Lifting the Prius

The car is. Prius 2012 PIP, so posted here and ok for admin to relocate to more appropriate forum.

Going to be changing out break pads, possibly rotors - over all getting more hand on with work requiring lifting the car.

Prius is pretty low and spent time looking for a low profile bottle-jack to fit, rather than the hassle ls/storage of a bully floor jack on wheels.

In the interest of doing this ‘more proper’ like, I got rubber grips for the jack stands (to keep from damaging frame etc.) Ordered one for the jack itself as well …a round hockey puck like disk.

For this post a took a photo of the bottle-jack in position, and man alive it just fits without room to spare..probably couldn’t get a piece of corrugated cardboard between the jack head and the frame mount.

Here is the photo. Let me know the thoughts….any risk to damaging frame with a lift? Jack stands would have the deliver grips.

update - position of jack in photo is where the stand would test, however same clearance from the proper jack position towards the center of the car.

 

The second pad arrived. It adds apx 3/4” to required lift height to fit. I can gain 1”-2” with pads under the tires.

Question of if this is of value when lifting? Related, maybe it is a risk if vehicle shifts as a result of the pad while lifting?

 

Thank you for all the info.

For the few times I’d ever need to lift the car (had the car since 2012, never lifted yet - always had a shop doing the oil (though that might change soon)) I would only see the need to lift front or back but never both at the same time.

For the few times a jack of any kind would be needed, the floor jack seems hard to store.

Jack stands purchased are 3 ton.
Bottle jack is a 12 ton.

Is the safety concern the quality of the jack, maybe more the fact that you are closer to the vehicle during the lifting proceeds, maybe the foot print being smaller or bottle jacks operate differently making them less safe? What floor jack would be recommended (blow mold case would help?)

Thank you for sharing the jack points. I did make the presumption the scissor jack location would be for the jacks.

Lucky to have a level cement floor from which to work.

 

error - delete

 

True true… always had rotations and oil changes done at the same time by the same chain. That chain pricing skyrocketed now (not all due to covid more Ukraine) where I am seriously considering doing my own changes…something I haven’t done in maybe 20 years. Never did transaxle fluid.

I before getting the bottle jack I did look at trolley floor jacks, yet reviews all seemed fake or commercialized, or they were poor reviews showing broken handles, damaged goods, quick to rustic.. and they all were so bulky.

So lifting from the back center space, will I need a steel plate of some kind to keep from bending the frame or placing a divot in the frame from the saddle? I can think of a way to get that rubber hockey puck between the saddle and jack point, it just seems that one the car starts to lift the pressure might cause the puck to shift, no? No risk of the car falling off the saddle on its way up (regardless of bottle or trolley?)

 

Looking at this diagram for the rear, it looks like the saddle needs to have direct contact w/the lifting point on the car.
We would have rubber guards for the jack stand locations. Any protector needed here with the initial lift? Some of the rubber blocks aisles seem rather high, I'd hate the idea of the weight shifting due rubber at the saddle. One suggested a metal plate, same concern w/shifting weight.



Targeting next week for the job.

Recommendations on pads or (painted) rotors for a 2012 PIP (specific and/or brands?)
How do you know if either need to be replaced w/a visual inspection?

 

Stability - didn't mean at the base where the wheels or jack touch the ground.... meant as it goes up in the air, the weight of the vehicle on the jack shifting one direction or another due to a rubber block between the jack saddle and the frame point?

 

@Mendel Leisk Mendel, you are such an active and detailed contributor to this forum - so appreciated.

 

Rotors - dealership seems to always recommend (require) machining rotors for a brake job. If doing brakes on one's own, how do you know if rotors need to be machined, or if to purchase new - or probably skip getting them resurfaced and install new.

 

Correct - the topic shifted over and the thread stayed here... maybe a few cross links to help everyone. I purchased new rotors as backup - only have the one vehicle so if I need to get a part I'm sort of dead-in-the-water once the job starts. Rounding into 71,000 miles, first time the vehicle is seeing a brake replacement.

 

Started the job this evening... topic still on lifting.

• Lifting the rear using the lifting point a few feet from the rear passenger tire lifted the entire back, doing a great job for the rear passenger tire however remains too low for the driver back seat tire. I didn't think to measure the clearance of the jacks (presumed they were standard sizes) and it took a high left to get the jack on the right passenger side. I can barely get the jack on the left rear side...I can squeeze the jack stand to the scissors jack point, but not w/the rubber rail guard on the saddle.
  
  
• Decided to lower the jack to remove, then place plywood under the jack and re-lift to get the clearance for the rubber guard. Turns out the jack will not full retract. The jack was tested and I think it was fully primed, no air.... I did a test w/o weight for full functions and purged air... however now jack is stuck extended under the car. The car is fully resting on the right jack stand mind you. There is some room to fudge, where the hockey puck can be moved around...temped to knock it out just to get the car to lower. Note - I tried purging air while in place and no sign of excess air atm.