Gen 3 Motor Issues - Piston Soak - Blowby Pressure

I have a dragy. I can run with and without and see if there is a difference on performance. lol
But this isn't really why i drive this car so I don't really care. I mostly just pulse and glide and stick to 2000 rpm etc...
Yeah im sure the car adjusts timing as best it can to run without egr.

EGR delete:
Have the 12v battery connected
Make sure the car has ran with the egr connected at least once.
Go under the hood and unplug the electrical connector to the electronic egr valve.
Dash will throw a p0403
2nd portion of the EGR delete:
clean your EGR system extremely thouroughly and make sure it functions
you can plug it back in for emissions testing
you then get an obd2 scanner and clear the codes and drive around until the obd monitor sets to ready
go do your emissions testing
Get your test done with a pass and then unplug it again when you leave.
Suddenly you never have to clean the egr system ever again
Notes:
If you ever unplug the 12v battery, you will have to go plug the egr connector back in, drive for a couple seconds, and then unplug the electrical connector on the egr valve again.
You have to do that after every 12v disconnect as the car will high idle around 1200-1500 rpm and will get confused on when to shut off.

PCV wise the stock layout pulls from behind the maf and returns air behind the maf. This is so the air is all calculated for. I just sealed the nipples off on the air intake so its a completely sealed intake separate from the crankcase ventilation ports now. Crankcase has to deal with windage but the reason why we have the ventilation system is the pistons produce blowby since the rings aren't perfect and pressurize the crankcase. If you go disable the pcv on your car and plug all of it off it'll just blow whatever seals it can out to release the pressure. So we do cv or pcv to manage pressure and keep that from happening. Also, water vapor and liquids can escape when the oil is hot.
Both my upper and lower hose are connected to a vented catch can. My crankcase is not connected to my intake anymore.

 

Honestly its really not bad. I've rode in diesels and 350 powered boats that made want to throw up. This here is hardly a thing.

Yeah i wouldn't do anything past unplugging the electrical connector and getting a simple obd2 plug in scanner to read and clear codes and check for obd2 readiness.
We don't want to spoof or delete anything. Just run in safe mode without egr.
I think a guy on here gutted his egr valve to spoof it and it made his car run like a donkey.

 

p0403 is an egr malfunction code that results in safe mode. when you go to an emissions testing center they will plug in their monitor and check for obd ready or not ready. If it doesn't say ready it means you fail and need to go drive around until it sets to ready. most obd2 scanners will tell if you are ready or not on the first screen. I don't have torque though.

Also, I forgot to mention. I haven't had any start up knocks at all with the open air catch can. I almost forgot that was an issue with priuses.

 

Update on the photos post cleaning: This is after 7,950 miles. You can see since this is an atkinson cycle engine and it pushes some of the intake charge out of the intake valves during the combustion cycle to decrease the compression ratio a bit to reduce pumping losses while keeping the expansion ratio high to increase efficiency, the car gets quite a bit of oil in the intake ports and manifold still. Pistons rings aren't perfect and I assume they still have a bit of clogging on them. Also, I suspect the valve guide seals probably weep a bit.
Photos:
1. Throttle Body:

2. Cylinder 1 Intake Port:

3. Cylinder 2 Intake Port:

4. Cylinder 3 Intake Port:

5. Cylinder 4 Intake Port:

6. Bottom of Intake Manifold:

7. Intake Manifold Port 1:

8. Intake Manifold Port 2:

9. Intake Manifold Port 3:

10. Intake Manifold Port 4:

11. After Cleaning Intake Ports With a quick wipe of e85, brushing the injectors with e85, and cleaning the intake manifold with a quick swish of e85.

Car is a bit dirty so you excuse all of that. It got a bit dirty as I was pulling it apart, but I got it all cleaned off and reassembled no problem.
I'm pretty happy with the results so far. I also swapped to Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Syn 0w-20 for this next round. Hoping the slight addition of seal conditioner in the high mileage formulation will help swell the seals a bit to create a bit less weep on my seals like the valve guide seals.

 

Yup although I'm just checking we are on the same page. The oil inside the intake is from the combustion process allowing the intake valve to be opened while compressing the first bit of the intake charge so it can be pushed back into the intake manifold to be sucked into a separate and more willing cylinder to reduce pumping losses and increase efficiency through the decrease of the compression pumping losses and effective compression ratio while keeping the extremely high expansion ratio of this engine. The oil is the result of the Atkinson process as described above in combination with the imperfect seal of the piston rings, and possibly the valve seals leaking, as they do on a car that is 13 years old. All in all the actual oil consumption is well within spec and the carbon build up is also way down! Also, my engine is so dirty because this was a great lakes car when I bought it so I have sprayed the car with lubricant oil to contain and stop the rust present all around the chassis and engine bay. The number one killer of old reliable toyotas was rust so I do the same process of coating the prius to stop rust. It does a great job like the waxed frames GM uses but it can get dirty and stick to road debris and look ugly.
So far so we have learned that oil consumption and oil in the intake can come from MANY different sources.
Seems like to sum up the thread along with EGR maintenance these cars could very likely benefit from piston soaks.

 

Another oil change update: 5300 miles and 16oz of oil burned. So 5300mi/.5qt= 1quart of oil burned every 10,600 miles. Still in A- territory for oil consumption. Thats pretty good I will take it and no issues at all. Car runs like new. I have noticed since its hotter than sin outside the oil catch can stays bone dry.

 

Update again: 5,550 miles on this oil change. Supertech 0w-20 high mileage. Oil in: 141oz, oil out: 133oz. Extremely impressive considering my mix of driving was 50% interstate, 50% city for this mix, all warm weather until probably the last two weeks.
So the car burned 5500mi/0.25qt= 1 quart of oil burned every 22,000 miles. Maybe the high mileage oil finally is in full effect. But heck yeah went from burning 0.5qt oil change to 0.25qt per oil change. Oil changed on the same level surface every time for even comparison.
MPG avg split mix driving was ~51mpg for this change using ac, driving interstate etc...

Exciting considering at one point the car had an egr knock, needed egr cleaning, brakes were about to lock up, car was chugging oil and getting like 41mpg at peak low a couple years ago.

Keep up on the maintenance and go above and beyond folks! Its worth it. Even if random people disagree with ya.

 

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