First oil change

You might try the honda oil filter socket, stamped heavy-gauge steel. There's only one size if I'm not mistaken (and it's what you need), and it's quite compact (but heavy duty). Couple it with a 17 mm ratcheting socket (or fixed), and it'll fit in tight quarters. Could be the TOY socket would work thus too, but it does look a little bulkier, cast aluminum?

Appreciate you're missing out on the torque wrench, but IIRC Toyota specs 13 lb/ft OR 3/4 turn past first contact. I've found the latter method closely matches the former. Put a blob of masking tape at 6 o'clock, then tighten till it's come 'round to 3 o'clock.

 

I used a strap wrench to get it off, worked great. There's too many variables involved to bother trying to torque an oil filter. I just put it on by hand.

 

90915-10009 is the filter used on the assembly line. You should only see it on brand new cars. 90915-YZZN1 is the correct replacement size. 90915-YZZF2 will also work in a pinch if you can't find an N1 for some reason.

(Apparently N1 used to be made a Denso factory in China. During the Trump presidency, tariffs were added to Chinese products, so Toyota switched to F2 which was compatible with N1 but not produced in China. Toyota switched back to N1 during covid as those tariffs were suspended and Biden didn't renew them. Also, Denso switched N1 production to a factory in Thailand, so it was a moot point anyway.)

 

That one is longer? If so, maybe not a good idea; clearance for socket and wrench is just doable, with the shorter filter.

 

The 3/4 turn distance on a thread is better than a torque value, or at least as good, because we are talking about a thick rubber o ring or flat gasket not metal to metal. 3/4 turn gives a precise compression distance on the gasket. 16 threads per inch = .0635” per turn. Torque is depending on the gasket resisting turning on the grease or whatever is on the gasket and the rubber. So you should use a Toyota oring type filter as aftermarket Fram etc gasket has a completely different rubber and cross section. I would say 3/4 turn is a far better way. Of course Denso proclaims theirs are torque stopper so turn until stops by hand. Using a wrench may cut a groove in the oil filter mount if gorilla force is used.

 

Considering taking the full panel off, at least occasionally. This affords a better view, say for leaks, and keeps its fasteners from becoming seized with grit or rust (plastic and steel fasteners).

it’d be cool if someone could post the 5th gen oil change instruction. FWIW this stuff used to be published in Owners Manuals.

 

My fist

My first 2020 bought new had that oil filter. Red anti drain valve. Made in China by Denso. The N1 is sort of green valve made in Thailand.
My post on oil filters had a mistake, 16 threads is .0625” per turn gasket compression. Good way to see if anyone actually read it. Looks like not.
I think I may source a USA made filter though, if ever I work through the three N1 I have left.

 

I've never torqued an oil filter on, always by hand.
375K miles on my Tacoma doing this every 5K.
I also don't know of any mechanic that does that.

 

Toyota did not design it for use with a Fumoto valve...

 

Would you be averse to the following the alternate degree-of-turn spec? For example, with the spin-on filter on later 4th gen year Prius it’s 13 lb/ft or 3/4 turn past first contact.

“Hand tighten” is gonna be quite a range, depending on your arm/hand strength, how high you’ve raised the car, even how you’re feeling. And, do you go full-bore, or just nonchalant snug-it down?

I’d agree not all torque specs need to be slavishly followed, but something critical to engine survival, I’d respect it.

 

Sometimes you need to retreat. It's not easy, especially after investing some $'s and effort, but it's part of life. I think the orientation of that valve would keep me awake at night. Hit just the right road debris and your engine's life blood would be a trail down the road. These valves have their fans, but I'd pass.

 

I hand tight pretty well til it doesn’t move much anymore. As long as the filter seals, it’s good

 

Dang, that is a tight fit for a wrench!

And Toyota Part numbers will give you gray hairs.....But the 90915-YZZN1 Replaces: 08922-02005, 15600-13051, 15600-16020, 15600-16021, 15601-01010, 15601-13010, 15601-13011, 90080-91034, 90080-91058, 90915-03001, 90915-10001, 90915-10003, 90915-10009, 90915-TA001, 90915-YZZA2, 90915-YZZF2, 90915-YZZM1

Come on, Toyota....KISS (keep it simple stupid)

I was pleasantly surprised that my old 2008 Corolla and 2017/2021 Priis all use the YZZN1 filter so I buy them in bulk. (I also buy the drain plug crush washer in bulk but some newer car models' filter have them in the box....my daughter's Hyundai and son' VW both do.

 

Just had mine in for it's first oil change - it got a 90915-YZZM3, which is the specified one for Europe as the "local oil filter". Not sure why it should be different, as it's also made in China according to some Google searching.

 

They probably have different model numbers for supply chain reasons? Or maybe its for regulatory reasons? Its a common enough thing for different regions across tons of products so I'm sure there's a good reason.

 

sorry to go out of topic: here the guy says there are two different sized oil filters. Which one is best?
thanks

 

"The guy" is behind the counter at a Toyota dealership? If so, and IF it's per Gen 4, the correct oil filter would be 90915-YZZN1. There's another one, maybe a centimeter longer, used in Camry's and Rav4's IIRC, Might be 90915-YZZN2. The difference between the two? A centimeter.

When I'm getting an oil filter at dealership parts department, or most anything, I find it best to just tell them what you need (say "oil filter"), and what you're driving. Doesn't hurt to verify though; they can make mistakes.