Oil Change-Prius 2008 115k

I cannot see any indication on that document that it is from Toyota. Now look at the Document in my post #20 above.

John (Britprius)

 

Use whatever you want to.
Since you just bought the car, you're not really sure if it's a smoker or a drinker yet...are you?

Despite what all of the oil experts say, it's really not going to matter what you put into it since you're not the one who is going to be crawling under the car to change (maybe) the filter and the oil. It's much more important to make sure that your car isn't a quart low from time to time since the Prius has a pretty small sump.

Check the oil after the dealer performs the service.
Wait a tank or two.
Check the volume again.
See if you're using oil, and check your manual - I'll betcha they recommend 5w30.
If somebody says that you're going to notice a large fuel efficiency gain by using 0w20, or any specific blend for a G2 with 115,000 miles on the clock, then don't ever follow that person's advice for anything.

If you change your own oil and you want to extend the oil change interval by using a designer blend, that's OK.
If you want to use recycled "Good E Nuff" brand oil (make sure that the carry the American Petroleum Institute (API) seal of certification) then that's probably going to be OK too. Make sure that you check your prices though, because some off brands are actually more expensive.

I'd probably use a Walmart blend for 3 reasons:
1. It's cheap.
2. There are 4,00 WalMart stores in the US, and....
3. The media HATES Walmart. If their oil weren't up to scratch? You would know about it.


In the end, whatever you feel comfortable doing is going to be best provided that you actually change and check the oil with an appropriate oil.
There is no single appropriate oil blend.

Good Luck!
While you're into the preventative maintenance thing, there are threads in this forum detailing preventative maintenance for G2's with 100,000 miles on the clock. See if you can determine what's been done to your car (Toyota may be able to provide this information) and see what you need to do.

Do not...DO NOT use dealer service department recommendations as a sole source.
Find out what your maintenance schedule says, and then do a little reading in this forum.
I'd probably look into changing the differential fluid proactively.

Good Luck!

 

First, 0W-20 is a fine choice in my opinion, Toyota genuine parts chart, etc. This has never been disputed by me. I merely stated it was interesting that the pdf I posted from Toyota Motor Sales Inc (read the bottom left of the pdf) indicates DINO only 5W-30 for the 2nd Gen Prius. I've also attached the 2008 pdf page for the USA Prius Oil recommendation: its 5W-30. I've used heavier weights and lighter weights of oil in the Toyota. Frankly, Toyota motors are almost bulletproof. Change the oil with some close viscosity to recommendations but change it on a regular schedule. A primary reason for Toyota switching to 0w-20 is the 10k oil change interval extension that they can tout for lower owner costs and less frequent service intervals.

 

Looks like Toyota didn't discover there's synthetic oil available till 2010.

I like how in the Prius C which is the same 1NZ-FXE motor as in the G2 they now specify Synthetic oil.

Total *Ed, you know better, watch the language* graph.

 

Toyota ini

I think when the car was manufactured Toyota recommended 5W30. Then a few years later, with more testing/research (and maybe a bit of salesmanship) they published a guideline that allowed 0W20 as well. I'd say it's a toss-up. With the mileage, and not knowing it's history, I'd be inclined to stay with 5W30. And, the sun doesn't rise and set on Mobil, it's just an oil. Pennzoil is fine too. My pref is Toyota's oil, it's hands down the cheapest at my dealership (under $6 Can per liter), and has a good reputation.

Toyota recommends to change the oil filter at each oil change, so I'd stick with that. FWIW, Honda now recommends filter change at every other oil change. The dealerships largely ignore this though, it actually takes a battle to get them to follow the guidelines.

I compromised when doing oil change only on a previous Honda: remove, drain and reinstall the filter. This at least gets the bulk of the oil out, one of the downsides of not changing the filter.

 

Really got to look up stuff before jumping to conclusions. Different version of same engine.

"In 2012, at arrival of Prius C (North America), Prius Aqua (Japan), Yaris Hybrid (Europa), a new version occurs. Without any belt-driven accessories, a physical compression ratio of 13.4:1, the new version delivers an output of 54 kW (74 hp) at 4800 rpm with 111 Nm (82 lb·ft) of torque at 3600–4400 rpm."

And you do notice that only 1 vehicle that Toyota current makes, the yaris, is NOT on Synthetic only 0w-20. Simple to see that Toyota has made their synthetic 0w-20 as their universal motor oil. Cheaper costs, no confusion, same oil, nearly across the board. Is it the best? Maybe.

Once again, just because something contradicts what you personally hold to or believe is correct is not the relevant issue. Don't try and discredit the "graph". Accept it and move on. Seriously.

 

If you check on bearing and piston clearances, bore and stroke, you will find they are the same in both versions of the engine.
Yes the compression ratio has been changed "raised" this puts more stress on the engine not less, and they have done a little more polishing of the bearing journals. However the compression rating is only theoretical as the compression is governed in an Atkinson cycle engine by the valve timing, and never even approaches that level. Raising the compression level has probably been accomplished by closing the inlet valves earlier to slightly increase the intake volume "less is pushed back into the inlet manifold".
The engine block is not modified in any way for the electric coolant pump. The new pump could be retro fitted to the gen2 Prius. This would release some mechanical power to drive the car or save fuel instead of the pump. The coolant pump in most cars has to be capable of circulating the coolant at engine tick over. At high engine revs it can waste much engine power by over pumping. Going to electric pumping also eliminates the belt and pulleys along with there power losses.
The 1NZFXE engine in the Hybrid versions of Toyota's cars is the same basic 1.5 ltr engine as used in other Toyota cars in Otto cycle form and produces over 100 BHP, and revs to 6500 RPM. They to run on 0w-20 oil.

John (Britprius)

 

Ok I simply don't believe that document is correct. It conflicts with too much other information, including the owners manual which merely specifies the grade (5w30) and the minimum specification (ILSAC in the US, API SJ here in Australia) and makes absolutely no mention of synthetic vs non synthetic.

In fact the distinction between synthetic vs non synthetic is completely irrelevant. The oil either meets the required specifications or it doesn't, how that oil was refined or produced is entirely irrelevant. You might as well quote an official Toyota document that says that the oil must only come in a green bottle. If you do then I'll dismiss that as well.

If you look closely at that document you will see that the author totally conflates 0w20 with synthetic and 5w30 with non synthetic. The latter is completely incorrect, most 5w30's these days are either full or part synthetic, which in my opinion renders the "S/NS" part of that document as completely meaningless.

BTW. Here is the relevant part of the US manual (first attachment). The recommendation is 5w30 and ILSAC. No mention at all regarding synthetic vs non synthetic.

The Australian manual is much the same except they allow for a wider choice of viscosity, depending on the expected operating temperatures, and they specify API SJ instead of ILSAC (same engine protection specs but not so stringent fuel efficiency specs, allowing for more choice in grades). The second attachment shows the recommenced viscosity (grades) scanned from my 2005 manual.

 

Uart what lower range of temperatures do you get in the Australian winter? I know this will vary depending on the location within the country.

 

Hi John. I'm in the mid coast region of NSW, which is a fairly temperate climate. It rarely drops below about 5C (40F) here. You know the "snowflake" ice warning icon, it comes on at about 3C. Well we had the Prius for about 3 years before first seeing it! I didn't even know what it was and had to go home and look it up on priuschat.

Australia also has a tropical climate in the north and some alpine regions in the south, but probably the largest population centres are a temperate climate.

 

We do have somewhere on the Gen2 threads a letter from Toyota USA to a Gen2 owner saying 0W-20 is fine with drains at 5000 mile intervals. But I stick with 5W-30 (and 0W-30) which is the USA Gen2 spec.

 

A few points:

0W-20 is "conflated" with synthetic b/c is must be. that's the only way 0 weight oil exists. PEriod. End of story. DINO 0 weight?!?! Yeah.....

Synthetic and non synthetic is not irrelevant. The main benefit of Synthtics over semi or non-synthetics is "longevity and ability to handle extreme high temperatures without breaking down". Thus extended service intervals are onyl possible with synthtewtic vs DINO oil choices. Also "lower volatility and therefore not vaporize out the exhaust as quickly". Finally, "Synthetics have also been shown to produce less resistance in the engine and therefore offer more horsepower and overall efficiency for the engine. This added horsepower in return means that the engine will be able to perform at the same level as before, but using slightly less gas."

All motor oil ought to meet specifications saying that it meets the MINIMUM manufacturer specifications for the vehicle. I would never state Supertech DINO oil beats Pennzoil Ultra synthetic oil in even the same grade, meeting the same specifications. If you dare venture into BITOG, you can get detailed info of the additional specifications that certain synthetics get from other manufacturers such as Porsche, BMW, MB, etc that many conventional DINO oils don't achieve even from the same brand of oil.

Again, when I posted the document, I stated it as INTERESTING not that using anything other than DINO 5W30 was wrong, bad, etc. INTERESTING. I myself have used DINO 10w30, DINO 10W-40, Mobil 1 0W-40, Pennzoil Platinum 5W-40, Valvoline Nextgen Semi Synthetic 5W-30. So I've used all different weight, DINO, Semi and full synthtic alike. I've also used multiple different filters such as Fram Ultra, Toyota OEM, Mobil 1, Purlator PureOne, Royal Purple. I can definitely say from personal experience that the aftermarket high quality filters keep the oil from getting darker for a longer period of time and miles than the conventional OEM filter. I also use aftermarket oversized oil filters that fit on my huge LS430 4.3L V8 engine as well. So yeah, i've experimented with all types of oil and oil filters. This is just from my personal experience and I change my oil religiously every 3k miles. Yeah, overkill but I also recycle my oil as well. And when you can score deals for oil at 2 bucks a quart and you change it yourself, I do not experience much inconvenience from it.

 

What you experienced is changing to synthetic on a high mileage car might cause leaks or consumption to go up. I worked in a lube store and everyone who had synthetic installed in a car that had been run on regular oil for many miles started to have leak problems. The oil guys said the synthetic cleans up the coked up old oil and makes a new escape passage in the seal. If you can see what was used in the car before it helps make the decision easier. My rule, never change to synthetic after being run on dino for over 20,000.

 

switching to synthetic on an older car may have caused leaks, but with newer engines, its not a problem. I'm on my 3rd prius, all bought used, always use mobil1, cause it was free at the benz dealers where I used to work. never had a leak or used much oil. maint light comes on, time for new oil and filter.

 

Some of you need to grab a bucket of popcorn & read about motor oil preferences on MOTORCYCLE forums...

Those debates make this thread look like mild flirtation!

 

Soooo, new technology is no good! I use 0-20 in my 1970 sears tractor and it isn't leaking anywhere. I have used it in all my cars from 2006. None of them leak oil and some of my cars had many miles of 10 - 30 when I changed to 0 - 20 without any leaks. You worry to much. H

 

I have a Toyota Prius 2007 top of the line Japanese spec G, with 170k mileage and I have been using Shell 10W-40 and the car response is very well towards it, but there is an issue with either my car or this oil, after about 10k kms the car starts burning oil and very little to no oil is left, now I don't know the reason. Since I live in a hotter climate with temperature crossing 50 C I prefer the synthetic based oil 10w-40.
Should I shift towards a fully synthetic based oil or not ? Let me know

 

Not prius info but probably still useful. Couple of years ago subaru started using 0W in their new cars. Many owners had oil consumption issues, one person (I got this from a tech) burned thru all the oil before the change frequency and siezed the motor. They insisted on a new motor under warranty because a new car should not consume all the oil during a change cycle. Apparently owners are not expected to check oil level when a warning light comes on!
My takeaway from this, owner idiocy aside, is if you go to 0W and have oil consumption issues go to 5W. But if the manual says 5W use 5W, never go thinner than the spec.

 

I don't see the logic here.

The W (or cold) spec is only relevant for the cold startup so I'm not sure of the relevance to oil burning. I would expect the hot spec (i. e. the number after the dash) to be more relevant.

The OP is using heavier oil than most other people in other parts of the world where 5W-30 would be normal. He is using 10W-40 as ambient temps are in the 50ºC range in the hottest part of the year, which is reasonable.