ABS sensor damaged by loose deflector

Hi all!

So I took on my front passenger side wheel bearing hub replacement and found out the previous shop didn't replace the inner deflector (43246-47010) which was very difficult to find a replacement for.

Well, once I finally get everything apart (always seized in there) and back together, I take it for a test drive and find the ABS VSC lights on. Get back in, take off wheel, find out the abs sensor nut was shorn off. Pop it out and see that the deflector must have been spinning with the cv axle and ground down the tip of the abs sensor... now how do I get the deflector to stay in place? It feels like it doesn't want to stick. Do I need to replace the knuckle to get a tighter fit after last shop's likely abuse in bearing removal?

Thanks in advance!

 

The deflector had misformed on the friction fit and needed to be bent back into shape and refitted. I got that back in after drilling and tapping a new hole for ABS sensor bolt. I left the old ABS sensor with damaged tip to confirm the deflector won't spin and shear off the tip of the new ABS sensor.

So far, so good. Car needs the usual alignment after slide hammering out the old bearing for hours. I have a little bit of rhythmic wheel noise that could be from alignment? And I can feel the braking switch to regenerative when I get below 10mph but maybe that's from the damaged ABS sensor causing a misread of the wheel speed.

Any thoughts, let me know.

 

Update, I've got alignment done which has helped some and then installed the new ABS sensor. The wheel drumming has essentially ceased but now the ABS/VSC and (!) lights are back on. I'm guessing the aftermarket (Ultra-Power 5S6813) ABS sensor isn't communicating in the same way as the original on the other side.

tl;dr: Does anyone have a suggestion for an ABS sensor that doesn't light up the dash codes?

 

Thanks! I'll take a look tomorrow and get back to you. I do have an OBDII or something bluetooth scanner i could check it with too.

 

Just scanned for codes and it came up empty. The (!), ABS and VSC lights are still on though. I use InCarDoc Pro as my phone app for the bluetooth OBDII reader.

 

Alright, my code reader won't work, so I did the jumper method. Here's what I got for blink codes but I couldn't find access to a repair manual.

(!) 36, 41
ABS 31, 35, 42
VSC 43, 45
(~!~) (the tire monitor) 24

 

Thanks for the codes description. I found the repair manual post on the blink code link but it looks like the free access for repair manual is just in some libraries. The other free info links didn't include repair manual information. I did find another resource that had a few general dtc descriptions which correspond to yours well. It looks like the codes I'm concerned with are all pointing to the front right ABS sensor (kinda knew that already since it doesn't display lights when I reinstall the original sensor that's damaged).

Do I run the calibration procedure for it or do I upgrade the replacement sensor to spec'd OEM. I could also shave down the original ABS sensor plastic housing to match the amount of metal shaved from the tip of the sensor to improve it's function.

Thanks again!

 

Yeah, the boat I'm in is, I bought a replacement but it apparently isn't communicating well with the existing system. I'm now not sure which brands work, if someone knows what brands I can trust, that'd be great.

Ultra-power is the failed choice. I've found Holstein, Vemo, and Beck/Arnley.

 

Toyota installed ABS sensor, but still have the same dash lights. They think the new wheel bearing is bad and needs to be replaced (after under 1000miles). Could the culprit actually be wear in the slot the hub fits into the spindle? I know the hub is bolted on in 4 places but how tight does the fit into the spindle need to be? The previous shop dinged up the spindle pretty good changing the hub 2 years ago.

My other thought is a few ribs are chipped on the cv axle that the abs sensor is reading could cause poor signal.