Is Project Lithium / Nexcell a scam battery?

Hey @Grit There's not such thing as a commercially available battery that won't get damaged from a high amp recharge in sub-freezing temperatures.

Low amp discharge is one thing, but recharge is way more problematic, which is why numerous people on PriusChat with NiMH have reported 20mpg and car running with almost all engine power in super extreme cold weather because the BMS won't let you use the battery very much in weather like that.

Meanwhile, LifePo4 was considered a huge advancement in sub-freezing discharge compared to other chemistries when it first came on the scene and now the next transition to Lithium Titanate (LTO) is going to vastly improve that with an operating temperature range -35℃-70℃.

And most of all keep in mind we're in the earliest of early days when it comes to high voltage batteries powering vehicles, very much like the days when you had a crank start engine before fuel injection, before ECU's, before just about everything...

In years to come you will see EV manufacturers follow in Tesla's footsteps with much more advanced preheating and pack pressurization systems because the performance of battery chemistry goes way, way up when you optimize for temp, humidity, etc...

 

You can't beat me at my own word salad game man...but nice try. That was funny.

 

Somehow the younger generation, I believe, would never have made it in online forums between 1997 and 2009...

 

Buds? lol Couldn't be farther from the Truth after I sent that Huckleberry down the river.

 

I still stand by this statement, I hate the guy in every way imaginable for his business practices and I think he could use the raw talent doing better for people. I threw him the bone, but in the end...had to give him the boot.

 

You're talking about yourself I suppose in that first paragraph, because the science shows I was correct on brakes.
Factory Nickel OEM packs are in the same price range as Nexcell lithium at the moment, they weigh 35 lbs-40 lbs heavier last just as long, and you get 8-10 mpg less. What I don't get is spending that same amount for a Greenbean w/"lifetime" warranty that will fail 4 times in 2 years.

 

What science is that? You have yet to post anything of significance other than "trust me" "I've tested a trillion Prii with techstream". How hard can it be to explain it and show some data? Explain WHY you believe this happens, what evidence you've seen on a techstream screen... A link to any of "the information all over the internet" about how brake pads can kill an HV battery. When I search for that, Google doesn't give me a damn thing, but I'd love to read about it. Maybe you have the simon says wording for the search.

Are we asking too much?

 

I pretty much destroyed you on the brake pad thickness issue, try again Mr. Libel

 

bisco posed a simple question with a simple open-book answer. BrianStranded gave the correct answer, V Sport was mistaken.

Destruction not confirmed.

Credit shared by bisco's set and Stranded's spike.

 

you DEFINITELY are not the moral end all say-so either. I've caught you many times arm chairing and assuming things. See again, the calipers...1mm is your weener size and metal on metal. 2-3mm is danger zone and clearly obvious. Stop gaslighting. Try again.

 

Ummm.....you're so wrong. You're using a generic pad gauge tool to make this call? Those are great for quick looks at ICE cars. I'm losing faith in you. Toyota clearly states in the Gen 2 Prius repair manual 1.0 mm pad thickness is where replacement is required. IDK about other Gens, because they're not my thing.

Would I wait till they reach 1mm before replacing them? Not likely, but the number is Toyota's, not mine.

Directly from the repair manual for front disc brakes:

INSPECT PAD LINING THICKNESS
(a) Using a ruler, measure the pad lining thickness.
Standard thickness:
11.0 mm (0.433 in.)
Minimum thickness:
1.0 mm (0.039 in.)
HINT:
If the disc brake pad thickness is at the minimum or
less, replace the disc brake pad.

Directly from the repair manual for rear drum brakes:

INSPECT REAR DRUM BRAKE SHOE LINING
THICKNESS
(a) Using a ruler, measure the thickness of the shoe
lining.
Standard thickness:
4.0 mm (0.157 in.)
Minimum thickness:
1.0 mm (0.039in.)
If the lining thickness is at the minimum thickness or
less, or if there is severe or uneven wear, replace
the brake shoe.

 

Amazon is best because of it’s prices. Those reviews can be….

Buy an OEM pack, but don’t try to sneak in it is not a good product. Nice try….

 

Hybrid Pit hires you? I’m reluctant to be a customer. What does a hot dog have anything to do with brakes. What does “breaks” have anything to do with brakes…

 

I see, Nexcell no engineering, not good enough. Toyota engineering, not good enough. Hmmm…

 

Whether that's true or not—and so far you've linked exactly as many examples as you have of the "science" "proving" your other claims—it hardly matters to a post that called for nothing but quoting bisco, and Brian, and you.

You keep saying that. If I had an instrument that couldn't tell the difference between a millimeter of friction material and bare metal, I'd replace it.

 

Maybe if you pulled your head out of the service manual and actually worked on cars and saw things for your own eyes and touched them with your hands you would understand things a bit differently. Equating to the real world, there's book smarts and street smarts. They are not tantamount to one another.

 

Who said that? Who is to say this account hasn't been hacked and this is Jimmy Nuetron you're talking to? Certainly there is enough proof the original owner of this account had upset Duwayne enough to give him motive to do so. Or one of said company's disgruntled customers bamboozling you? You would have to disprove that to make such a statement now wouldn't you?

 

At least they are hands on real world experience claims, unlike a guy who sits at home sifting through others' hard work and examples and reposting "fixes" all day like it was himself that did the work and found out and claimed propriety to them.