Driver Side Engine Mount Transmission Mount. Has anyone replaced it?

I'm standing out here at the car now and it looks like you will undo the inverter twist it and try to lay it up on the valve cover over to that side You have one mount bolt that's right there at the edge of the inverter and then of course you'll have to move the coolant bottle for the inverter I think you'll be able to leave the brake reservoir sitting the computer that's right next to the two reservoirs I think can stay when the reservoir for the inverter is moved and the inverter is flipped and over towards the engine valve cover you'll have full access to the mount I would be shocked if this is seriously causing you lots of vibration or any vibration actually but you won't know that till you change it. I guess usually you can get a pry bar in between the engine transmission up against one of the big heater hose extensions or something and try to rock the engine it's pretty solidly mounted but some people are more sensitive to vibrations than others.

 

I'm standing out here at the car now and it looks like you will undo the inverter twist it and try to lay it up on the valve cover over to that side You have one mount bolt that's right there at the edge of the inverter and then of course you'll have to move the coolant bottle for the inverter I think you'll be able to leave the brake reservoir sitting the computer that's right next to the two reservoirs I think can stay when the reservoir for the inverter is moved and the inverter is flipped and over towards the engine valve cover you'll have full access to the mount I would be shocked if this is seriously causing you lots of vibration or any vibration actually but you won't know that till you change it. I guess usually you can get a pry bar in between the engine transmission up against one of the big heater hose extensions or something and try to rock the engine it's pretty solidly mounted but some people are more sensitive to vibrations than others.

 

What do you mean, vibrations based on RPM? Do you mean they only occur at a particular rpm, and if so which RPM range?

Or do you mean the vibrations get worse and worse as RPM increases?

Failing engine mounts don't really cause vibrations, and the driver's side mount in particular is only responsible for holding the engine up, not reacting to the torque of the engine (that is the back engine mount). What you describe doesn't sound like a bad engine mount to me so far.

 

OK, but is it vibrating based on engine RPM or speed? Those are two different things. One indicates a problem with the engine, and the other indicates a problem with the drivetrain or wheel bearing. It sounds like it's vehicle speed from your description. Engine mounts don't cause that, because the engine doesn't know what speed the car is moving at, especially in a CVT car where the RPM can vary greatly at any given speed.

Which bearings did your mechanic check? Noise/vibrations from the right front wheel area that increase with vehicle speed and increase during left hand turns is almost certainly either the front passenger wheel bearing or CV axle. (CV axles don't always click when they fail.) It could also be a bad tire - sometimes certain tires are as noisy as failing wheel bearings (and they can also be out of balance, causing vibrations at only highway speeds).

Honestly, I would start by rotating your front tires and seeing if the noise follows the tire. That's easy and free. Unless your mechanic already tried this.

 

@zephyrusaurai what's the miles?

 

If you’ve never cleaned EGR and intake manifold, you’re in the danger zone for head gasket failure. That could be the cause of your symptoms: coolant in the combustion chambers (especially after sitting overnight) hydro locks the engine.

coolant level stable?

 

160k is late in the day; I’d keep head gasket failure on the list of possibilities.

 

Notwithstanding that the HG is liable to start going at some point... did your mechanic spot any tears in the cv boots when he did wheel bearings? If he wasn't careful you can definitely damage boots while doing a wheel bearing. However, I would expect most mechanics to take pretty good care.

Based on what you've said, I think my next step would be replace the CV axle, especially if it has tears. However, this is what BMW owners call "the parts cannon." Not really sure, but if you really want to get this problem solved, that's what I would replace next. It's unlikely to strand you if that's the problem though, so if it was me I would probably wait until the problem gets worse and easier to identify.

 

Also, after I posted I thought of one more thing - if an engine mount bolt was physically loose it could cause a metallic clicking noise when getting on or off the gas. Tightening those is free!

 

I have been having almost exact same issue. These are the things I have done already, and I will tell toy in the end what I was told by Toyota mechanic in Grand rapids Michigan.

2912 Toyota prius plug-in 216k miles, I changed the front 2 struts assembly and back shocks, driver side CV axel, sway bar links. Lube the caliper pin again. First when I changed the struts the car immediately felt really smooth and great under braking but as you mention from hard stop to accelerate I kept hearing that clunk. Although I was also hearing the odd click noise so decided to change CV Axle and sway bar links. The clicking noise went away and I could feel the car traction being balanced and a tighten steering compared to really loose previously. The clunky noise has decreased but is still there. I did all the work myself and have worked on 4 Prius I have owned currently have 2 3rd gens . I had the car checked with 2 mechanics before doing all of this. None was able to pin point or replicate the issue unless I would make them sit with me and drive. They don't try to listen to car at initial acceleration only when it's in momentum. I changed struts and shocked because of sharp leaning and more bounce under braking. I have made 3 trips this year 1600 miles in 2 days each. I started noticing this noise started happening after my last trip. I was sure my Axle was gone within a year of last one replaced Go figure NAPA autos. I hope this one last longer its Autozone because I wanted to check and not keep pouring money on parts and labor.

Finally decided to give money to toyota $150 just to find the noise. In the end had to pay and do the same make the mechanic sit with me and drive just a few feet to replicate the noise.
This is what he said which I have been having an inclination to "Even though the transmission is not showing issues its a play in the transmission that seems like the likely cause. He apparently had checked everything else and also that I told him the things I had replaced. The only other things I feel could be making that noise which all mechanics have said no to is the control arm or the ball joint. I can understand why the transmission could be doing this if the Axle was bad and caused a play in the transaxle, it's just my theory. I have decided to live with this problem as since I changed all the other parts and the car is way smoother only at hard acceleration from stop it does that. Recently maybe I'm not noticing it anymore or its decreased a lot I'm not sure or maybe I have adjusted my driving style. I would suggest changing the CV axle and check sway bar links. If you wish change the control arm or the ball joint but do let me know. Thank you!

P.S if you take to Toyota maybe ask them to do alignment which I paid separately unfortunately and then get the mechanic to ride with you to create the noise will save you there charge and maybe get him to locate that noise.