services. Some do swaps, some rebuild yours and send them back, depends on how much downtime you can live with.

Either way you wind up with real Denso injectors rebuilt with real parts and seals, usually for around $35 per.

Good luck!

 

We did some of that here on PriusChat too. I'd send the last restored set to who needed them, they'd send their old set to the restorer, the restorer'd send them to me.

I still have the last restored set of those. They're the ones used in gen 1 and gen 2. I know gen 3 is different. Don't know about the c.

 

Did you measure ohms on each? If the ohms are ok, just cleaning should do. I guess you made sure it was injectors that are causing the rough idle. I would almost bet it isn’t at 105k.

 

Did you clean throttle body? If not I’d try that first.

IIRC cleaning the internals of injectors is tricky, involves powering them and running a solvent through??

 

The plugs weren't from Amazon, were they?

We have threads about those too.. one member already had the tip fall off a counterfeit plug and beat the piston face pretty well.

You have to be really, really careful about getting auto parts from the internet.

 

For the MAF, keep in mind the portion visible when looking down the throat of the throttle body is merely the temperature sensing bulb. The MAF element is enclosed internally inside the plastic housing and requires removing the sensor from the throttle body to be able to spray it or wipe it with a q-tip.

The car just doesn't start up and turn off as smoothly as it used too. When turning off it seems to "diesel" for a half second
If this is your main concern, and you have no CEL/DTCs, a weak/aged HV battery often shows these symptoms as an early indicator of weakness, where the transition between engine on/off or off/on isn't very 'crisp'. I've noticed quite often, a new battery or good refurbished battery makes this transition much more crisp.