Gen 1 Rear Wheel Bearing Hub 4 Mounting bolt torque spec?

My '01 Repair Manual says 38 ft-lb.

 

What size is the nut 22 mm 13/16 You can use the machinist handbook to get a basic idea of the torque needed for the size bolt and material you're working with it'll be real close actually It always is I don't have an '01 repair manual with the size of the nut and its application You will be putting the ballpark that's close enough to work with. 38 does sound a little low but when these cars were made in that particular year I could possibly believe anything.. It certainly not going to come undone at 38 ft lb that is still pretty tight.

 

These are the four bolts that hold on the rear hub if I'm not mistaken they're like what 14 mm 8 mm diameter 14 mm head? I think they'd be the same size on the generation 2 in the same position matter of fact on a Yaris and most front wheel drive trailing arm Toyotas should be very similar if the bolt size remains the same which I think it does throughout 15 or so years I have a rear hub sitting here out of a Gen 2 and a Gen 3 the four bolts that hold on the hub look to be about 8 mm so the 38-ft lb would sound about right pushing that to 60 or 75 that seems a little excessive to me anyway If you look at how these things are held on and they're not coming off there's nothing vibrating or causing anything to loosen back there The wheel's spinning around and around has nothing to do with it the four bolts that are holding the hub on or isolated from all of that.

 

The larger point here is that there is one good place to find the right answer, and a whole internet's worth of places to find wrong ones.

Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat

Falling back to looking up the bolt diameter (not the head diameter!) in a generic-bolt-torques reference is possible, but there are important cautions. Those generic torque references depend not just on the bolt diameter but on its material, heat treatment and strength, so you have to know that stuff too before you look there. Toyota marks the strength of their nuts and bolts with a pattern of pips on the head, and that's in the repair manual too, along with their generic torque charts that go with the different strengths. But in the repair manual anyway, might as well go look up the specific torque for the fastener in the position you care about.

In fact, it's not just a matter of "might as well"; Toyota intends the generic tables to be used only when they didn't give a specific torque for the fastener in a specific place. The specific torques they give will often be different from what's in the generic chart, because they take into account everything about that specific use.

 

Looks like we already have an answer---or do we?

 

We do.

 

The 38 even sounds correct . Getting up in the 60 plus pounds is a head bolt type tq. Spec he he. Which today those head bolts are the similar major diameter but coarser threading and better material I do believe . And the head bolt generally today or throwaways torque one time to stretch and then upon removal into the trash. Although I have seen them reuse successfully and have done it before and other engines not sure that I would try that in an engine that's plagued with head gasket compromises personally.

 

Tom's ability to take a thread off-topic with such ease and totally irrelevent anecdotes is astounding.

 

Open deck weak design . It's used for modular design similar to other modular designs in ICE engines . Easier to machine assemble n such . But it's all part of the issues you have with these type designs . Yet still all this is generally going on well after 100K.

 

"...and the wonderful thing is, there's no punctuation."
"Oh that's marvelous."

 

That's just the speech-to-text. What he was saying to the phone was totally about wheel bearings.

 

And deaf to all feedback.