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Refrigerant Replacement

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by C-in-DC, Apr 10, 2023.

  1. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    this was very helpful. Thanks. Particularly your last note.

    I got Nylog and Poe oil in a can. In The videos I’ve seen showing how to replace the compressor, they usually fill the compressor with oil prior to reinstalling for vacuum. I have to check @lech auto air conditionin videoe again and read the manual to understand that step properly as it appears to be paramount.

    the correct POE oil amount into the system will likely be in the service manual procedure I’ll look up. If it can be drawn into the system with a vacuum then I assume the compressor doesn’t need to be filled prior to reinstalling.
     
  2. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    haven’t looked into replacing the txv. I’ll check the parts diagram. Part 88515? Is it accessible from the engine bay? That would explain why the dealer quoted $1200 if they gotta go into the console that far.

    Found a mechanic that’ll do everything for $200 in VA. But that’s just based on a short conversation over the phone. He’ll probably want more once it’s at his shop.
     
    #42 C-in-DC, Apr 30, 2023
    Last edited: Apr 30, 2023
  3. Priipriii

    Priipriii Member

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    So one of my lines was torn on my prius a long time ago and all my fridgerant escaped. I went the cheap route and filled the whole system with a bottle I found at autozone that specificially advertised it was safe on hybrids, which I can only assume it had the right oil in it as it didnt really reveal that on the back or online. But it also didnt mention the use of pag oil like all the rest of the bottles.

    Its been working for a year now and i had no problems and the pump hasnt broke. To bleed out the air in the system, all i did was poke the high pressure valve open for a few seconds while I was pouring the stuff in from the low pressure valve. Not sure if that helped much or not, but its better than nothing.

    By no means is this the proper way or do i recommend anyone to do it, but its an option if you're feeling risky.
     
  4. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Not an option because the system has been open since January
     
  5. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    If you asked the questions and heard the right answers, go for it.
     
  6. lech auto air conditionin

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    Proper procedures after compressor burn out watch this video. I very rarely give a video thumbs up or approval on YouTube but this one is definitely an exception.. everything that I’ve been teaching in my videos that I was taught when I was young from my father is inside this video. Well, not everything they had to keep the video short so they left out some stuff but it’s good enough..


     
  7. lech auto air conditionin

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    For all automotive technicians on PriusChat, if you’re deciding to buy your first refrigerant leak detector or thinking about purchasing a new refrigerant leak detector here are the two gold standards without any competition on the market. Especially when it comes to snap on trucks MAC trucks or Matco trucks or Amazon or eBay refrigerant leak detectors are just not in this league..

     
  8. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    Thank you. This was also very helpful. I'm still looking for your video in which you discharge oil into the system. I could be mixing it up the other 50+ videos on the subject by other technicians.
     
  9. lech auto air conditionin

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    and see if I can remember to include that in part of a recent video that I’ll put up in the next week or two or three are used a little metal cylinder for a oil injection usually the oil could be injected on the low side under pressure or while you’re pulling a vacuum

    You just have to be careful where you inject the oil that your service port is up high and not down low in a valley where oil if you’re doing vacuum and then you hook up your vacuum pump and hose and suck the oil back out but because your service fitting is at the lowest point on some cars . Prius the suction side service port is usually a high.

    I think some of the words came messed up because I’m using voice to text while I’m driving on the freeway without taking my eyes off the road to pre-scan and read
     
  10. lech auto air conditionin

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  11. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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  12. lech auto air conditionin

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  13. lech auto air conditionin

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  14. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    In the video I’m referring to you used this injector. I believe it was when you did a Prius c that lost refrigerant due to an accident. You pulled the oil in with a vacuum pump I think. You also said something in the video about not using gauges to charge the refrigerant and a direct hose connection instead. I’ll have to watch it again because it was a multi-video but I couldn’t find part 2.
     
    #54 C-in-DC, May 2, 2023
    Last edited: May 2, 2023
  15. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    On Page 313 the condenser oil capacity is
    Capacity:
    40 cc (1.35 fl. oz.) ie 38.27 grams

    on Page 296
    Standard:
    (Oil capacity inside the new electric inverter compressor: 130 to 145 cc (4.4 to 4.9 fl. oz.)) - (Remaining oil amount in the removed electric inverter compressor) = (Oil amount to be removed from the new compressor when replacing)124.738 grams to 138.913 grams
     
  16. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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  17. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    It looks like it. But if its not broke don't fix it. I think you are over thinking this. Same with the oil.

    IMG_1994.jpeg
     
  18. Paladain55

    Paladain55 Active Member

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    I will also add that we don't follow the suggestions to the T if said customer is up for it and the possible consequences. Some folks just don't have it and are doing what they can with what they have. We had a Ranger that we fixed that went for years, maybe a decade without air conditioning. So to start off we just put in a 12oz bottle of leak detector dyed refrigerant from walmart. It was enough to run the car for a day or two and find the leak which was at the high side side shrader valve. The car was just too rusty to remove the condensor without fear of turning into a much larger job. So since we found the leak was the shrader valve, we replaced it for $8, vacummed the system to -30 and let it sit for 24 hours. Came back and it didn't lose any pressure, so we vacummed it overnight, charged it up with 19oz of r134a or whatever it needed, and years later its still doing great. With that moisture ridden compressor oil. I assume the longevity and performance will be affected since water vapor in the system doesn't react like the refrigerant we want and it can corrode the system. Ford uses like galvanized steel lines which is all just a big yikes. The aluminum lines on all of my toyotas still look only a couple years old regardless of age.
    So honestly after a couple times of just vacumming, fixing leaks, and leaving the oil and components in, and recharging the system with refrigerant we have had success every time so far. Try it out.
     
  19. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    I don’t plan on replacing the TXV if it’s not necessary. This question was for information purposes only. I look before I leap.
     
  20. C-in-DC

    C-in-DC Member

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    the receiver drier is harder than the oil and refrigerant. I detest any plumbing tasks on this vehicle because of bleeding.

    replacing the oil is the right move because the swamp isn’t just a cliche political term. Part of DC was built on a drained swamp and it’s surrounded by valley streams. It’s very humid in this area.
     
    Paladain55 likes this.