Need help diagnosing P0AFC

Well... I put it together this week, and I'm getting P308A. Car won't go into ready mode. It's reading like every other cell as 0V. Did I hook something up wrong? Is the replacement voltage sensor actually incompatible? Or did I actually kill the battery by leaving the car unstarted for a couple weeks?

I'll rescan and post codes/data in a bit when I get back home to the car

 

Here are the DTCs and data:

 

Only reason I considered it possibly incompatible is because it has a slightly different part number (#89892-47080/175100-7280, board #175131-7280) than my existing one was. There are pictures in this thread, post #31 and #36.

I'm wondering if it might be something like 2012-2015 use a different sensor than 2010-2011? I hadn't thought something like this could be an issue, since they're still the same generation.

As for how it was obtained, I bought it from a used hybrid parts seller on eBay.

I'm not sure what my next steps are. I'm thinking to remove the #2 frame wire and check continuity between each voltage sense wire and the corresponding pin on the connector. Sounds like it'll be time-consuming... But if that checks out then next I guess I'll swap back my old voltage sensor and see if there's any change.

 

Can you think of any possibility of me connecting something incorrectly while putting the bus bars/sensor/junction block back together, which might result in this?

 

Uhh. Looking at it again in the daylight, it looks like I neglected to notice missing "bus bars" on the replacement frame wire... That'll probably be why I'm getting the uniformly weird voltage readings.

Looks like I stripped a couple nuts on while installing, so I gotta go grab my friend's extractor socket again, before I can reinstall with bus bars.

I hope I didn't damage any of the blades by torquing directly onto the blades rather than onto a bus bar...

Also the 12V finally gave out, so I'll have to fix that too.

 

Will submerging the bus bars in vinegar harm them at all? Wouldn't think so, but just making sure, before I do that to try to clean my old ones

 

Weird question maybe, but would I be able to jump the car with the 12V disconnected, so I can pop the trunk without crawling over the open hybrid battery area? Or would it be an open circuit and not do anything?

 

For anyone else that was wondering, I just wanted to confirm that I was able to pop the trunk with a portable jump pack connected under the hood, even while the 12V battery was removed. I did have to put the jump pack into boost mode.

Anyways, I cleaned my old bus bars and put them on, hooked up all the connectors, and the car starts up now. Cleared my codes, and no DTCs remaining! Even the brake booster codes are gone.

Now I just have to put all the covers and stuff back on. Debating leaving it open, as I might try to tackle cleaning the fan/vent this weekend. I don't think it's dirty, but might as well, if I do have the time. But I need to put it together enough to be able to drive it safely and without losing any nuts/bolts/pieces I have lying around from disassembly.

 

Yup, I changed out the smart unit and was good to go. I also cleaned the bus bars and brushed off the studs on each cell, but that's more of preventative maintenance, I don't think related to the P0AFC code