Wheel noise, 230k, tried balancing, tires look good

Ok since this forum I cant upload photos, here are links to the youtube videos

https://youtube.com/shorts/wbD8LdMSrZI?si=dUtYcPtvCW9eCwn7

https://youtube.com/shorts/f5ty3usHczI?si=JRC3fv49rRP_6yPo

Observations: the entire side wall came out, look at how on the second video I am spinning the wheel, you can see a deformation in the entire structure of the tire, right? meaning:

Tire noise/wobbling sound/ is the ENTIRE TIRE out of whack, the infrastructure of the tire, look at the rip of its frame (the metal)

Woah, usually when I get a flat, I do surgery right there on the spot and inflate the tire

this is way different, It has happened to me before in a semi that had dry rot, they sat for i think 8 years, it was a front right steer

Also, you can see the tread is still fine, but the inside had been out of line

So, when I am driving, the infrastructure broke down slowly and became off center,

that explains the balancing of the tires and it not getting any better (it actually got worse)

Before today, I thought this only happens to dry rot tires,

explanation: the tire is like a basket woven perfectly, the bumps, the slowing down, all of it, chips away at the wholeness of the basket

Then, once a small part is off in the integrity of the weaves, then you will get that wobble/howling/uneveness/etc

Then you will have what you see in those videos. wow

 

Update:

Ok I read another prius chat thread saying:

Yes its fine go with the 205 50 17, it is ok, not a big deal, works out fine

sorry for bugging yall

 

Update on the sticky brake situation:

I am still rereading this instruction to possibly have to do it

What I have done:

Whenever I bled the brakes, I put big 4x4 on the brake pedal pushing it hard

Then I open 8 mm bleeder valve

Let it come out, then i close the valve

Then, I take out the 4x4 on the brake pedal, and I remember having to manually move the pedal back to original place, meaning:

I must've created a vacuum situation, where the center point for the pedal is brakes engaged

1st attempt at remedy did not work: I took off the top of the brake fluid holder and hit the brake a few times, thinking:

"Maybe that top cap is keeping the system holding a vacuum and taking off the top cap MIGHT neutralize the system"

Nope, it is in the line,

Then today finally, I got under there and unscrewed the 8 mil bleeder, left the pedal alone in the regular position, allowed the fluid to escape, a bit of it

My thoughts: in that line there was negative pressure/vacuum, I needed to open the bleed valve with the pedal in the non engaged position.

Tomorrow, I find out if it is the end of the sticky brake situation...

 

Update on the sticky brake situation:

Still sticking, I am having to manually pull the brake pedal back with the left foot while driving

Assistant: no assistant because people are too expensive nowadays

plan for tonight: open up that 8 mm bleeder valve and let MORE fluid come out

Maybe I did not let enough come out

Yes, i will watch that video and see if there is a solution

 

Ok yes I watched the youtube video, the two tasks I did not do:

1. put the car in invalid mode, I do not see how this would matter

2. They bled all four sides, I only bled the front left (where I was tinkering in that area)

Could it be that I have to go and bleed all four valves because:

I created a vacuum in the system with the way I did it originally, and that vacuum is spread to all the lines

So when I bled the front left, it still was not enough because the vacuum spread to the whole system, and now I need to bleed all of them

Plan for tonight:

Get under the car, open up all four valves on all four wheels without hitting the brake pedal

Let enough fluid from all four sides come out

Maybe that will equalize the system to not have the brake engaged as the default state...

 

I see the link and read the first few posts:

the plan for tonight: get the car in invalid mode (dont forget to set parking brake)

Then start from the front right, and go counter clockwise

Open each valve until you see fluid come out (not just a bit, alot)

Since I do not have helper, I will push the brake and pump it up, then go get under the car and open up the valve, do each one, then I'll report back tomorrow

 

Yes, I am comprehending

The spring that pushes the pedal back is fine

The way it is acting, I feel like some air would help (i know it wouldnt)

it feels the normal state for it is engaged

I'll try to do the 4 wheel bleeding like instructed by mendel, but if that doesnt work I will escalate the response

I think I might have damaged the caliper when engaging the brake when it was not on the rotor

First thing first, I do the bleed on the 4 wheels, then i report back

 

You're instructing to do this idea when bleeding the brakes?

but the pedal goes back to its natural state (non engaged) when it is released

I will not speculate or think anything else until:

I at least go through the proper bleeding method,

then if that fails, i entertain and do another idea

 

Oh I see what you mean, ok I will explain my observations:

When I am bleeding the brake: the pedal goes back to normal position

During driving: I slow down to a stop light, at this point, pedal down a bit, engaging the brakes a bit, then when I have to go forward, thats when i will use the left foot to completely disengage the brake

Finally now, I am about to go under the car and try to get this resolved

The past few times bleeding the brakes, I could NOT get them to stick while testing in small area

Then the next day, when I go out and do high speed/hard stopping, then the sticking comes back...

Thanks for the advice and yalls kindness

 

Yes I am listening, and if after I get it under it and try one more time by myself, then I will have someone bleed the brakes while I go under it and open the valves

 

Most people when bleeding the brakes, are looking to get air out of the lines

That symptom: I have to hit the brakes really hard and it feels squishy even with the pedal fully down

My situation feels the opposite, it feels like its default position is engaged

I'll stay in touch and go try to solve it for a couple hours

My first task:

Get under it, open each valve (in order of what we established) until I see fluid coming out, without hitting the brake pedal

Then go out on test run and see if she still sticking

If still sticking: pump the brakes, get under it and then open each valve...