P1151 code and Coolant Heat Storage tank replacement

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Guessing you (or someone else) might need the workup for P1151 :

https://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%94%B0%E6%99%AE%E7%91%9E%E6%96%AF%E5%8E%9F%E5%8E%82%E8%8B%B1%E6%96%87%E6%89%8B%E5%86%8Cpdf%E6%A0%BC%E5%BC%8F/repair%20manual/04pruisr/05/2054m/cip1151.pdf

Here is the requested official step by step for the tank and pump :

https://attachments.priuschat.com/attachment-files/2018/02/139747_2006_PRIUS_Repair_Manual_-_Radiator_Coolant_Heat_Storage_Tank_and_Pump.pdf

 

Just remember that the coolant in that tank is HOT for a long time after you shut the engine off. If you have not changed the coolant in some time this would be a good time to do it.

 

So 9f one has this code . The tank is leaking not water tight??? Or is the pump not pumping or something else. I'd think you'd see coolant leaking out of fender well??? Reason I ask is I have a car sitting here that the dealer said 2 years ago this was an emergency repair that was needed The people that owned the car at the time declined the service and off they win I guess The lady said they didn't do anything about it the code just went away. The car doesn't seem to overheat I drove it 75 mph from where I bought it on the side of the road to my house 45 minutes away car drove like a dream flew down the road air conditioning and everything no leaking coolant anywhere so I'm not sure what to think about the dealer discovering that p1151 code. And was wondering maybe the pump was intermittent and only moving water when it feels like it like some pumps will do could that also set the code?

 

I've said it before and I'll say it again. Monitor the data and see what the system does.

Run the car up to full operating temperature. The next day, turn ignition ON (not ready). Make sure the HVAC is off. Connect your capable scan tool and look at RPM, ECT (coolant temperature), water outlet temp (CHS temperature), and maybe 3-way valve position.

Now go ready. The CHS pump should run about 5 seconds before the ICE starts. See if the pump does run, and if so what do the temp sensors read?

Here's a known good capture from a 2006.

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But the cooling tank being bad what does that mean exactly? The coolant tank the silver thing would leak? Does it have a bladder in it like the fuel tank? I don't think so. So in other words to replace the tank for a dealer to want to replace this silver tank it would need to be not holding water properly correct? Not the little pump beside it not the hoses but the tank itself I'm holding one in my hand as I'm writing this and I'm just trying to figure out how I would be bamboozled into a $2,400 job to replace this little tank which I have like 10 of here in the yard. I understand about the coolant not moving in the pump and this and that got it but if the pump wasn't working wouldn't the dealer replace the pump or the other pump or the three-way valve? Rather than just say we want to replace the tank? To replace the tank to me would seem the tank is compromised not able to hold liquid when it's filled with it In other words it leaks out like a broken radiator hose would do and then if that was happening wouldn't I see water running out of the fender well or a good steady drip or something along those lines? That's all I was asking I understand about the pumps running and moving the fluid and all of that the fluid dynamics part of it. I was just trying to figure out how they came to think that the coolant storage tank physically itself should be replaced other than selling a part in labor. The coolant tank doesn't do anything the pumps and the valves do but the coolant tank just sits there like the radiator and in these cars it seems like the AC condenser is more likely to spring a leak and what have you then the radiator or a sub holding tank and a fender. But then again what do I know.

 

I don't know. You don't know. You won't know unless you do some testing. Could be the pump. Or the valve. Or hose routing.

Maybe the tank is clogged. Maybe the tank is internally damaged and doesn't insulate anymore.

If you just want to ramble on and speculate, then go for it.

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Bladder no. Thermos yes.

A good source to find out what the thing is and what it's there for and how it's all s'posed to work is the New Car Features manual.

Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat

 

So you mean it's glass lined like a thermos bottle hopefully maybe it's just double metal no glass. The dealer said they had a p1150 something code that goes to the coolant recovery tank That's what they said on this receipt that's in the vehicle driving 75 mi an hour in 95° weather coming over 50 miles from the house where we bought the car the car drove incredibly beautifully well nothing got hot nothing was leaking the coolant is full and both jugs and the car was running great brought it home and parked it for the evening and the next morning I have codes for the battery high voltage leaking to the rest of the car now I have to do the down and dirty test on the video from the plug bolt to the case of the battery and see if this is a real thing or it is the gateway problem that I cannot seem to figure out what the gateway is and how to fix it so far maybe these communication gateways are keeping my MFD from powering.

 

No I don't want the ramble on I'm staring at the thing It's hot but not hot enough to be alarming I drove for an hour at 74 miles an hour and 95° heat I'm imagining I'm going to be as hot as I'm going to get. I was just trying to figure out why the dealer was telling the poor woman that owned the car that this code was there and they wanted to replace the whole tank The car wasn't in an accident and the fender got hit or anything like that. I don't have the code now for any of that so I've pretty much left it alone The several pumps that are in the car all seem to run I have not run individual tests on any of the heat recovery tank or any of that because it all seems to be working the hoses are warm all the way through the system all the hoses after this hour drive in the 95° weather all the hoses were warm to operating temperature with my temp gun nothing to raise any awareness to anything so I just left it alone I've got plenty of heat tanks here if it needs to be replaced I didn't know the heat tank itself could just fail I didn't know it was like a thermos whether glass lined or otherwise and it hasn't been hit or fractured it looks pretty much brand new.

 

If "everything is working" (correctly), then the ECM wouldn't be setting that code. The ECM doesn't care about what you see with your temperature gun. It's looking at the ECT & CHS temp sensors during a cold start.

Whatever. Don't know why you won't run a simple test with a scantool, but good luck.

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I have the scan tool hooked up I guess you didn't see I didn't have that code The Toyota dealer did during the pandemic. The lady declined the repair service. I do not know how the code disappeared but according to her she told them she wasn't paying $2,400 which I'm not sure why they paid exorbitant rates for everything else they had done every time the car went in according to this paperwork. My question was well is what it was and your answer is run all these tests that's fine I don't have that code now I was just curious if the heat recovery tank was bad wouldn't it be doing some kind of leaking or something and the answer to that simply is no apparently so there's that heat recovery tanks and pumps I have plenty of them here on site laying right here in the carport I was going to use them for another project or do something with them . This a lake that I'm working on has gateway issues at the moment no problem with any cooling that I can tell everything is full and on the 40 mi trip home at 75 80 down the highway everything was ridiculously smooth sailing not an issue anywhere other than the MFD wouldn't display which it still doesn't and the gateway issue and the codes for battery leakage which with the multimeter test from the case to the orange plug bolt with the handle lifted up yields 114 volt steady no leaking down nothing the test meter doesn't budge It just sits there.

 

Sorry I dont know how to start a new thread , I have a question , 2007 toyota prius I replaced the gaskets on intake manifold and throttle body just for cleaning , also replaced The coolant sensor next to the drain, and the next day I got code p1151, I already bled the system twice and checked for any vaccum leaks but the code keeps comming back.

 

So then it sounds like you haven't completely purged air out of the system or you in fact have a problem with the coolant heat storage tank If the car's not been in an accident in that tank's not dented or anything else I would suspect the pump or the temp sensor that screwed there right next to the pump on the bottom of the tank so when you start the car in the morning or it's cold you should hear that pump running right there in front of the driver side front tire If your fender liners missing you can have somebody ready the car with your hand on the pump and feel it running If that happens that pretty much rules out the pump being a problem. But if there's nothing to pump and it's only a big air bubble that's not the pumps fault and then that could trigger the 11:51 because coolant's not moving past the sensor through the coolant heat storage tank in or out or whatever so I don't know what the temperature is where you are right now I would say open the radiator cap if you don't see radiator fluid right at the very top of the cap where it's almost dropping into the hole to go to the reservoir sit there with your coolant jug and pour a slow stream into your radiator under the yellow cap that you just removed and see how many quarts you can add pouring slowly you'll fill to the top of the neck you'll watch it drop down plop plop plop you'll pour more in watch it drop down flop plop flop when it no longer plop plop plops and stays at the top of the filler neck ring then you can cap it Make sure the jug is full so you can see coolant at the very bottom of the neck but not touching the top of the neck at the starting point where it will fill an overflow cap it. Now go for a reasonably spirited drive get the car warm see what you got clear your 11:51 and drive

 

Why did you replace that coolant sensor? (I assume that's the sensor located at the bottom of the Coolant Heat Storage tank).

Does the CHS pump run when you turn the car off and as you power on the next day?

P1151 sets because the ECM "doesn't like" something it sees for the CHS temperature sensor. (I had a Gen2 with that code - the wires were ripped out of the connector. It "should" have set something like a P1118 but it got P1151).

I would suggest using a capable scantool that has enhanced (Prius specific) ECM data to look at what the CHS temp sensor is reporting, esp during cold engine startup.

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I know in the manual it talks about after you park the car 5 hours after you've turned the car off that pump's going to come on and I guess take a sample of the water pull some by the temp sensor something along those lines I haven't bothered to walk out at 4 hours and 50 minutes and wait to see if that really happens but with all the noises these cars make I imagine it does My pump runs in the morning when I turn the car on but I get the 11:51 code I haven't owned the sensor done anything like that but I did verify the pump comes on sounds reasonable doesn't seem to be struggling and these pumps generally seem to last a good long time I use one just like it for inverter duty to be honest about it It's been in place like 5 years almost. So I guess the only thing left is the temp sensor in this system or the computer that monitors this system for the code 1151