Starts & stalls - + codes - HV drained?

What's the miles?

What does the state-of-charge for the battery show, on the dashboard?

Download Dr Prius app and see what it thinks of the hybrid battery. Just do the easy test for starters, which can be done with the car "On" (two pushes of start button without foot on brake pedal). Looks like this:

 

Generally, we can be more helpful when you give us the actual codes in your post, instead of paraphrasing them.

There is one obvious problem in your video, though. You are showing the throttle body naked, without the air supply doctwork attached to it.

The mass airflow sensor is in that ductwork. In your video, I don't know where that ductwork is exactly, but I'm sure the air flowing into the throttle body is not coming through it, so no matter how clean the MAF sensor may be, the airflow measurement is completely wrong.

 

Keep in mind, the HV battery is what spins the engine for starting, so if the engine is/was spinnng, the HV battery was good enough to do that. It may be the battery is drained due to trying to unsuccessfully start too many times.

It will be important to correct the root cause of the "no start" condition prior to the HV battery being completely drained. At this point, you're running out of tries.

You need three things: air, fuel and spark. I would verify as much as I could prior to trying to start it again.

 

As @ChapmanF noted, the MAF code could be due to the partial disassembly? Too, codes will “linger”, even when fault is rectified.

what’s the miles?

 

If the HV battery is truly "fully drained," you won't be able to start the engine until that's rectified. However, the sound of the engine being spun during starting attempts sometimes fools people into believing the engine is running under its own power during that brief period.

 

Seriously, in the video linked in post #1, the throttle body is drawing straight from the free air above it. It makes no difference if the MAF sensor is plugged in, or plugged into the top cover of the air box, if the air going into the engine is not going through it.

In diagnosing an engine problem, any time there's a small vacuum leak anywhere downstream of the MAF sensor, that's called an "unmetered air" problem: the MAF reading isn't accurate for all the air going into the engine, because some air is entering downstream.

What your video shows is an "unmetered air" problem taken to its logical extreme: all of the air entering the engine is unmetered!

Your code screenshot in that post shows nothing but permanent codes. Permanent codes are around because the corresponding issues were detected at some time in the past. They will stay around until you get the engine started and make enough normal drives for the ECM to convince itself all those things are now fixed.

The car is still trying to crank the engine, so it hasn't given up on that for low battery charge yet. You should be able to check the battery state of charge.

The throttle opening isn't large for starting, so I'm not thinking there's a throttle body problem. But that cranking sounds very clattery. Have you checked all the basic things (compression, fuel delivery, spark)?

It's worth mentioning that an engine will sound awfully clattery if run on a severely lean mixture—not enough fuel being injected—and that may be the mixture you get if the ECM is trying to match the fuel volume to the mass of air flowing through the MAF sensor, and the air isn't going through there.

 

Yup, it's easy to get an unmetered-air situation, with enough little hoses to remember to connect.

 

I was browsing through the beginning of the 2nd gen Repair Manual; this is of interest:



Besides ID'ing where they go, they're a big flag, saying "hey, don't forget me".

I neglected to reconnect the PCV hose connection to intake manifold a few weeks back, btw...

 

Take photos...

 

All 7 of them ... that's what the display means by 'permanent' codes.

It's not really all about driving a certain distance. There's a specific confirmation driving pattern for each code, needed for the monitor self-test to run and confirm that code's been resolved. Some of the patterns are simple and quick and some are long and involved. If you're patient you can just keep driving and eventually you should hit all the driving conditions needed and they'll all have gone away, but it's not anything like drive one certain distance and they all get cleared. If you're impatient, you can look up the confirmation driving patterns for each code in the repair manual, and drive those patterns on purpose.

None of this, of course, explains why your car didn't start. That'll have to be another part of the story.