Techstream question

It is difficult and requires a registry hack and setting of flags. Most versions require XP or Win7 and have a cryptic txt file for instructions. Includes warnings to disable internet access and if you get a message from Toyota delete everything and reinstall. You get what you pay for.

 

Go out and take the relays out follow the bleeding procedures like the manual says bleed the front brakes normally pump pump hole down open the zerk let it squirt assistant all do it again. Then put the relays in assistant pumping the brakes again and holding down bleed the backs pretty much like you would a normal car just realizing when you crack the zerk in the back with the relays installed the pump will just pump fluid out as long as you want so you can bleed that one side in one shot there's no need to pump up or do anything again see no air closed the zerk. Move to the other side. Now see what you got I bet you have pretty good brakes until you can figure out your tech issue I bled my generation to this way and it's been perfect ever since even I have tech working I haven't bothered to bleed it with tech I have a bunch of other cars but not this one that I bled manually I've just left it working perfectly and I don't want to rock the boat.

 

I know that techstream, once you've learned the mumbo jumbo jargon of it, actually makes the job much easier and efficient.

This, I do know also...
On my 2003 Gen1 you can simply shut down and disconnect the electronics and ECUs, then do the bleeding the good old school way, and it works great.
But you don't have to go pulling relays and stuff...
Just disconnect the 12v battery AND disconnect the safety plug from the HV battery, so there is absolutely no juice anywhere.
The system can be bled just like I use to in my 73 VW Bug. No problem.

 

Well yes if you're pulling the battery or the 12 volt supply that's essentially pulling the relays of the ABS system for a minute then you don't have to reset your radio if that's a thing. The point I was just trying to make in the Gen 2 at least so that should mean the generation one it is possible to street bleed out in the wild.

 

This is a sterling example of the dangerous difference between somebody saying "hey, I did this, and I'm sure it worked great" and that being workable in reality.

I'm pretty sure I uploaded a Gen 1 hydraulic diagram some time years ago, but haven't had luck searching it back up just now. It can be found in the Gen 1 New Car Features manual.

When there is no electrical power to the system—it doesn't matter whether you get there by pulling fuses or relays or battery connections—it's simply in failsafe mode. All of the valves are powered off. The three ABS H valves go open when they're off, and the three ABS R valves go closed. SMC1 and SMC2 go open, SS goes closed. SLA and SLR go closed. You are able to mash fluid with the pedal through all of the open fail-safe passages, and not through the closed passages.

As with any later generation, you can often get away with it if the only air in your system is out in the brake lines to the wheels. If there is any air in those valved-off passages in the actuator, you're simply not doing the job unless you have a scan tool to work the valves for you.

 

Yes, we are both correct. Techstream makes the process more efficient and sort of easier, but our non-techstream way, works just fine also.

 

You can bleed brake lines on these cars manually as long as the master cylinder assembly has not been changed. If you don’t let the reservoir go dry. After a changeout you need an advanced scanner to exercise the additional solenoids a brake by wire system employs.

Safety is the issue. I would want to know the failsafe circuit was going to work. It would be sad if trying to save $120 for a dealer flush cost you a $2000 emergency room bill. Worse if you hurt someone else.

 

It might be more accurate to say you are both equally incorrect.

 

Been driving like this now for over a year going into the next winter and all good all the amber lights are off I have seen traction control work in the rain and ABS seems to be doing well I have tech and I can bleed it with tech now I just haven't bothered because everything seems to be working spot on. Getting ready to change the break actuator on the '07 I just got maybe tomorrow and I'll use tech to bleed it.

 

I also note that if you put the new actuator in or used actuator in if you connect the main feed line for brake fluid to the actuator and then run your lines up from bottom to top leaving them just a crack undone. And then watching for fresh fluid coming from the reservoir. I then tighten up the last turn or so working my way up so that air seemingly has been pushed out and then I just close everything up do the front wheels and the rear wheels and usually it's working great.

 

That's all good and well, but you're adding Gen 2 information to a Gen 1 thread. What you might seem to work on a Gen 2 might be totally invalid for a Gen 1, so there's that.

 

No I think what the guy who's saying who's working on is Gen 1 is that you can do just that and I would think this would be backwards compatible more than it would be forward compatible remember Toyota was used all over the world for many many years like Land cruisers and all of that just like the Land Rover was meant to be fixed with paper clips in Africa then that all changed but Africa didn't change You still had to have vehicles in places like Africa that could be fixed on shoe strings budgets or otherwise so there was those things not that the Prius was made for these places but Toyota was still building vehicles that could be repaired this way and then about 2010 somewhere around there all that changed didn't seem to make any difference anymore The world was going to evolve enough in those places where regular dealer networks and all of that could survive and possibly thrive so now even Land Rover you're not fixing those anywhere. So out in the bush in those places the old vehicles will rule the roost because they can still be fixed with minimal fuss these new things require a whole trail of support vehicles if you will. But this is not to argue about this if you have one of these cars you just try it and see what happens that's all Is anybody going to have a wreck and kill everybody in the neighborhood I seriously doubt it I drove one of these cars around a generation 2 on nothing but regenerative breaking for 4 days didn't have a problem in the world No kidding this was recently too like two weeks ago when I first got this '08 green colored leather interior thing that's in mint condition other than needing the break actuator.

 

The overall answer is the same for Gen 1 as the others. There are valves inside the actuator that are simply closed and no fluid goes through them, if you are not using a scan tool to run the proper bleed procedure. You can often get away with bleeding that way if the only air you need out is in the lines out by the wheels. There are passages inside the actuator that will never be bled that way. If any air is present there, some of the advice given in this thread will be unsafe.

 

Well I guess that's true and in countries like Africa India places like that that's not the highest priority I don't guess moving the people is If you've driven in India or any of those countries you get the idea.

 

Yeah I have some free time this afternoon so while my girlfriend is driving one car around on regenerative or electric brakes only just for the hell of it I will bleed the '09 gold ugly work vehicle and see if anything changes or it makes any funny noises just for haha's. The car brakes And all the VSC and ABS functions seem to work including standing on the pedal with two feet which is uncomfortable to say the least car brakes great. I doubt there'll be any changes but I'll get to hear the valves click and get the pump the pedal 30 times and 30 seconds so on and so forth.