The overtight oil filter catridge cap......It's not the dealer's fault.

If it's a non-official application, sellers may be reluctant to confirm fit. For $24, and with @xliderider recommendation, not too much of a gamble?

Swapping to spin-on is similar; it's not officially acceptable, but it works just fine.

 

Yes, the Scion IQ and the Toyota Prius share the same size oil filter housing.

The reason for the official incompatibility is that the Prius comes from the factory with the plastic housing, so anything else comes up as non-oem/not compatible.

Long story short, it will fit.

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Sorry, wrong Scion. The one for the Scion iM fits, not the one for the iQ.

Here's the correct housing:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/225312041397?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=9fmxMCUlQyy&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=lgL0ua8ZQBW&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

It takes the same Toyota 04152-YZZA6 filter element as the Toyota Prius and Corolla, all with the 1.8L engine.

The iQ housing takes a different filter element ending in YZZA7.

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Thank you so much xliderider! I feel so fortunate to have found this forum. I've always found the advice given here excellent!

 

BTW- I have been using the same Fram Ultra XG10358 filter for my iQ that is prescribed for my ‘12 Prius v. The dimensions listed are the exact same, at least on the Fram website. I also verified when I removed the old filter and compared with the new. It does not come with the drain tool nor the small gasket (for the cap pre-drain)…

 

That “90 degrees” does matter. I know because one time I carelessly inserted the cartridge and tried turning it (required more force than usual) and damaged the threads. Usually I’ll immediately notice something is wrong, pull it out and try again, but this time I pushed it. Then I revisited the instructions as well to see that arrow with 1/4 turn angle.

I think I mentioned the other vehicles I’ve dealt with have a xx Nm + y Nm format for the torque spec. Without “knowing for sure” I dare say it’s because the rubber gasket is not glued to the filter housing, it is allowed to settle before the final tightening to spec. On extremely rare occasion do I notice any movement when increasing the torque setting and tightening further. I suggest (edit) anyone still using the plastic cap try initially turning until the cap just bottoms out, then tightening to spec. Then observe if the gasket ever jumps the groove…

 

I use the same filter religiously. After changing oil filters at meet ups and seeing half of the filters mashed in or twisted, can’t recommend Toyota cartridge oem filters.

 

Have you guys tried vaseline in the threads? Just a little, not much. With my other cars (that have similar plastic cap for engine oil and fuel filters) vaseline has helped a lot. Especially when screwing the cover back in.

 

Instructions say to clean the area, so no, no Vaseline. I don’t have much trouble (from recollection) ever since I started changing myself.

I now have a Dorman plastic cap. Hopefully I never mess it up….

 

What I've noticed with mine is the friction seems to come from the O ring swelling up. There's always a new O ring with the filter element, and I always lube that with oil, as directed (though it even seems to be pre-lubed in the package).

But I have to say that for as long as I've been doing the changes myself, I've never had much problem getting the cap off. It always feels like it has extra friction from the swollen O ring, but it never feels really stuck.

 

Same here, using a cheap stamped steel cap wrench on the original plastic cap.

 

When I started changing oil I used Fram Ultra. I don’t mean to sound like a broken record with regards to that but the premium filters tend to use a different material for the gasket. Of course this has different oil absorption/swelling properties. (You get what you pay for).

I got the official cap wrench direct from Toyota/Bosch service solutions. It works well. I would have gotten one for our Sienna but since I tend to use aftermarket filters and a torque wrench I haven’t come across issues except when I used the cheapest oil filter. (Stopped doing that and no issues). Spin on filters have slightly different tolerances and it would be a waste of money if it didn’t fit my aftermarket filter.

 

To update ... The aforementioned tool functioned well every time, until I recently decided to remove (or at least loosen as a test) the filter cap, after a longer-than-usual time undisturbed. The last time it was put on was by the dealer---the last of their "free" oil changes.

That time, the cap didn't budge, but the edges of the 3/8" square-drive hole of the tool collapsed, allowing the drive square to slip. I tediously filed the mangled hole to fit a ½"-square breaker bar and tried again.
The cap didn't budge, and the enlarged square held, but the tool slipped on the cap, at what I'd guess to be roughly 70 ft-lb torque. I jammed a paper towel between the cap and tool, and tried again.
That time, the cap didn't budge, and the tool didn't slip on the cap, but the spot-welds that secured the drive-hole part of the tool to the rest of it broke, at what I'd guess to have been at least 100ft-lb--- over 5 times the specified tightening torque.

Ridiculous!

 

Slammed on by an impact.

 

Omg, such a fun read to say the list .. I'v done 34 oil changes, never a single issue with OEM cartridge cap.
Clean cartridge and filter housing threads REALLY well from dirty oil, dust, sand and who know what. Don't use gorilla force, use torque wrench if you can't feel it.

 

That's why, you've always done it yourself. Try taking it to a dealer service department for an oil change. Then deal with the overfilled oil level, and over torqued oil filter housing in 6 months/5K miles.

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That's possible, but I can't prove it. Very annoying!

Now I'm in search of a very strong cap wrench, and hoping it can loosen the filter cap without fracturing it, or breaking the metal filter housing piece that bolts to the block (and timing cover). I have a spare OEM plastic cap, just in case...

... And never a single issue with my OEM cap all the times I'd changed the filter myself the previous time.

 

I’m using the Honda oil filter socket; works on Hondas, Toyota and Mazda so far. The same aforementioned 64.5 mm inside face-to-face. Heavy stamped steel, 3/8” drive.

For your current problem though, maybe a pair of these?


I use it mainly for spaghetti sauce jars.

maybe dust the barrel of the filter cap with a little pumice too?

 

This is the best bottle/jar opener I've ever used. It was recommend by my sister, who has arthritic hands.

It is adjustable to a wide range of sizes, and gives you a lot of leverage on the lids.

Swing-A-Way Comfort Grip Jar Opener, Black, 7.5-Inch https://a.co/d/ebxGBlW

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