After egr cleaning codes remain didnt fix shaking/stall

Will try tomorrow. I do test that my grounds are working. So a junk yard ecm might be ok if the price is right?

 

Found this very interesting website re engine control and grounds
ECU Grounds and Quick Checks - Toyota Engine Control Systems
from
Toyota Engine Control Systems

 

Finally got around to posting techstream ffd for gen3 prius which is attached. Also managed to try a different ECM but obd codes exactly as before. As told probably isnt the problem. Have noticed that MAF in ffd is high compared to value in service manual. But no explanation why. Also wires for MAF subsystem appear to have been checked before and wrapped in electric tape. But inspection doesnt show any cracks or broken wires. I am at a total loss at this time. Another thing, I get a high and a low voltage for the MAF. What?

 

Im trying to do gas engiine diagnostics since I cleared all the current codes, ignoring permanenet codes which I think will go away after driving again. But now ice wont start, cant accelerate, just shakes really bad. Gas is full, pump switches on/off. Need to check fuel pressure and spark manually. Techstream isnt helping or Im not using it right. Any other suggestions?

 

Because I am new to this. I didnt think the problem is the same as the thread I started which was originally about error codes, not an ice that doesnt run. I dont get the codes anymore so that problem is done. But I keep learning.

 

[QUOTE="Brian1954, post: 3389308, member: 190341
I recommend that tou take the car to a independent hybrid mechanic or the dealership because I do no think that you will be able to diagnose the problem yourself.
Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.[/QUOTE]

Not helpful. Two problems two threads. Codes had nothing to do with current problem. But I understand about continuity.

 

I thought they were "instantaneous" in ready mode. In ready mode I was able to get both a P0102 and P0103 before I cleared the problem without engine running. In any case with Techstream I can see that they are in the normal range and working because the values fluctuate and they conform to the service manual specs. Also same results with temporary MAF. I think it was the connector to the ECM because after removing it several time to test wires problem disappeared, tests all in spec now. Unfortunately cant start ICE and it shakes violently. Without codes cant really determine where to look. Just doing regular checks, spark good, fuses good, fuel present, MAF working, IAT working, EV mode works. Thinking I will check an injector next. I did clean the cylinder head air intake ports when I cleaned the intake manifold. Suggestions welcome because I am out of codes and ideas.

 

1) I havent checked the fuel pressure yet. Will it be ok to remove an injector to see if it is working? I did clean the intake ports on the head, but I dont think I touched the injectors, but maybe.
2) Is there anyway to check if the immobilizer is interfering? Light flashes when car is off and doesnt flash when in EV mode.
3) Will an ECU throw a code if there is a problem? If not is there a way to test the ecus? EV mode does work.

 

Still here and still in trouble. Now have no current codes, no engine light, EV mode works good and recharges battery rolling down hill. Still cant get gas engine to run. Spark is good, fuel pressure good, air flow working, oil level good, gas cap good, tank full, hv battery 200+ volts, 12 volt at 12.8 and tested good with load tester. wiring looks good but not always easy to see. Doesnt look like the head gasket is leaking. What else should I check? Is there a list of conditions that cause the gas engine not to start, other than the ones I listed?

 

Car stalled while driving tried to restart without success until I was at 2 purple bars. Had it towed home and bought a Maxxvolts charger to charge the traction battery. Engine doesnt run and charge the battery so I do. The hill was just a test. All the EV side seems ok. Im not driving anywhere, just moving the car around.
I have 4 permanent codes which i believe the ECU has to clear after so many cycles and miles. The current codes were cleared after repairs. So no codes that should stop the engine, especially if the computer thinks it ready. I hope you get an answer to share with me.

 

This gets interesting. My gen3 shows green bars for the traction battery until it gets to the last 2 bars which look purpleish, maybe magenta (not cyan). The other thing I noticed in my gen3 is that when the car is in ig (what I call accessory) mode the 12 volt battery is getting charged from the traction battery already and is 14+ volts instead of 12 volts, different from what I've read. This is my first and only hybrid.