Battery issues and "code" is eight digits

The dealer probably used a Midtronics tester such as the DSS-5000 or DCA-8000, which Toyota requires dealers to have. The “Good Recharge” result means the battery just needs to be recharged and can be returned to service; according to the tester’s decision algorithm, the battery doesn’t need to be replaced.

If you want to replace the battery, anyway, and need to know what kind to install, see my previous posting. Batteries of this size are now widely available, and there’s no special reason to buy one from a Toyota dealer.

I’m not sure which code you mean.

If it’s the eight-digit number stamped in the box on the label, between the warnings in Japanese and the distributors’ addresses, that’s just a lot number, and it’s not especially informative—a GS YUASA auxiliary (12-volt) battery on a fourth-generation Prius car in the U.S. is probably the original, since the batteries available at Toyota dealers in the U.S. are of a different brand, and on a model year 2016 car, it was almost certainly made some time in 2015 or 2016.

If it’s a longer code in the results from the tester, that’s probably a warranty code, meant for Toyota to use to confirm the test result, if the dealer were to submit it when making a warranty claim for a failed battery. A major reason Toyota and other automakers require dealers to use the Midtronics testers, and to prove they’ve done so, is to avoid having to pay to replace batteries that just need recharging. The warranty code isn’t a diagnostic trouble code, such as you’d look up in the Repair Manual (more info), and since your battery passed the test and is long out of warranty coverage, the warranty code isn’t useful to you or anyone else.

 

That looks like the original battery. Might still pass tests, but I wouldn't trust it this winter.

 

If this is your first Gen 4 Prius, and coming from earlier Gens according to your Signature, you've discovered the 12V battery is completely different in this new Gen. First, it's under the hood, second, it's not AGM, and third, you can remove the caps on top and check/refill the electrolyte level. I'm still running the original battery in my 2016, and topped off the water level once about a year ago the first time it went flat. Associated with this incident, I tried to recharge it with a battery charger/maintainer. In order to get a good recharge, I had to remove the car's negative terminal and attach the recharger directly to the negative terminal overnight. That may have been your problem, too. Since then, I purchased a NOCO Jump Pack and have successfully used it to jump start the car a couple of times with no hassle. It can connect to the battery harness fittings and provide a quick jump start.

 

You have a 6 year old car.......in which the rough average life of the 12 V battery is 5-6 years......and YOU killed it by leaving various lights on too long.

Expecting the dealer to give you a new battery for free is unreasonable.
At a discount, maybe, but not free.

 

It will likely be impossible.
And if you fret over having to buy a new battery, THEY won't care and it will just make YOU sick.
There is NO warranty on a 6 year old used car usually.
And certainly NOT on things like tires and batteries.

I suggest that you give it one swing and then give it up.

 

they go strictly by the machine reading. if it says it's good, they won't warranty it. they don't routinely replace anything before selling, only if it doesn't work.
after you've recharged and used it for a month or so, drop by an auto zone for a free load test to make sure it's okay

 

I am in the same boat (2016 Original Battery with topped off electrolyte levels), but I have not taken any battery harness off to charge/maintain. I've just attached and let it go overnight and came out to a fully charged battery.

 

Great to hear you are light free. I ended up replacing my 12v thanks to this discussion. Had it load tested and the amperage was 184. Not bad for a 7 year old battery. Rather pay less early than more later.