Prius 2010 118k miles (Master brake Cylinder and brake booster assembly)

yes, it is very common, and toyota actually extended the warranty to 10 years i think. check on that in case it's 15.
if not, see if you can find a mech who might do it, i think the parts are around $1,200., you can call around to other dealers too, for competitive pricing.
hard to see about the pads and rotors, they might just be scamming you, idk.

 

10 year 150k miles. Need to buy new parts selected by vin to ensure it works at all. Requires Toyota Techstream or one of a few high end scanners to calibrate and bleed. Lots of labor so don’t do it twice.

 

Yes, mine went out around that mileage. Dealer wanted $3,000. I ended up buying the part used from eBay and installed it myself for around $200. There was a good in-depth video of the install on YouTube that made the process a lot easier for a first timer.

 

What were these costs? Brake fluid?

 

Good video:

(Cautionary note at 22.40 about the need for "very good scan tool", without which you shouldn't attempt this.)

 

Raw text from OCR of above:

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Sorico Name

Price



E 6 of 6 TOZDIAG: ENGINE DIGNOSTIC

$0.00



[Primary): 08TOZDROP2: DROP APPT

$0.00



[Primary): 08TOZ9319: 9319 TOYOTA APPT

$0.00



[Primary): 00TOZMPI: MULTIPOINT VEH INSP

$0.00



[Primary): 00TOZFMI : FLOORMAT INSPECT

50.00



(Other): 1.0 DIAG ABS AND BRAKE LIGHT

$170.98

Assembly

[Other): C1391 TSB:0079-18; P&A Brake Booster Assembly With Master Cylinder Brake Booster Pump

$3811.68



Brake Job - Front (Replace Pads and Rotors): DO NOT REC. RESURFACE DUE TO RUST BUILD UP

$502.60



Oil Change: DUE FOR OIL CHANGE

$35.00



Printed on January 12, 2024

Quote expires on February 11, 2024

Subtotal $4520.26

$90.00

Shop Charges 5126.20

Total $4736.51

VOTE

 

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It's been my experience that nobody is going to care for my car as much as I do - especially since it's a Prius. After the dealer screwed up a bearing change, I learned to do it on my own. I wouldn't hesitate to do the brakes on any of my own vehicles.

What they're asking seems really high to me. I've never changed out a master cylinder, on any of the cars I've owned (going back to the mid-1970s). I'm sure there are times when these fail, but it's not been my experience. I've done the brakes on most of my other cars though. That's where I'd be looking.

I'd at least pull the wheels off, and take a quick look at the pads and rotors, and calipers. Brake wear depends a lot on what part of the country you live in, what kind of driving you do, and how you drive. Even if you end up taking it into a mechanic, look at at least one of the front, and depending on what you see, one of the rear.

All this changes if you have squeals, shimmy, grabs, grinding noises, or a mushy pedal.

 

Check the system for leaks. If the fluid is low, it's gotta be going somewhere. Look for wet/oily areas on and around the brake lines, around the master cylinder, slave cylinders, brake lines, and brake line connections. Of course, recent brake system work could also make for some wet/oily looking areas.

 

It's normal for brake fluid level in the reservoir to drop as pads wear. Put new pads in, and it goes up. Mechanic dismissed codes, did a brake service, topped up fluid. If you've got something going bad in those two brake-related lumps on the firewall (won't even try to name them) a brake fluid top up won't "heal" them.

 

A mirage, I suspect.