Can EGR Valve Part # 25620-37110 Swap With 25620-37120 Installed Already In 2013?

Yes, intake up to the inside of the EGR Valve was thoroughly cleaned, where the inside of the EGR Valve around the valve stem wasn't as much.

Underneath was to drain the oil. I was thinking after I had back together maybe I could find a hose and drain via the PCV Valve bung or maybe with a small enough hose through the dip stick tube. Then my thought was get the car onto pavement and drain the oil down for certain on solid ground.

Being when I started the car up on the lawn, there was only a very very brief like cold weather rattle and no vibration, I assumed was good to go after a little driving around to test and then stop to clear codes and another test drive. Maybe that was due to me not disconnecting the battery when I worked on?

Seemed all good, so now I'm totally on board with cleaning the rest and not worrying about oil and gas coming through the EGR and Intake circuit again.

On another note, when first starting the car, have you ever noticed a very slight different engine idle rattle sound that goes away after a certain time or when slightly quickly depressing the gas pedal? Wondering what causes that?

Will be interesting to see if that sound is there after cleaning again and cleaning the MAF sensor, since I forgot to clean that and only cleaned the MAP sensor.

I also had the left side back by the muffler hanger weld break that I assumed was the rattle when starting as was much louder, though I wound up using two stainless steel zip ties for the last year or so and has been working well. The alternate plan for that is a stainless steel exhaust pipe clamp if the zip ties fail.

 

Well, yeah, totally confused isn't my subject matter expertise... though can happen. The sequence of events and odd similar situations didn't help things.

Incomplete combustion is my thought since both times the misfires occurred, was when I was on a incline where that approximate tablespoon of oil in the intake manifold courtesy of the PCV Valve being bad and maybe the overfill situation increasing pressure, might have flowed some more oil than is typically input into the combustion chambers and thus out the exhaust ports.

I may be totally wrong, though I don't understand how oil and gas would be in the EGR Valve circuit otherwise.

The donor intake and EGR parts circuits carbon buildup was dry like soot and mine was like moist soot more having noticeable oil with the smell of gas on the paper towel after sitting. Maybe there is a vacuum and venturi like effect where at times the oil and gas can be sucked from the intake to the exhaust via the intake and EGR circuit directly in brief spurts? Anyways, I'm not visualizing.

I do not know, totally speculation from a no way mechanical engineer.

A dynamic diagram of the pressures and temps in each location of the engine would be super neat to see and study, like some sort of image with the metrics overlaid in each location where one can toggle the time like on a slider control.

Drain the oil through the PCV Valve Plate (bung) using a hose was just a thought, whether feasibly valid or not, I didn't try.

Here's my dipstick with the strange bend that's never really been an issue for me, other than when the overfill situation concern.



However, this side of the reading threw me off and still makes me cringe being at the higher level. Same goes with the bend design.


This was the first time I've topped off the level more than I should.

 

I probably shouldn't have taken for a day drive around without cleaning the rest of the EGR circuit (valve and cooler thoroughly).

Started up typical with no more than the usual range of engine sounds until started raining out.

Then after the rain for the most part let up and was after sunset after leaving the grocery store where temp was dropping into the 50's, the engine started with not a bad vibration as I've felt in the past, though had the rattling more for a few seconds and went away with nothing noticeable since. I drove again to the gas station mid day today and didn't notice anything when starting after sitting overnight.

Seems after that Techron and maybe my overfilling, the engine is getting more humidity sensitive, possibly due to a slow coolant leak? Then again, in a simple world ideally may be due to possibly me not cleaning the EGR Cooler out and EGR Valve thoroughly in detail as @ChapmanF noted after reading some more this link: https://priuschat.com/posts/3349454

Cleaning the EGR Valve to the point where the valve is moving very smoothly. Seems to be needed as well to assure the resistances stay within specs and don't cause another code for the EGR motor.

I'll also plan on the potential for changing the head gasket with a Felpro based on Gasket Masters, though seems the OEM lasted this long ~282k miles (verified and without fatigue before posting this time). Which gasket parts do you use or really no big difference between the Toyota and Felpro?

Will plan to check the piston positions and mating surfaces as well, mainly the head. Seems I read replacing the head bolts is a good idea while at it. First when I have the wiper cowling and all out when doing the rest of the EGR Circuit, I'll plan to inspect the spark plugs and get one of the USB borescopes out to see what the inside of the cylinders and pistons look like. Seems I read there are resistance values for the coils that can be tested as well.

In regards to planning for the head gasket, was wondering about checking timing related parts as well while at it, any thoughts?

Wondering if there is a resistance and other checks for the water pump to verify performance?

Seems like would be a good time to plan the B12 soak protocol as well when apart, any thoughts?

 

I still haven't swapped the head gasket and in the few thousand miles of still driving occasionally, I've only one time had a 2 to 3 second vibration rattle that caused misfire, where I started driving and was actually moving where at that time the P0302 engine code was given for the check engine light. Otherwise, seems lately the only time I hear the rattle is for no more than 2 seconds and typically about a second when I do. Doesn't always happen at first, though seems to after I've warmed the car up after the about half hour drive to the store does routinely on startup. I make sure now to give a little gas to start the engine before moving her. I finally recorded the startup sound as well and uploaded here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tIPymP1G3xc

Doesn't seem the "death rattle" is nearly as bad as the videos on Youtube and never has been except those two times prior to cleaning when I first reported the check engine light with P0301 and P0304 codes.

Even so and following through with plans, I ordered and received CTA Tools 9292 10mm Toyota Headbolt Wrench 1/2" Square Drive from eBay. Didn't think I needed the 8mm one yet for the 2006 head, though was tempting to get both from Amazon.

Decided to practice the disassembly on the 150K yard parts 2011 donor car that I've removed some parts from already as prior discussed in the thread.

Wound up purchasing the timing cover with many of the internals (timing chain, tensioner, guides, sprocket, thermostat) as well as the complete head assembly to practice testing to specification and possibly if all looks good using to make for a quicker swap when I do the head gasket change. I can return in 30 days as well if anything is bad. Amazing what those parts are selling for on eBay alone.

@ASRDogman, @ChapmanF, et.al. Not that I want to be cheap, as I'd rather be more cost effective, though wondering what the bare minimum gaskets to swap are, if I decided to only change what looks like needs to be?

 

I know, at times I need a therapist and at the least this support group therapy.

In my mind I figure I'll most likely return the yard parts for a refund and at the very least have the preparatory heads up know how to remove and inspect to see if within tolerance.

Experience is definitely worth the $2 yard entry fee and cost for like what would be a college textbook that can be returned with the only loss being gas money and vehicle wear on my 2006 Prius.

Plus this last trip I scored a 2009 Corolla sway bar for an upgrade since has the 40mm I guess PU spacer lift with Rubber Shocks with MasterPro struts all around for now and a drivers side control arm to compare to the 2006 Prius control arm I removed sizes. The control arm will be returned as well as the sway bar linkage that came attached since was being stubborn. I also scored a pair of actual Toyota Prius rear struts from a 2007 that will stay if everything checks out good. I already owned a 2012 AWD Matrix set and have been waiting for these to compare the mounts to as well as everything else to see if can use as-is or will only use the Matrix springs on the Prius strut package like with the front I did for later install.

Analysis paralysis is not uncommon for me. Even so, I do return items quite routinely if they aren't used, sold or meeting specs.

Finally, thinking the job will go quicker being I've hands on felt the "what to do and what not to do" situations. That is not uncommon for me to do in the yard and not bring items back with. Though does happen I take home more than I can use.

I appreciate the motivational support.

 

I'm guessing since the Toyota tags look new, they've been replaced and are definitely a higher quality part even used. The new aftermarket parts seem like junk and go bad quickly. I've not only read online and spoke with others..., I've messaged on Facebook Marketplace inquiring about why selling newer struts where was noted was given used ones that were Toyota or KYB and those performed better. Tighter specs and higher quality reads and sounds like.

I actually scored a free set of 78,000 mile Toyota 2014 struts and shocks, since the lister replaced as a PM. Free set of Toyota pads as well with plenty of life on em.

Mainly, I wanted to compare parts and document online. I was also thinking if not good, to replace the PU 40mm spacers, I'd make welded steel lift spacers to go on top of the strut mount using the old Toyota or KYB strut mount I'd keep (returning the rest) for the top piece and either the cutout from the chassis where mounts for the lower piece or a custom cut plate with tube welded in between. Similar to the PriusOffRoad and PriusOverlander designs, though homemade. Was thinking if I found metal that was good, possibly using the rear axle tube as the spacer piece. Though typically, that metal is pretty rough on the gen2's. Beats spending ~$350 on a set.

The gen3's are easier to cutout the materials from the chassis and rear axle (using two sets of spring seats cut from rear axle). The gen2's chassis on the front and back have like a brace gusset like piece that complicates the cut, so haven't performed yet since I'm usually overheated (I don't sweat literally) by the time I get to and isn't a priority yet to go just do since a few cars around steadily.