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General question about interlock codes in the generation 2

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Tombukt2, Feb 28, 2024.

  1. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I believe the codes are p3000 and then when I try to start the car it turns into 3140 and whatever the codes are for each one of the main relays in the battery box that they are stuck closed I can verify that they're closed by there's no voltage moving to the outside of the relays at all. I sit in the car push the brake push the button and I hear the relays click one more extra time than they do in my car that I drive everyday which is the same car but a different one. I take the battery out of the car with the failing interlock and put it in my car and drive it 20 or 30 mi and everything is fine no battery codes no problems no anything. Another interesting thing is in the car with the codes even after the car is supposedly booted up and the triangles on and I'm interlocked out I still have 12 volts to the relays in the HV battery so then they should be open and voltage moving correct? So how is the car shutting off the relays knowing there's a problem somewhere but yet the relay still have 12 volts going to them so they should be switched to the on position? Is there a secondary source of shutting off those relays even if I disconnect the orange wires that run up to the front of the car to try and isolate the problem right there at the battery The relays never open to allow voltage to determinals that would go up to the transmission I get or to the inverter rather. I'm just trying to figure out how they're staying shut off but I dropped the same battery in my car in the relays open right up everything starts the battery charges I'm driving 2030 however many miles I want no issues drop the battery back in the offending car still have all the codes and I can't move juice from the HV battery to the inverter at all. So what is basically causing this like the body computer or something I don't really understand how the interlock works or how many pieces there are to it everything in the car looks relatively clean not flooded no burn up anything that we can see we've looked through the dash and where wiring runs and goes I'm thinking now to look in the inverter or just swap out the inverter but I figured when I took the lines off of the HV battery in the back that run up to the front of the car if those wires are the inverter where the problem there now out of the loop but apparently they're not. So I'm thinking maybe the wires running from the battery to the inverter or wherever they go up the car line like recently a few people have noticed they've gone bad or something's happened but I don't know how to check that looks like I'm going to need some really long leads for my test meter one to go up near the inverter and one to stick on the terminal in the back and what see what the resistance is in the wire oh boy. I really want to know what's going on here so I can tell the customer it's worth more than the car is worth to even fool with or what have you this is an '05 car with 214,000 miles on it that's been rode hard but not put up so wet if you will.
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    In the weird language of electrical stuff, a "closed" switch or relay is one that is "on" (or "made") and conducting current, and an "open" switch or relay is one that is "off" (or "broken", which in this sense doesn't mean anything's wrong with it) and not conducting.

    When the car does its check for relays stuck closed, it is checking for the kind of fault (usually contacts welding themselves together) that would prevent the relay contacts separating and opening the circuit when the car is turned off.

    Those tests and codes are separate from the interlock tests and codes. If codes for both are showing up, there'd seem to be more than one thing going on.

    The interlock circuit is a dead-simple circuit where the HV control ECU likes to see its ILK terminal grounded. The circuit goes through the battery safety plug and through two cover interlocks in the inverter and ends up at body ground, so when all three of those interlocks are made, the circuit gets pulled to ground and the HV control ECU is happy. One of your other threads already has the locations of all those things and of the junctions under the driver's kick panel where the circuit passes between different wire harnesses. It would really be faster and easier to test with your meter than to keep talking about. If you approach the test right you don't even need really long leads for your meter, 'cause you can use the body of the car for that.
     
  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Well after reading tons and tons and tons of pages from this exact form about people that have had the same problem with the interlock codes the 3140 or whatever it is No one is posted what their resolve was so I'm assuming most of these cars have gone to the towing lot which is like the car that I'm working on now at a towing lot and it doesn't look like it's been the best cared for a car in the world nor the worst. So what I'm looking to see is what other people have done I haven't seen anything where somebody said oh yeah I just looked under the passenger foot well and found the ILK wire or whatever it is and it was stripped off and touching ground or intermittently when the passenger put his foot down or whatever I'm interested in what everybody else has done over the years because you know what nothing changes in automobileia what everybody else is done is what's going to be wrong with this car that I'm looking at in the tow lot I can almost guarantee it but it looks like when this shows up on a lot of cars they come here talk about it then you never hear from him again because they traded that nonsense in for a Yaris a Chevrolet terrain I have no idea That's why I don't like open-ended threads that go nowhere Guess most people don't but anyway so I haven't seen what anybody else has done here apparently it doesn't get published. Because one of those things that anybody else has done if anybody's ever done anything. Is going to be probably the same thing or very similar so there's no reason to spend hours and hours running electrical test and checking wires and all of this stuff because there are millions of these cars on the road and I would expect somewhere somebody in this world has fixed these problems before or they haven't and they've all gone to the junkyard which is possible Chevy citations had some problem like this if you remember such a vehicle.
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of people broke out a meter, found their problem in twenty minutes and fixed it, and moved on to their next honey-do without spending time writing a post to tell the world that's what works.
     
    #4 ChapmanF, Feb 28, 2024
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2024
  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    No I would expect actually that's the exact opposite of what would happen but apparently you must be correct about this one place about Prius because you've been here well I don't know since the beginning or something I have no clue nor does it matter That's not the point I'm not going to have to break out much of nothing because I will find people somewhere that have dealt with this and know exactly what gets replaced or whatever there's a part or something that deals with this people aren't just looking and finding this wire and there's a short in it just because Toyota made it so on and so forth that that's just the way it is I mean that's the way the world works unfortunately so there's got to be a reason because everybody talks about everything else on this forum there's no way this just gets swept under the proverbial carpet so either these cars are going to the tow lot they're getting out trading the cars in whatever but I see no resolve for like this one issue it seems like All the other issues within some sort of time weeks or months somebody comes back and says oh yeah by the way I hate the fact that I didn't so on and so forth this is what happened and this is what we did was the easiest thing we ever did in our lives once we did whatever talk to some other people that had this similar problem at one point and boom I doubt many people are pulling out the metal plate under the floor on the Prius and I don't know what unless you got a car that's been in a flood or you getting your car with muddy boots and they're just nasty and do crazy things or whatever doesn't seem likely but we'll get to that at some point I'm sure this is a back burner item The car is probably never going to go anywhere etc etc somebody just wants to do something because well that's what they want to do I already got the free parts I want out of the deal and I told the dude what if you want a Prius we can get millions of them they don't cost squat we can get cars that run Why are we going to spend time pulling up floor boards and playing a bunch of hootenanny games with wiring I'm in the southeast United States where nothing happens to wiring basically.
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Seriously, when somebody faces a question like "here's a simple series circuit that goes through several connectors and ends up at ground, does it conduct to ground now or not, and if not where's the break?", a person who knows how is likely to just go find the break, fix it, and move on ... for a bunch of reasons:

    • It's just faster to do than to post about
    • When you solve a problem by just doing the obvious thing any sensible person would do to solve it, there's little point in writing a post saying "hey, doing the obvious thing worked again".
    • It's likely you're going to find a bad connection in one of the connectors the circuit goes through, but there's no systematic reason to think it's going to be the same place for anybody else with the issue, so a post saying "in my car the bad connection was this one" probably won't save anyone else's time, and may waste it if they try to just copy your steps instead of just doing the obvious thing themselves.

    It boils down to the same reason why when you search YouTube for some certain repair, you mostly find videos showing cockamamie ways of doing it. Plenty of other people needed to do the same repair but they just looked it up in the manual and did it and moved on, and that didn't feel worth making a video about. At the same time, the people who went in uninformed and floundered around and eventually did something they think is what fixed it, they're going to feel the world needs a video for that. Which other people will search for, and find, and be slowed down by.
     
  7. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    What year car and what exactly are the codes?

    I'm hearing "maybe relays stuck closed" and something about an interlock.

    P3140 isn't showing up much in the hybrid control or HV battery sections of the service manual.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  8. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Let me boot tech back up I saved . P3000 p3125 p3140
     
  9. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    This car is an hour away from me parked in a towing lot The guy that towed it off the road is telling me that it just died in the middle of the road. They brought it back to this towing lot some idiot decided to like pull half of the interior fuses out of the fuse box and throw them on the floor for like no reason when I asked him about it he's like just completely stupid just one of those kind of people so he put all the fuses back I looked make sure they're all in place everything in the car works except the HV system nothing looks like it's been taken apart so I take the front end off the battery off and while I'm trying to boot the car sitting in it pushing the brake and pushing the button I hear the relays click one too many times they open and close get sensed by the car and then immediately close and the red triangle comes on The codes above are displayed along with a couple other ones I think a p3009 etc If I clear the codes and read the codes a p3000 is sitting there The minute I push the start button with the brake pedal depressed trying to ready the car the ready light flashes multiple times the relays click is stated above and then the red triangle comes on and if I go back with my test meter I have voltage on the battery side of the relays and on the car side of the relays nothing zilch If I unplug both relays they have 12 volts applied to the relay both of them from the cars 12 volt system so the relays should be open and by the clicking noise I'm guessing they are able to open and close because that's what I'm hearing the clicking. Took the same exact battery dropped it in my car and drove 50 miles to go get lunch and goof off charged it all the way till it went green back to blue for a few minutes and then back to green and I was back at the towing lot dropped the battery back in the car Bam nothing so I'm pretty sure it's not in the battery because I went driving with it and had no problems in my fairly decent condition 07 car that everything works in so now before I go ripping up the floor and taking metal panels off the floor to look for this ILK wire or whatever's going on down here The car underneath the carpet and what have you is extremely clean no water's been taken on no dirts down there nothing under the hood of the car looks like a 214,000 mi car it does not look like the inverters been played with the lids been lifted put on incorrectly none of that but I guess I need to take a look just for haha's. Personally I don't see the interest in getting the car running It's a real not looker kind of a piece of poop I don't know after getting one of the other cars running that's similar I told the dude well I'm done what I can do here and I got my free parts fixed my car when I got home all my lights are off car working perfectly. I was just trying to get a resolve on what this interlock business is that's holding the red triangle on this particular chassis that's all and I noticed that in wherever I look actually on the web I don't ever see a resolve for a generation 2 interlock code which I think is the p-3140 but oh well and in every thread about this no one ever comes back and says what they did but yet every other thread about everything else even some months later people come back and oh yeah by the way we replaced this this and that we had to look for two months whatever the case but for this particular thing nobody's ever replacing anything or done anything it either just went away or they got bored with diagnostics or I don't know also on the MFD obviously the little car is red the inverter pump is pumping away the AM2 fuse is good I can see plenty of movement in the inverter coolant tank everything else with the engine and whatnot looks relatively good spark plugs are clean all that sort of thing doesn't really make a lot of sense really but for some reason something has happened somewhere in the HV system that the car doesn't like and it shut it down I guess No voltages moving from those relays when the car is completely booted up or trying to boot up and a red triangles on. And the relays are zero volts on the car side of those relays and they are energized so I guess what I'm trying to do is understand how can the relays be energized but yet they are closed and voltage can't move so the car is not turning off the 12 volt supply to those high voltage relays so how are they off I don't think they're broken No they can't be because the battery went in my car and we drove 50 miles and now the car battery is back in the original car we're trying to just start it All I wanted to do is start and then I'm walking away I don't care if the car moves I guess now I don't care if it does anything it was just I was interested to know and what the problem was and what other people have done for the last 23 years this can't be an isolated incident nothing on a car is an isolated incident except when you're putting the stereo in and you screw up or something along those lines.
     
  10. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    There is also a safety relay mounted to the driver side of the inverter. If I remember correctly, it's part of the collision safety systems, and will open the main relays in the HV battery if a collision sensor is activated. I did find a bad one a few years ago in a 2008 that prevented the HV battery from going online.

    Keep in mind that a relay isn't going to close its contacts just because it has 12v at its coil supply side. It also needs to have a return path for the current through the coil. No return path (ie no ground) and current can't flow so the coil doesn't make a magnetic field and the relay contacts won't close.

    Just like a 12v battery. If I connect the (+) lead to the car, but not the (-), I can measure 12v if I put my meter leads on the underhood jump point and on the battery (-) terminal, but it's still useless if I don't connect the (-) terminal to the car body.
     
    #10 TMR-JWAP, Feb 29, 2024
    Last edited: Feb 29, 2024
  11. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yeah this car's an hour away I have to take some stuff back over to this tow lot and I will look at the inverter and the stuff forward of the HV battery one more time. But the guy has like six other cars and I'm like man just take me to the other lot where the six other cars are five of those are probably start and run literally by walking up and doing the right things they'll just fire right up that's just my experience with most of these things so far usually they wind up in these places because well people aren't thinking or they're just disgusted.
     
  12. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    P3140, in the P3 "jointly defined" range, is the code Toyota used for the HV safety interlock circuit in the gen 1 Prius, probably because SAE had not yet defined the P0A0D "High Voltage System Interlock Circuit High" code in the P0 standardized range.

    Prii after gen 1 use the P0A0D standardized code instead, meaning the same thing. P3140 is in the "hybrid vehicle control system" section of the gen 1 repair manual.

    I think Tombukt2 is talking about a gen 1 here. It continues an earlier thread.

    The interlock circuit in gen 1 includes the battery service plug and interlock contacts under the two cable-connector covers for the MG1 and MG2 cables at the inverter.

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I'm working on a generation one with the interlock issue with the old type inverter where the interlock is like on the right side of the inverter when standing in front of the car but I think it's attached to the inverter It's got like the little pins I think that are under the lid of a generation two under the lid of this round thing. And I'm working on a generation two which has the p code just read out above 3000 3145. Both cars the relays click too many times and stay closed or not moving power from the battery to the wires that go up to the inverter The relays have the 12 volts on them whether they're supposed to be open or closed I would hope open meaning power is moving to the front of the car both of these cars the relays have power supplied to them but the power is not moving to the second point on the relay to get to the front of the car and will not do so The cars are very clean and look like nothing has really gone. The Gen 2 stopped in the middle of the road I guess and was towed away That's why these people have it at this towing lot and the generation one they've had running and drove 10 or 15 mi and their words went into the limp home mode and now it's interlocked out The generation one somebody's played with the inverter maybe they just crushed the pins for the interlock when they were supposedly installing the inverter I have to take it apart to look. The generation 2 I have not looked at the inverter at all even if I take the wires that run up to the front of the car off the battery in the back of the generation 2 and try to boot the car up still an interlock problem power won't leave the battery or move to the terminals where it could leave the battery because it's locked out for some reason so at some point when I go back up there I'll be looking for the ILK wire or what the heck ever it is and see what I can see. I just find it funny that in either of these cases I see where no one has done anything except come and talk about having these codes being interlocked out and then everything ends no stories about pulling up the plate in the floorboard and finding rat chewed wires or I don't even know what else bare wires touching the frame of the car or touching that metal lid causing all this problem a relay going bad something. And other vehicles unimagining their interlock relays which like the relays in the back that the Toyota software is telling me are stuck closed I would think there is a relay somewhere that controls that situation anyway no big deal we'll either get it or the car is not worthy of it I guess I wouldn't fix either of these cars I'm not sure what they're going to do with them if they do get them fixed.
     
  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    You can hope all you want for 'open' to mean that, but it doesn't. 'open' and 'closed' are standard electrical terms for switches and relays since forever. Closed means on and carrying current, open means off and breaking the circuit.
     
  15. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Well then they're open and breaking the circuit they click when the car is initially turned on so I believe they can work I haven't had an assistant to be able to stand there with the test leads on the output side of the relays to see if when they're clicking and hunting they're really doing that and then the code pops up for the positive and negative relays are stuck closed I think is what the code said and well yeah I guess they are because the interlock is making them that way or something
     
  16. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    That's why this thread is in the Gen2 forums (not the Gen1 subforum) and has "generation 2" in the title.

    There are times when it seems like there is no point in trying to respond if the author can't be bothered to post the correct information.

    Me, I'm too lazy to go through a 80 or 90 line post then stop part way through to get out my ouija board to try and figure out what he actually means (vs what he said).

    good luck

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  17. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I am working on a generation one with the interlock code and I'm also working on a generation two with the codes posted in this thread p3000 try to boot the car and then have $3000 3145 and the code for each of the relays being welded shut or closed shut or not opening or whatever it is that they're not doing moving power to the outside terminals on the relay even though they're energized so something up the line is telling the car not to send high voltage to front or such on both cars 02.. 05.... Gen2 and a 2.
     
  18. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    P3145 seems like another code that isn't in the gen 2 repair manual anywhere. In the gen 1 manual it's about the vehicle speed signal from the combination meter not reaching the HV ECU for cruise control. It's gone in the gen 2 manual and P0500 is used there for the same thing. Looks like another case of Toyota rolling their own P3 code for gen 1 and then later using an SAE standard P0 code that means the same thing.

    If an NO relay doesn't move power when energized, it's busted, or the power isn't there to be moved for some reason. There isn't any other way the car gets told not to send high voltage—that's what it uses the relays for.

    It's often the case that the 'last mile' of problem diagnosis calls for falling back on a meter and basic electrical knowledge,
     
  19. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Yes. The battery and relays and battery ECU work fine in another Gen 2 ..So it's the chassis.