Techstream for newbies after replacing ABS Master Cylinder and Pump Assembly

You need somebody with a capable scanner today that's a lot of people playing armchair mechanic from their living room some maybe even here on this list You don't necessarily need tech but if you want to buy the dongle and the nonsense to make it all work well there's always that there's also a device called an a u t e l. Mini shops and people today have these capable scanners I'm sure many people in Texas have them so I don't necessarily say you need to go to a full-long shop that's charging $120 an hour which is probably the rates in Texas somebody here may come along from Texas and offer something If I was closer you could come right here and use the whole area that I have and play all the games you want with the car but Texas is about 19 hours from me I'm in North Carolina some guys are pretty cool and will help you get straight others are too busy what have you I can do whatever I want. Hopefully somebody from the your area in Texas which doesn't say in your profile Texas is a big state usually if you put your ZIP code in your profile other people like same similar areas can well notice you I guess but with security being what it is and folks covering license plates and all that you know maybe that's not a thing. Anyway good luck It's not a huge problem possibly he just need to get the car to a capable scanner which should not cost $350 with a few cars that I have bled have taken about 30 minutes to be honest about it I have text dream right here on a CF-13 toughbook from a dealer. So there's always that so you see how the industry has changed now you get quoted flat rate prices no matter what anything takes of this 30 minute break bleeding job say 45 minutes and they have a lift and everything to put the car on so for that 45 minute or an hour break bleeding job they're charging you $350 $380 295 whatever. For that money you could buy autel last model scanner and own it bleed your brakes and have the scanner for the rest of you in the car's life which could be very long but generally college kids when they get out and start making money you'll be in a new car or another car before you know it so maybe that's not a thing.

 

You only paid $1200 for those parts? THATS a Deal!

You need to take it back to the place that did the work, and tell them to take it to
Toyota and he needs to PAY them to finish the job correctly! What he did was leave you
with a huge liability. When the brakes fail and you cause a wreck, you'll wish you were as broke
as you are now.
And you need to report him to your state's Attornery General! If he couldn't do the whole job
correctly and safely, he should not have done any of it!

You can search online for the closest hybrid tech. It might be less than what Toyota asks.

I can understand where they don't want to touch anything someone else did because when they do,
they become responsible for that work.

 

And these two pieces were new Toyota parts or remanufactured Toyota parts through Toyota? That is a pretty good price I thought they were usually about 748 a piece.

 

Good call on getting new OEM parts. Now you only need to bleed the brakes using Techstream, but this is not a software-only process, and will not be free if you don't already have access to the following equipment:

1. Windows laptop with Techstream
2. passthrough cable, to connect your laptop to the car
3. jack stands, to support the car with all 4 wheels removed so that you have access to the bleeder screws
4. 8 mm and 10 mm wrenches, to open the bleeder screws
5. ¼" ID vinyl tubing and empty gallon jar, to collect excess brake fluid
6. battery charger, to keep the 12 V battery charged while it repeatedly turns the accumulator pump on and off
7. friend, to depress the brake pedal as required while you crack open and close the bleeder screws
8. 21 mm deep well socket
   
9. torque wrench capable of measuring 76 ft-lb, to torque the lug nuts back on when you reinstall the wheels

It is ultimately your decision whether you invest in this, or just pay someone to perform whatever maintenance may be required, now and in the future.

 

I've not found it difficult to reach the bleeders with the car on the ground and the tires on.

It's worth doing a practice run to figure out where to slither and how to reach. Once you start the process, you're effectively on the clock; you need to get through it all while the 12 volt battery holds up, so you don't want to be figuring things out then. (For the same reason, if you're doing the full bleed, you want the windshield wipers and cowl already off for access to the stroke simulator bleeder, so you don't spend time on that.)

 

I think "technically" you can access the bleed screws with the wheels on, cart on the ground, but not sure I'd want to; it would be a pain.

Missed chap's response. Any yeah, a lot easier with wheels off.

 

Wow that's pretty wild It didn't take nearly that long on the generation too once I had the thing on and the main line connected that feeds the actuator and let it start bleeding out of the fittings from bottom to top tightening everything up from then on it was about I don't know like 17 minutes or something

 

Good reply. If you don’t have a PC that will run Techstream that cost and the trouble getting the software installed (an often difficult process on the unlicensed hack eBay versions) might make $350 well worth it, especially as a person with “zero knowledge about cars” who would have to buy tools, charger and jackstands.

The Techstream app has a procedure you follow. The procedure is in the ABS/ESP/VDC tab using UTILITIES.

Normally you will remove the windshield wipers and mounting (cowl) to access the master cylinder.

This video from time 1:00-5:00 describes that procedure. The egr part is not needed for your purposes.

 

For the Gen 3 that seems to be a bang up price for the two pieces I thought they were more like I said 7:40 a piece or something like that some more like 1500 but that's a good lick I think. Maybe some of my biking people are in Houston from the Aprilia list those are Italian motorcycles that I deal with they have a big track down in Texas in New Braunfels.

 

You have that and C1345?

C1345 is about the linear solenoid offset learning. That can't happen until the C1451 is gone. You make C1451 go away by going through the brake bleed procedure. The longer bleed procedure does include the solenoid offset learning at the end, so it is likely to make both codes go away. There is also a separate solenoid offset learning procedure you can run if the C1345 is still around, which only happens if for some reason the learning business didn't go quite right when it happened as part of the bleed sequence.

 

I just replaced both the master cylinder & booster pump on the 2010.
https://toyotaparts.ourismantoyotaofrichmond.com/oem-parts/toyota-brake-master-cylinder-4705047140
brake master cylinder 47050-47140 - $546.93
https://toyotaparts.ourismantoyotaofrichmond.com/oem-parts/toyota-booster-assembly-gasket-4478502060
booster gasket 44785-02060 - $4.70
https://toyotaparts.ourismantoyotaofrichmond.com/oem-parts/toyota-pump-assembly-brake-booster-4707047060
pump assembly brake booster 47070-47060 - $533.59
With tax & shipping it was ~1200

I have Techstream & a cheap Mini-VCI J2534 cable which connects to Prius & (mostly) works.
The brake bleed procedure went well bleeding the rear then front.
Next was "Perform the Stroke Simulator Air Bleeding" which I could never complete.
I always got "Air Bleeding has failed" within 5-15 seconds.
I ended up depressing the brake petal just before I got the failed message & holding the brake petal depressed & bleed the "Stroke Simulator" one time. I would restart the procedure & skip to the "Stroke Simulator" section & repeat. I did this ~5 times. After the first time I do not remember seeing another air bubble.

Then (in Techstream) I went into "ECB Utility" & performed the three items listed:
ECB Invalid
Zero Down
Linear Valve Offset
Eventually all the codes disappeared. I'm not sure exactly in what order I performed all these steps.

The only step that I was not able to perform was the second "front" bleed that would come after performing the Stroke Simulator Air Bleed.
The Prius performs like new again & the brakes are perfect as far as I can tell. Put 200mi on Prius so far with no problems.

 

That's basically what happened sometime with some of my generation twos but the car works perfectly and the lights are off so screw all the dumb mess. And that ends the project I think sometimes some of these things are just electronic glitches whatever If the thing is working and there's nothing wrong and there's no lights and no codes there's no bush to beat essentially.

 

2011 Toyota Prius- had to replace the brake booster pump assembly and master cylinder which we did ourselves. The brakes were bled manually after the parts were replaced because we did not know we needed Techstream. At this point we still don't have ABS function. Is it possible that pins inside the actuator "locked up" because the brakes were bled manually instead of electronically so we took it to the dealer who told us that Tech stream isn't working because some Pins inside locked up? If so is there any way around this electronically or at all? These are the codes that came up after the manual bleed.
C1203, C1345, C1451

 

Techstream is needed after replacing the booster & master cylinder.

Techstream is the software that "talks" to the Prius. Techstream appears to be functioning & is reporting trouble codes "C1203, C1345, C1451".

In this thread PC member ChapmanF has described each of your trouble codes.
Request instruction to clear C1203 C1451 C1345 with techstream | PriusChat

C1203 indicates "the brake ECU isn't able to talk to the ECM".
This is the first thing to repair.
Possibly the large connector on the master cylinder is not fully seated properly?
Pins bent or broken wire - could be anything.
This may be what the dealer was referring to with "some Pins inside locked up".
Until this code is cleared (C1203) even the dealer can not bleed the brakes.

After the C1203 code is cleared the other codes will clear after doing the normal Techstream brake bleed procedure.
My notes above describe the general steps.
Good Luck!

 

The sliding locking mechanism that allows the plugs to come undone has to be installed and then pushed in guiding the plug in to the lock position so maybe you'll be unplugging this plug again after removing whatever to have a look I guess it's possible if somebody got antsy while they were doing the job they could possibly try to force the plug which may have caused the problem these are new parts I take it? You know they cost about $1,200 for the pair five and some change for each piece You did change them both? You had predominantly the right tools for the job? Not including the tech software .

 

That's kind of a loose take on what C1203 means. What the code means is this:



which is to say, it can communicate with other ECUs in the car, but it doesn't like what it is hearing from them. You can get the code, for example, if you install a brake actuator/skid ECU, built for one destination market, into a car where some other ECUs are reporting a different destination market. The manual suggests it compares its own notes with the power management control ECU's, the main body ECU's, and the yaw/acceleration sensor's.

So that can be a headache if that happens, because it would mean going out again and buying a part that matches the car this time.

But there is also this:



and indeed, we've seen plenty of that on PriusChat, where it's scary to see that code but then somebody gets through the linear solenoid learning routine and it goes away.