Vsc, ABS ((!)) lights on with Red triangle

Specifically, which trouble codes do you think are saying that you have a bad abs actuator?

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Trouble codes can't tell you straight off what's causing the problem. An ECU can only tell you things it is able to notice, and it's up to you to figure out why. In this car, the brake ECU has noticed out of range voltage arriving at the ECU, and power not arriving simultaneously at the two redundant processors in the ECU. I can't tell you why it is noticing those things; somebody would have to do the troubleshooting in the repair manual for those codes. But it doesn't sound like anything where the actuator would be my first guess.

 

The trouble code that I would try to fix first is P0AA6.

Also, put a charger on the 12v battery to make sure it is fully charged.

How many miles on the car?

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For your own safety, I advise that you not work on the HV battery by yourself. Based on reading your other posts on this forum, I do not think you have the knowledge or tools to do the job.

New bus bars most likely will not fix trouble code P0AA6. There is the possibility that you make the HV battery worse rather then better by working on it yourself. What will you do if you try removing the nuts on the bus bars and the terminal on the battery module snaps off? Can you afford two weeks of not being able to use your car while you work on the HV battery? Did you know that the nuts on the buss bars need to be torqued to a specific value when you reinstall them?

The car has 254k miles. It is time to replace the complete HV battery with a refurb battery ($1500 - $2000 installed price) or a new OEM battery ($3200 - $3800 installed by a dealership). Are you willing to spend this amount of money on your car? If not, it may be time to look for a replacement vehicle.

 

Also, if one is going to work on the P0AA6 code, it would be good to get access to a scan tool that can show the three-digit INF code that goes with that code. Some of the INF codes will not point to the battery at all:

 

Suppose you have an isolation failure somewhere in the car (that's the P0AA6), and you don't have the INF code for the P0AA6 so you don't know which region of the car the failure is in. You have one problem.

Now suppose you take apart your battery, just because, and you start doing work on it, like changing bus bars, and something goes wrong while you're doing it. Or, you don't notice anything going wrong while you're doing it, but you put it back together and then see another code, this time pointing to the battery.

Now you have two problems.

That's the usual reason I urge people to work on pinning down what the one problem is, first, before going and working on some maybe-it-is-maybe-it-isn't part of the car just because.

 

Somewhere in the world there is someone who has a scan tool you can either buy or rent or borrow or use to find out what the INF code is.

Also, if you haven't got the INF code, you can still work through the P0AA6 troubleshooting steps in the repair manual, just starting at the top as if you only had 526 and checking all the branches. Just takes longer, is all.

 

Get the Autel AP200. $40 on amazon + shipping when I checked last week. Can read codes and data on all systems in a Gen2 - including freezeframe data and INF codes.

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