Gen 2 engine rebuild thread.

Luckily the block from a newer 1.5 Yaris is a direct match per Toyota so if worse comes to worse, I can find a bare low mileage yaris block for around $300.

Setting the valve clearances doesn't look fun at all.

 

I think Toyota used to use bucket lifers with removable shims.

Anyway, here's some info from the dealership

1. The 04-09 Prius Block, just the block itself, will interchange with the 1.5L blocks from 04-06 Scion XA and XB, 03-05 Toyota Echo, and 06-10 Toyota Yaris. I am not sure why the newer Yaris 1.5 blocks won't work, they look somewhat identical.

2. One of the camshafts, can't remember which, will interchange with the Regular 04-09 Prius AND the Prius C 1.5L from 12-19. The other just fits the 04-09 Prius.

3. The crankshaft ONLY works in the 04-09 Prius. The connecting rods will interchange with the cars listed in #1. The pistons will only fit the 04-09 Prius 1.5. Same goes for the flywheel (no starter teeth).

4. The cylinder head, the head only, no valves, no camshafts will interchange with the vehicles in #1. The intake and exhaust valves will interchange with the vehicles in #1 PLUS the Yaris and Prius C 1.5L from 2012 to 2018.

5. So with this info, you cannot swap a head from anything but another Prius from 04-09 unless you want to adjust the valve lash and swap one of the cams.

The timing chain cover is also unique to the 04-09 Prius.

Maybe someone else can chime in on what changed with the block from the 2010 to 2011 Yaris is different. The bolt pattern of mounting, sensor location, etc looks the same to me. Since the bare head from the later yaris interchanges, the bolting of the head itself would be unchanged as well.

The Crankshaft pulley is Unique to the Gen 2, the Water Pump pulley is not.

 

So there are several sellers on eBay selling re-manufactured heads, such as this.



..and they say the head is the same. I call BS. The camshafts are different on the Prius to achieve the different compression ratio. Yaris cams WILL NOT WORK.

 

The belly of the beast! I almost crapped myself thinking I busted off a piece of aluminum near the bottom, but it's made that way in case the rear main leaks oil or the transmission leaks on the output shaft. It's oddly very coarse on that casting area.

The wiring harness gets in the way, but I'm not sure how hard it would be to disconnect it, there's still a bunch of connectors near the transmission area. I plan on spraying CRC connector cleaner in every terminal before connecting it, in case some dust/dirt gets in.


This ground wire don't look good, but I highly doubt I could remove that bolt without busting it off. I might check it with an ohm meter. If it's not getting a good ground, I might drill a small hole near it with a self taping screw and crimp a new ground on.


I'm also debating taking the transmission out, and putting the engine in first, because it's a hell of a lot easier to put the pulleys on outside of the car, than putting them on between the frame horn and front of the engine.

 

Gasket kit came today and I'm a bit upset. The water pump and intake manifold gaskets are just painted metal. Which isn't OEM AT ALL.

There is also no rear main seal for whatever reason.

 

Found some stuff cheaper on Rockauto close out.

 

Pic from the shop, cleaned and honed.

 

While the engine will be another 1.5-2 weeks, took some pics of new parts today.

New oil pressure and temp senders. These are pretty universal across different makes, so I'm gonna have to see if mine takes the washer.



New main bearings, made in Japan.


New Felpro Cylinder Head Bolt Washers

Re-manufactured and flow tested injectors.


New Denso Iridium TT plugs.

New connecting rod bearings, made in Israel.

New OEM rings.

Also took the throttle body apart, cleaned it, and greased the gears with dielectric grease (recommended by an electrical engineer as it's plastic safe) .

 

So in so far, on just the rebuilding parts alone I have about $430 in it, if I had ordered the rings from Rock Auto when they had them in stock, it would be closer to $390.
Labor from the engine shop is prob going to be around $400, this is doing the valve lash adjustments and assembly myself.

Prior to the pandemic, Prius engines ran about $300-$500. Today, most lower mile (under 150k) Prius engines average $950 within several states of me. A place like LKQ (the network a lot of reputable shops use for used parts) charges around $1100-$1300 for a tested lower mile Prius Engine.

I think since the pandemic, it may be a better deal to just rebuild your engine. Especially if you have a secondary vehicle to provide for the downtime. Especially if you have a Gen2 in an area where rust isn't common and want to keep yours going a long time.

 

Welp another delay.

Toyota FSM mentions the main "service bearings" having "claws". Wth is a "service part?"
From the factory engine, the main bearings don't have those claws.


The bearings I received from Mahle/Clevite have these claws.

Problem is, the tab/claw that sticks out, when installed pushes on the crankshaft, to the point it won't turn by hand, at all.

These are the main bearings depicted by DNJ, note no claws.


There is no way, short of using a die grinder to notch the block and main bearing caps, that these will work. So it won't be until Friday before I get the correct main bearings.

 

Here is what main bearing caps look like that have those notches. This is from a Toyota 2005 Rav4 2.2L.


Now look at ones from the 1.5L in the Prius.




There is absolutely no way those ones from Clevite would work, and I'm going to have some words with them tomorrow...