Can EGR Valve Part # 25620-37110 Swap With 25620-37120 Installed Already In 2013?

Can the 25620-37110 EGR Valve part number version can be swapped in to replace a 25620-37120 part number already installed?

I lucked out finding a yard part number 54 ending part intake manifold, though the EGR circuit valve is the previous revision part number.

I had a P0301 and P0304 error code thrown with check engine light after two starts with the cold weather like vibration and rattle that I've only seen before when my engine oil was low I think. This was after running two full tanks with a bottle of Techron in each tank and then an oil overfill situation I didn't drain I suspect being oil and gas got into the EGR Pipe and Valve exit creating the sludge.

~278K miles on and looks like Toyota must have swapped or cleaned already prior once maybe under contract service, warranty or recall.

PCV Valve was stuck for the most part with a few hard carbon deposits in the tube and on the bottom where the PCV tube connects to the intake.

Maybe a tbsp dark oil under the throttle and not entirely plugged amounts of sludge in the EGR Pipe and Intake Manifold EGR ports as well as in the head until the areas where the injectors spray which look either shiny or browned, though nothing close to the sludge elsewhere.

I didn't verify the cylinders intake and egr circuits relationship to sludge and condition just yet.

Came in for torque values and thoughts on EGR Valve swapping with the previous part number since I was hoping I'd not have to clean the EGR Valve or Cooler, though have to or swap with the donor parts since that oil-gas-sludge is going to harden if I don't.

Would be nice to be able to swap out the 25620-37120 with the already cleaner and easier to clean 25620-37110 EGR Valve now, then only clean the OG parts at a later time.

 

OK, wondering if you happen to have the references by chance. No big deal if you don't. Good to know. I see there are four versions, with the two numbers and with a dash or not. Looks like the 20 one without the dash is the latest and the 10 one without the dash is the first for 2010 only from what I could glean from online parts catalog searches.

No, I got to the point of getting the cleaner intake manifold back on and will clean the throttle next.

What oil do you recommend for the valve joint, if any?

I'll remove the EGR circuit after the throttle body is on so to prevent stuff from falling into the intake circuit.

I'll report back with the EGR valve situation and try to post the videos I took next in the thread.

 

Here's my unedited videos with all the vapors and fumes fogging my mind doing this thing finally.

2013 Prius Gen 3 jafinch78 Youtube vids

 

That's what I was thinking. Pro tip, or preaching to the team, from a guy or two that works in the yards was to get as much connected to whatever you're getting and see if they charge you up front or not for everything when you tell them. Literally was just told that at LKQ where I was interested in strut mounts only and the gals said they'd have to charge me the same there for the whole assembly, whether no spring or shock part or with everything. LKQ doesn't seem to have any service flexibility in pricing. Other yards will let me return everything and only charge me for the one part I removed to keep like the strut mount. One yard told me to ask around since different front desk people will charge different prices, though that's the scrap metals yards with vehicles.

Anyways, back to where I was heading, point is there was a 50% off sale at the yard that's good to me and I got the good deal package on the "EGR" pricing for the EGR valve and cooler with hoses and clips as well as the "Intake Manifold" that included the EGR pipe and everything connected other than the air intake box and tube. That was my plan to begin with I think like you did, though will keep my eye out maybe for the newer EGR Valve since there are resistance specs for and I think those will resale if tests out good and no "ski rutts."

Update is I decided to avoid the removal of the EGR Cooler and valve for now today until I assemble the EGR Pipes back on and move to the driveway, since was working in the back under a tree. For some reason I'm thinking if I have anything more oil related coming through the EGR circuit, I'd rather flow that out now with the cleaned intake, cleaned EGR pipes (I removed the aluminum one connected to the valve and cleaned as well as what I could get up inside the valve stem backside) and new PCV Valve with clean hose.

Then I'll be on the cement pad to jack up and better get under to change the oil as well as remove the EGR Valve and Cooler since for some reason I was thinking I could remove the EGR Valve separate and I'm not seeing how to access the one nut closer to the head without removing the whole EGR valve and cooler assembly.

I did get excited seeing the sootier dryer material in the aluminum pipe cast connected to the EGR Valve body thinking oil only came into the EGR Pipe via the intake, though when I started picking out the crud around the EGR Valve stem I found some not as dry sootier residue that got me thinking again that oil did get through the exhaust and into the EGR circuit. Almost thought didn't, though wishful thinking. Cleans really easy however once easier access is attained.

 

[QUOTE="Mendel Leisk, post: 3350627, member: 69191my strategy is to get the EGR cooler out and soaking in Oxy solution first, then deal with the rest. I’ve not resorted to pressure washer, but it apparently makes for a speedy finale.

unless time is pressing, I wouldn’t bother with spare anything up front.[/QUOTE]

In my situation, I'm surprised how super easy is to clean. Granted the Techron two full tank cycles prior to the oil and gas from the misfires might have made the cleaning easier.

What are your thoughts on using the EGR Valve Part # 25620-37110 instead of the already installed 25620-37120 newer part number?

 

From what I glean from the catalogs, appears there are the following:

25627-37010 EGR Valve Gasket here in the U.S. from what I'm finding for all below and 2012 - 2014 Camry Hybrid LE, SE & XLE and 2011-2017 Lexus CT200h B & E

Glad you mentioned the part number since is an interesting potential source for parts I didn't even consider and I've seen in the yards more than once. Plus reminded me I wanted to somewhere online document the range of part numbers I found when searching to see what goes to what.

25620-37110 2010-2013 E, G, L, S Prius and 2012-2013 Prius V
2562037110 Supersedes prior part # and is for 2010 E, G, L, S Prius
25620-37120 Replaces prior revision and is for 2010 - 2015 all Prius and 2016-17 all Prius V
2562037110 Supersedes prior part # and fits 2011 - 2017 all Prius and 2012 - 2017 Prius V

Appears all the above might go with the 2011-2017 Lexus CT200h B & E trim packages as well.

 

Well, I opted for lazy man speculating the PCV Valve was the main cause being I've had that funky low speed acceleration little rattle for a while now, especially on warmer days with the AC on and the battery drained. Where to stop that I let off the throttle and either feather the gas or if seems ok, give er the lead foot.

I assume the oil caused the vibration "death rattle" or "cold start rattle" with the two starts on the incline probably since the oil under the throttle body flowed into the heads directly and give cylinders 1 and 4 issues with that unburned oil overburden, where the oil and gas also flowed into the EGR circuit.

Maybe the post Techron prior to the above vibration when accelerating was random or effected the trim or something with that first fresh Top Tier full fill. Maybe coupled with the PCV Valve outstanding issue or maybe the rain combined? Anyways...

So in summary:
1. Swapped intake manifold along with gaskets with clean parts car same part number.
2. Replaced PCV Valve with new same part number
3. Replaced PCV Valve hose with parts car same part number
4. Cleaned 2013 EGR Pipe and gasket
5. Cleaned 2013 EGR Valve Pipe and gasket
6. Cleaned 2013 EGR Valve insides not the best, though picked out what I was able to and vacuumed with a small hose inside as well
7. Cleaned the Air Filter that had a few gnats or maybe black flies by the intake tube side
8. Cleaned the 2013 MAP Sensor with MAF Cleaner (Will clean MAF next when have time, since forgot.)
9, Cleaned the 2013 Throttle Valve and Inner Walls (I forgot to lube so may go back and do that.)
9. Assembled everything in not the above order
10. Test drove with a very minimal rattle with no vibration I noticed when I started, that went away quickly. Maybe due to not disconnecting the battery?
11. Test drove around the country block to see if I noticed anything, which I did not other than maybe smoother performance, especially after coming back to read codes.
12. Saw P0301 code cleared itself I think though was listed and P0304 had not yet. Was that the start rattle?
13. Cleared codes and test drove. Also, I see P0304 is a permanent code, engine light went off and stayed off.

Now for the other car that needs, or can use the AF Ratio Sensor related codes cleared and engine light, the AF Ratio Sensor swapped with my yard finds to see if any of those are good. Seems I logged on with my alter ego for the 2006 login regarding and have thought about more in regards to where the gen 3 AF Ratio sensor might work since the controls would still try to adjust to Zero, though might be way slower due to the lower sensor mA range of the gen 3 AF Ratio sensor. Where-as the gen 2 has a considerably wider current range for the same or similar tested values.

I'll report back if I notice anything a funk with the 2013.

 

Sure, though my thought was exhaust gas laden with oil and gas from the incomplete combustion was how was present. My thinking is that's how the otherwise typically dryer soot residue built up in the EGR circuit was not dry, as was found in the donor vehicle, and was oilier and smelled of gasoline.

On another note, was wondering about using TriFlow Lubricant on the throttle body valve stem. Does anyone use oil to lubricate the valve stem?

Seems might be useful, where-as, in the EGR Valve stem the temps are too high and cleaning is the only option I'm guessing.

 

Time constraints. No EGR related codes found. Curious to see how vehicle performed and circuit looks like after using as-left.

Also, my thought was I wasn't sure if there might be an overfill situation and the car was in the backyard on the lawn and I didn't want to work on from underneath. For some reason the thought that the oil level being sat not started for two nights, at the full mark with oil on the bend each time I checked even though there was a gap between the top dot and bend oil that was clean, made me still think that I might need to drain the oil and oil might still flow through the engine causing a misfire and maybe come through the EGR Circuit and need to be cleaned again. Probably loony thoughts?

I do plan to unmount the EGR Valve and Cooler to clean or possibly swap in the clean Cooler from the yard.

The EGR Valve seemed easy to clean from underneath, so thinking will be quick to clean the stock one that is installed now.

I might also leave the coolant lines connected if I can get away with and perform the pressure washer method, albeit I might screw the Cooler to a 2x4 or other board to better handle when power washing the gunk out that I'm thinking will come out easy with like a contractor bag on the backside with the open end facing down and a hole in the bottom where the EGR Cooler comes out to prevent splatter everywhere.

Does anyone lube the throttle body valve stem sides? Seems I read somewhere someone doing.

I was also thinking I'd be disassembling again to install the Oil Catch Can once I finalize the design. I'll then clean again since curious how soiled with the state I left causes.