Gen 2 engine rebuild thread.

Well I called an engineer at Mahle and they are not wanting to admit any fault and basically called me an idiot for trying to install them.

I've looked at pics of the 1NZFX/FXE going clear back to 2000, and none of the blocks were ever notched out for bearings with claws.

It's possible a machinist could notch them, but it doesn't mention that anywhere in the FSM.

I looked in the Sealed Power catalog and their bearings for this motor don't have claws either...

So it's apparent Mahle is in the wrong here..

 

This is how the middle oil pan came back. The pickup tube is just sitting there.


I carefully scraped as much material as I could with a razor blade.


Then using 400 grit sandpaper, removed as much as I could, then used 320 grit emery paper to take care of the harder spots.



I rewashed it and used a green scouring pad on the grease that was left, and dried it off.

 

Here is what I found out from speaking with topline automotive:

The 1.5L 1NZFE used locating tabs from the year 2000 until August of 2003.
The 1st Generation Prius engine had them as well.

From August of 2003 to discontinuance, the engine was not cut for locating tabs.

So apparently Mahle pulled a set from an 1st generation Prius, reversed engineered those, and still claims the engine "should be cut for them".

That engine only had cuts for locating tabs for 3 whole years, out of the other SIXTEEN YEARS it was produced (last used on the 2019 Prius C).

 

VERY expensive lesson, can't use ring compressor on the lower oil control rings. It shatters them. FSM doesn't say this either, they go in by hand (pressing them around a bit).

But got one piston in.

 

Ordered some rings from Hastings, about $78 shipped. The eBay seller who had the cheaper ones is out, and my local stealership wanted $166 for a set!.

 

The interesting thing is, when I took it apart, the motor sounds very similar without the spark plugs and fuel injectors connected. I always thought the hybrid motor just spins the engine for a few seconds to start it, but it will literally run 15 seconds before throwing a code.

 

Transmission is out, as well as the cradle.

Used the engine lift to hoist the front up.



Good thing I took it apart, control arms are long overdue for replacement..

 

Got the harness out.


Not sure what this is for, maybe a diagnostic connector during assembly?


Also...I don't understand the point of this, it's like they made too long of harness on this section and made a clip to hold the extra wiring?

 

Got the rings from Hastings today. They are US made and the oil rings are a 3 piece design.

 

Got the middle and lower oil pans on. Used a gasket on the lower.


Thought maybe I forgot something, but looking at other engines, this is by design. I guess it's weep hole of some kind of oil if the pressure is exceeded somehow.


Shaved the sealant off at the timing cover, and noticed it shrunk. I packed a bit more in. If this goes to leaking, it's a PITA.
This is a before pic.


Oil pressure switch installed.


Did not have the right bit to install this filter union. But found a chisel that worked just fine.


I installed the new rear main seal too deep and have to get an new one tomorrow.

 

Have not got it yet, but here is a pic of the head from the shop.

 

They said one of the valve keepers was missing, which I find impossible.

Also the rebuild cost was $450 which I found a little steep, but another shop wanted 500-700.

Rebuilt heads are on eBay for $400 shipped, but they never say what all is done to them.

So total cost of the machine shop will be $600.

 

Also at 200k, all 3 engine mounts were due for replacing, so were the control arms.

I removed rust from, and painted a lot of parts.


Right now I'm working on repainting the cradle.

 

Well the head is on, torqued, and got the timing chain on.
Weird thing is, once you set it, you have to rotate it 3-4 times for the marks to line back up again which is weird.