Kind of lost suspension wise and need help

What action causes the popping sound? extension, compression, rotation for turning or....?

You might look into renting a set of Chassis Ears™ and doing a series of test drives to narrow down the location of the sound.

Problem 2 reads like it is an interaction between the electrical regenerative braking and the hydraulic service brakes. From your description it isn't doing a clean handover like it should. Apart from consulting the repair manual I'm not sure what to suggest.

 

That sounds like rubber bushing "creaking" they can also cause the metal inner sleeve to slip at the ends

A common cause is DIYers tightening all the bolts with the suspension "hanging"

Loosen the suspension bolts and lower the car so the wheels or suspension is weight bearing
Bounce it up and down a couple of times then re-tighten the bolts while the weight is still on them.

Aussie Ford Falcons are the worst vehicle for this when replacing inner bushes [ we place a jack under the outer ball-joint and lift the vehicle before we tighten the bolts.

The answer to your second question is ...........Heat warpage causes buckled rotors [brakes turn kinetic energy into heat]
On Race cars we prefer to skim the rotors rather than replace them, because they have already been exposed to a couple of heat cycles [new ones will warp again]
We always use old pads with the new rotors or old rotors with new pads [to bed the brakes in]

That Lurching feeling is usually common on rear drum brakes [usually from the park brake in the same position and surface rust over night]
Pull the drums off and give it a good sanding [I use a flap drum sander in a cordless]

Warped front rotors are usually felt in the pedal going up/down [thickness] or in the steering [buckled]

Loose wheel bearings will cause "pad knock-off" which will cause the brakes to feel like they need bleeding [one pump of the pedal removes the clearances]
That is not your case here.