Battery Pack #2 -16V and #3 is +24V...WTH, help please

I cannot find anything on the internet about this wide variation in voltage in #2 and #3.

As you can see on the detailed list that there is a wide variation in #2 and #3. That's obviously not normal. The code kicked to me was P3000 without any detail (other than 123). There is a P0420 code, and C1241 (low or high voltage). These seem to be downstream problems, no?

Also look at the the polarization from #1 and #2. They are exactly opposite in their output. Can someone explain?

When I reset the codes by disconnecting the negative 12v terminal the car will ride seemingly endlessly with the CE light on but not red triangle. When I reset the codes in Techstream the CE and red triangle both come back on within 5 miles.

Can anyone shed light here?

Should I replace packs #2 and #3?

Should I check connectors, corrosion, or perhaps superficial damage?

 

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Thank you for the welcoming message; I appreciate it.

Is this the HV Battery ECU? (Photo attached with arrow)

Also, in the second image you can see I have the P0A0D code which I've been told is an improperly installed service safety plug. PErhaps I damaged it by handling it too roughly or something. I'm not sure. I'll have to look in there and check.

I'm learning so much here. Thanks for the help.

 

I believe it's still the original. I just bought the vehicle 6 weeks ago.

I checked the connector as you mentioned and yes there was the corrosion. Stupidly I tried cleaning it with a wire brush and my car is a dead duck now tripping a p3030 code.

Also does this look like the correct connector piece? The eBay seller says it's for 2007 Prius which is my model but I just want to double check.

Thank you

 

Are you talking about the male piece that the connector plugs into? All of those pins are intact. I have a picture I'll pot but I'll need to post a better quality one later on. But do you think the corrosion could leak into the ECU? Given that the pins are all on the male piece of the ECU I should be able to replace the connector piece and the P3030 stop showing, no? Also the problem may be deeper than just the corrosion, right? It may be some bad battery packs causing such a wide sing in voltage. Just curious. Thanks again.

Sorry for the poor quality image. Again, I'll post a better quality one after work.

 

------Thank you!------

SFO you were correct about the pins being stuck in there, so I ordered not only the Wire frame 2 but also the battery ECU unit. It'll be here in a few days and I'll lyk how it goes.

Interestingly, when I did a voltage check for each battery pack a few days ago they all read about 8.20 give or take a .02 or .03. One of them read 8.14. In your estimation would the bad connector piece have been the likely culprit for those high numbers?

 

I noticed that when I took off wire frame #2 every battery pack, from one end of the pack to the other (+ and - on same pack) the voltage read correctly 7.6 or very close for every single one. However, when I checked the voltage on the #2 side (not the side with the safety switch/plug) and checked two packs combined all of them read 15.2 (or close to it) except for #19 and #20 (which of course is where the safety plug leads into). The first photo (which is on the #2 side) shows 4.26 volts when I connect the two packs. When I checked the voltage on the #1 side (safety plug side) the voltage read 3.76.

This baffles me. Also when I check led the #1 side after the wire frame 2 was disconnected, I was looking for voltage by connect the + and - from different packs and found most of them were at 0 or close to them. Some even read -0.1.

Can anyone explain?

I appreciate it.

 

Thank you for that. I just noticed while installing the new wire frame #2 that the voltage for the whole battery is 219. I understand it should be about 7.2 per pack but mine is hovering around 7.6. Could this just have been a result of the bad battery ECU unit from before and perhaps it'll "work itself out" to the proper levels once I install and start driving the Prius after I install the new battery ECU?

BTW you were correct. Once I plugged the safety plug in it read the way it was supposed to.

Thanks

 

Thank you everybody for your help. Once I replaced the wire frame #2 and the battery ECU everything (except the catalytic converter which is another thread for another day) works great. I appreciate the help.

Just a word to the wise for anyone doing this themselves, you will need to take the back seats (top parts) out to have ease or access to the battery. Trust me. Do this it'll save you a lot of stress on your body.