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Can a water pump go bad with no check engine light?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by PriusTime, Dec 30, 2023.

  1. PriusTime

    PriusTime Junior Member

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    2013 Prius with 215k. Symptoms: No heat from vents and engine coolant reservoir was found to be low. Occasionally the high coolant temp red warning light may show on dash then go away. I find that refilling the coolant reservoir resolves the issue for a while, but after a few hundred more miles the coolant level is low again and the no heat/overheating warning light on the dash may come on again. The top of the coolant reservoir and area around is wet with coolant, I am thinking it is somehow overpressurizing the reservoir and spraying out from under the cap. There doesn't appear to be any leaks at the hoses or reservoir itself other than spraying out from the cap. I have already replaced the cap and the same problem happens.

    I am not getting any CEL or codes coming up with my code scanner. I am thinking it might be the water pump failing. Has anybody else had a water pump fail but no codes show from it? I thought I'd be seeing the P261B code which would make this an easy diagnosis but I don't want to just buy a pump if it's not causing the issue.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Well you're in that engine problematic mileage and time head gasket blah blah blah may not want to hear all that but you're right about where this happens so there's always that and you're losing coolant and you don't see it on the ground so there's always that so where is it going into the engine.
     
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  3. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Likely your head gasket is leaking.
    And/or you have some air in the system.
    If the water pump is not working correctly, it will cause the engine to overheat,
    and allowing it to fill and overflow out of the coolant tank.

    You need a scanner to test the waterpump to see what the rpm is.


     
  4. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    Yes, the engine coolant pump can go bad without triggering the P261B trouble code like the symptoms you are describing. You should replace the pump ASAP.

    I'm just curious: Did you replace the engine coolant at the recommended intervals (at 100k, 150k, and 200k miles)?
     
    #4 Brian1954, Dec 30, 2023
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2023
  5. PriusTime

    PriusTime Junior Member

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    Unfortunately I did not change the coolant at the regular intervals. It still looks good and pink however I have probably added a half gallon or so over the past few months.

    I'm hoping it's not the head gasket. I would think that I'd be getting more frequent and longer lasting overheating warning lights before or after the head gasket fails. I have barely been warned of any overheating so far. Oil looks great with no signs of coolant contamination. I drove a lot over Christmas and didn't check the coolant level for about 800 miles so it seems to run great and no overheating unless I let the coolant get too low.

    What I'm thinking is the water pump is slowly/gradually failing, so not a bad enough failure yet to light a CEL but enough to cause these brief overtemps and loss of coolant through the reservoir cap. I have a new water pump on order and will replace that along with the thermostat and lower radiator hose while I'm in there. I'm also going to look into getting techstream so I can read the coolant pump speed. I looked into it about 10 years ago and it was very expensive and/or complicated back then.
     
  6. Eddie25

    Eddie25 Active Member

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    In theory just your water pump could be bad causing the temp to go up and causing the coolant to overflow at the reservoir. I don't think you "necessarily" have a bad head gasket. That being said, that's often the case for WHY head gaskets blow, so chances are you could be there. Either way if you intend to keep the car I don't think a water pump is a waste of money because it'd be recommended in almost every repair scenario now that you've had over heating instances.
     
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  7. Eddie25

    Eddie25 Active Member

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    General consensus seems to be to go with OEM or AISIN equivalent.
     
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  8. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    I agree with you. You will notice that the high temperature light will come on during periods of high throttle usage, and the light will go off as you reduce the throttle usage.

    FYI, the high temperature light comes on when the coolant reaches 120C (248F).
     
  9. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I like ASRDogman's suggestion to watch the pump RPM to see if there's an issue there or not. A head gasket issue would be enough on its own to explain the symptoms here, so stopping first to replace the water pump might just be a distraction, unless you first confirm it isn't working.
     
  10. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    This is what I wrote 4 days ago in a different thread:
     
  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    If you have a scan tool that shows the Engine and ECT data list, you can watch two RPMs: the RPM the ECM is telling the water pump to run at, and the actual RPM the water pump is doing.

    If the water pump is in fact struggling to turn the RPM being asked of it, then of course all theories of how that might contribute to overheating and coolant loss are on point.

    If it's happily sitting there doing what it's asked with no trouble, then replacing it just because somebody else's failing water pump could cause the same symptoms in somebody else's car might just use time that could be used pinning down what the issue is in this car.
     
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  12. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    If it runs fine when you have enough coolant, but over heats when it's low....
    Just think about that for a bit.... :whistle:

     
  13. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    When our generation 3 2013 persona went down this head gasket road we never had any overheating none at all car was running great No issues just the stumble and stutter and then all of a sudden the rod broke broke the back side of the engine the girdle etc was toast it was running fine right before that rod broke I mean running fine a little bit of noise and then snap I was running 50 miles an hour thing it never heated never shown any dash lights of anything just all of a sudden bam in the car had decent service history the two owners prior to me live next door to each other in the same town in Virginia bedroom community of DC and other than having a short rock driveway the car was driven to and from work on the highways it's life to that point that was very disappointing.
     
  14. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Maybe just use a Bluetooth OBD2 reader and car scanner app to monitor your engine temperature when you drive. Also losing coolant in a Gen3 is the first sign of early stage of head gasket failure which happens to all Gen3 on or before 200K miles, which is why putting a used gen4 engine in is the best solution because Gen3 also have premature piston ring failure.

    In the meantime regularly clean your EGR system which will help keep engine temperatures lower.
     
  15. PriusTime

    PriusTime Junior Member

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    Thanks for the input everyone. Even if it's not the water pump, I figure this one is beyond its life expectancy anyways so I'll start with that when it arrives and go from there. My Techstream cable should arrive before the water pump so hopefully in a few days I can play around with it and see how the current pump is working and responding to its demanded speed. In the meantime my basic OBD scanner is showing coolant temps holding steady at 175-190F while driving through town and cruising on the highway. No problems so far with full coolant.
     
    #15 PriusTime, Dec 30, 2023
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2023
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  16. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    My latest theory is the heat in the cylinder between #1 & #2 where the headgasket fails is because when the engine is turned off in a very specific position that spot is hotter than boiling and once enough heat damage has weakened the gasket in that spot it can pull steam, which makes it bigger, which eventually leads to coolant in the cylinder and eventually fatigue in the piston rod causing it to bend, then fail. I bet if you had a way to get a thermal camera on that area when then engine is hot just after shut down you'd see a hot spot there.

    Of course maybe @ChapmanF would like to dispel my latest theory, which he usually does quite well most of the time.
     
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk EGR Fanatic

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    There’s also the one thing that’s asymmetrical on the intake manifold: EGR entry.

    I’d second water pump replacement, they seem to go any time after 150k; couple with belated coolant change?
     
  18. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I'd second checking the water pump, right away, to decide whether it is a current problem or not.

    I'd take Mendel's suggestion, about replacing it preventively "any time after 150k" as a good idea for the next time you are doing preventive maintenance.

    At the moment, as there are active symptoms of something, you are in a corrective maintenance situation, where the priority tasks are identifying and correcting a current problem.

    So if you confirm a water pump problem, definitely swap the pump. Or if there's a head gasket problem, you'll certainly have enough other stuff apart to swap the pump preventively at the same time. But otherwise, it wouldn't be my choice to spend time on swapping the pump that hasn't been spent on finding the problem yet.
     
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  19. Eddie25

    Eddie25 Active Member

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    Is that for sure the case? Couldn't it be overheating when coolant level is OK and then expelling coolant out the reservoir (which it's seems to be doing) making it seem like it was low?

    In regards to checking a water pumps RPM readings, could a pump with bad impellor show proper RPM command and rotation, but still not be allowing proper coolant flow? I seem to recall impellor failure as a failure mode in these, but I could be mistaken.
     
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  20. PriusTime

    PriusTime Junior Member

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    Well the cable came over night and I got Techstream partially working today. I keep getting errors when trying to view live data or command the coolant pump to operate but I was able to connect to the car and see that it had a code stored: P148F: Engine Coolant Pump Over Revolution. Hoping this is good news pointing to pump failure and no head gasket damage yet. I'm not sure why this code wouldn't light up the MIL? I'll still try working with Techstream some more and see if I can get the live data working.
     
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