Gen 2 engine rebuild thread.

You might have better luck looking for the correct tool, a 10 mm double-hex. There's one in this set:

https://ctatools.com/products/9295

[Edit: I copied most of the info here from a Gen 3 post, where the correct tool for the 2ZR engine is a 10 mm double hex. I just looked in an old Gen 1 manual for the 1NZ instructions, and it says 8 mm double hex is the right tool there. So there is probably a similar situation where people sometimes use a 9 mm triple square and it kinda fits.]

When people use the wrong tool, the wrong tool they usually use is a 12 mm triple-square. Triple square and double hex have the same number of points, of course, and the 12 triple-square kinda fits, but if you draw both you can see the triple-square is too pointy, and won't engage the sides of the head bolt recess as well as the correct 10 mm double hex.



When you say the "clutch", what part do you mean, and why do you want to take it off?

 

For second gen, Toyota recommends an 8mm bi-hexagon wrench:



Attached is the full engine chapter from Repair Manual:

 

At least you can mail order:

8mm double hex

 

The transmission input damper is bolted to the flywheel with six bolts near its outer circumference.

If, with the damper off, the flywheel is still in the way of your engine stand, the flywheel is bolted to the crankshaft, with six bolts clustered in near the center. That's a pretty critical joint, with torque requirements, I don't remember if the bolts are supposed to be reused, etc.

But it seems to me that the appeal of an engine stand is in how it makes working on the engine convenient for you, and if yours is going to make you take off an input damper and flywheel just to use it (assuming you don't otherwise have some reason to be taking those off), it's not really contributing much to convenience.

Can you buy some longer mounting bolts and, say, pipe nipples (for rigidity) and mount the engine the damper's depth away from the stand?

 

Amazon free ship $29
CTA Tools 9295 2 Pc. Toyota/Lexus Head Bolt Wrench Set

 

Having not yet popped apart a Gen 2 engine, the caps themselves are the bearing surface? They're aluminum? Seeing the wear marks/burrs/pits, are you concerned about roughness? It looks like some of the scratches have burs at the end or does it only look rough in the photo?

Are the journals scored also?

 

Just a warning, lol...I'll be following this thread and may have a lot of questions because I recently purchased a nice little 2009 Touring with an engine that failed due to oil starvation. It's actually seized. I'll likely be doing an engine swap, but still exploring options. Unfortunately its a bit down my 'to do' list for at least a few months. I have one more car to do a brake actuator and then a dozen other minor jobs on that car and the one I did the actuator on last weekend. Busy busy busy, but looking forward to the engine job!

 

Please create a thread, and post more of those quality pictures so that we can follow the rebuild.

 

Or just revise the title on this one?