Sequence at power on, Prius V not going to ready only shifts to neutral

Hello all,

My Prius V just had a transmission change (transmission shaft broke due to broken springs in the clutch/damper).

Long story short, I bought a tranny and clutch/damper, and my mechanic installed it.

Now it's throwing code P0335 same as before, but the difference is that before, I could hear some kind of noise, as if something is spinning on power up but obviously with a broken shaft, the engine can't spin

But not anymore now, so it seems to me that the same code shows up because the the crankshaft position sensor isn't even sending a signal to ECU, because the engine isn't even spinning.

So my question is: what's the initialization sequence? Is it like this?

*at power up, HV batt sends ~200V to inverter
*inverter produces 3 phase to MG2
*MG2 spins
*crankshaft sensor sends signal to ECU
*ECU says everything is fine
*now i can shift the gears

I know this sequence I summarized isn't everything but I am just trying to narrow down the issue to this code P0335, as to my analysis, the motor is not even initially spinning, as was before the tranny change.

Some of the things I've/we've done so far on top of the tranny/clutch damper change:

* new crankshaft position sensor
*boosted 12V battery, showing 13.7V, same issue
*my mechanic checked all connections, there's nothing seems out of ordinary
*I used Torque andoid app with Elm Bluetooth to see if the HV battery is dead, and it shows ~47% charge remaining (also showing 2 bars on dash, so seems in agreement), although I haven't actually measured the voltage as I need to open the battery pack - this will be my next move
*I ensured the orange jumper is installed properly, i. e. push in, slide to the right
*my mechanic can spin the engine manually

Some more questions:
* i do not suspect the transmission assy which houses the MG1 and MG2 is defective, and I am in denial that that's possible because i know the work involved of changing it again, so my question is, how do a i test that both motors are good? Can I ohm the three terminals out to see if the motors are bad?

* how do i test if the inverter is functioning as it should, is there a specific voltage at its output and how much?

If some of these blurbs don't make any sense please do steer me in the right direction. I am tempted to use techstream but last time I tried, it's such a hassle to get it working and just waste too much time. I kind if regretted getting this work done as it involves too much work, on top of my day job, but here's to hoping all is not hopeless, I'm sure a lot of experts here can at least provide some valuable information.

 

I stand corrected, so it is indeed MG1 that spins the engine at start.

There is no red triangle, but a yellow car symbol with exclamation mark, a red battery symbol for the 12V, a blinking park light when shift is attempted among other lights, but I think these are the relevant ones.

As mentioned I use Torque, a mobile app in tandem with an Elm bluetooth OBD reader, I undestand its not very extensive but that is what I have now.

You're right, the ECM doesn't see any signal from the crankshaft (or camshaft) as I mentioned earlier I don't hear any attempt for the system to spin as before the tranny/clutch damper change, isn't this is why the ECM deems it unsafe and refuses to go to ready state for a gear change. No spin therefore no signals from the sensors, no signals from the sensors therefore the ECM doesn't know what to do, please tell me if this is incorrect. But the initial spin has to happen first via MG1, for ECM to see the sensor outputs.

And therefore code P0335 is thrown.

If this is the case, where do I start? Inverter? MG1 not spinning? Is the HV battery too low to even spin MG1 at 47% soc? I can measure the HV battery but how can one eliminate the other two, e.g. MG1 or Inverter? Any hints?

I am reluctant to try and set up a techstream, any easier alternative to pulling out relevant codes?

 

Thanks, will try those

 

I will try other readers which may be easier for me to access, as suggested by Brian1954, and see where that takes me, otherwise I may just have to go this route

 

Yes, mine is 2012, the tranny was from 2014 if I remember correctly, but definitely a Gen 3

 

Was able to pull out more codes with Dr Prius and veepeak obdcheck VP11.

Hybrid battery look good, around 208 V, so I think thay van be ruled out.

Here are the codes:
P0A09, P0A0D, U0110

* the 09 is about a bad inverter so thats a consideration

* the 0D is the orange plug, i can rule that out

* the U0110 is about a failed comm ? is this related to the failed inverter if that is the case?

Further, my main issue is that there is a low sound, like a small pump or motor constantly running when the 12V battery is connected. I hear in the engine bay around the inverter area, or below it, even with power off. I had to disconnect the 12v battery for it to go away. I know there's a sound from a pump when power is turned off for the heated coolant to go into the expansion tank, but this doesn't feel like it. Some short? But where to start?

No P0A08, but I did check all the fuses in the engine bay, nothing's blown.

 

Hi Chapman,

My apologies for being so quick to conclude, yes indeed there are many things to check before we can rule out P0A0D, and not just the orange connector.

I am still busy working on it, will update later.

Also with Dr Prius, what would be the typical charging voltage while the system is charging, what is the highest level?

I am seeing up to 230v but the soc is not going up?

 

ok seems, the new tranny is working

the main issue was that big connector from the fuse block into the left side of the Inverter was loose, its a big muti-pin connector and is divided into two segments; my mechanic broke the locking pin, so he did a not so great fix that didn't work

we took it out after I checked all fuses were working

so we removed the air filter assembly and
removed the inverter connector, it didn't feel like it was making contact, because like the HV orange locking plug, you need to pull the locking arm up (the grey part of the connector), push the connector in, and push the locking arm (the grey part i just mentioned, which has two plastic ends that locks in place, unfortunately it was broken)

the car then started and went to ready mode after pushing the power button twice, but still the dash was lit like Christmas tree, multiple codes came up: P0335, P0343, P0102, P0113, tried clearing, it keeps coming back.

the dash had a steering wheel with exclamation symbol, traction control symbol, circle with exclamation in the middle in yellow, among others that i think were trivial, such as parking brake, etc

so there's was quite a bit of fear as to "what is still going on here?" as they wont clear at all after several tries

on top of this, there's still this constant sound of motor whirring under the engine, and i started measuring the current from the 12v battery and it was over 10 Amps, and my 10 Amps meter goes into overload, and the battery quickly drains to approx 6 volts- this is with the car off. At times the current drops to 7.5Amps, so we thought there's a big short somewhere!?

this last part above is probably the worst part of not knowing what's going on, i feared theres a big short somewhere (?)

and why is this happening at a very low 12V battery? i hooked up a battery booster and it refuses to work (batt booster must have protection)

what's causing this high current draw when the 12v battery is very low? is there a relay somewhere that is enabled/disabled turning on a circuit somewhere?

 

I tried the ignition 3 fuse but it doesn't stop. I have to disconnect the 12V batt.

 

I tried the ignition 3 fuse but it doesn't stop. I have to disconnect the 12V batt.

 

Good idea, never thought of that, I always use the meter in series but this is simpler/better.