My car said check hybrid system and I did a scan and got a lot of DTCs in many of the modules Here are the ones related to the hybrid control module U0140 U0129U U1107 Almost All of them on all modules were communication errors and they all happened at once I cleared all the codes and the Check Hybrid System message went away My question is Did I cause this by plugging my scan tool in and out frequently? (The problem seemed to pop up when I plugged in my scan tool (Innova 5510) Thanks
That can happen, if the thing being plugged in causes noise on the network wiring. I once recounted a similar adventure here.
The obd port was NOT designed to have something hooked up to it all the time. Others have complained about trouble when they do that.
That might explain the problem I had . I am hoping to be able to measure various things in my car while I use it like engine temp transmission temp traction battery status. I wonder if one of those bluetooth devices like Dr Prius would do all that without causing problems Thanks
Dr Prius uses an ODB2 Bluetooth dongle. Depending on which model dongle you get, you may mot see this problem. JeffD
I have had a ScanGauge II plugged in all the time (except when I'm working on a problem and using something else) for six years with no issue. Before that, it was plugged in in my Gen 1 for six years with no issue. The only time I personally have seen an issue was when using a connector with electrically-noisy, unplated pins, as described in the post I linked to above. Depending on the device plugged in, if it doesn't behave nicely on the communication bus, that could also be an issue. Some people have a concern about the mass of the dongle sitting there in the diag port all the time, possibly flexing and weakening the spring pressure of the terminals. Maybe I don't run into that because the ScanGauge II is hardwired; the only thing attached at the diag port is the (relatively light) connector on the end of a cable. Maybe if it were some larger, more massive bluetooth dongle or something, it would stress the connector more as it bounces around. Pin 16 is supplied with battery voltage all the time. If you plug in a device that doesn't have a good, very efficient sleep mode, you may have drained-battery issues. The ScanGauge II has a well-implemented sleep mode.
None. Again, the port is NOT designed for that. It's a loose fit. There are people that do it. 99% have said they have problems. You'll always have those few that say they never had a problem with anything. It's not a good idea to do something based on what the less than one percent do. It would be "best" to find something you could actually connect with a solid connection that wouldn't cause damage. But, it's your car.
I was using a scangauge II, constantly plugged into OBD port, till I started getting "CHECK HYBRID SYSTEM" displayed, plus multiple brake warning lights, and the brakes felt like, well at first like they weren't working. Then you realize they're still functional, but definitely feel clunky, require more effort. Anyway, was back-and-forth to dealership several times, and on the last time disclosed about the scanguage, and they suggested to not use and see what happens. I followed their advice and no further issues.
Normally engine speed, engine coolant temperature, and traction battery current (which shows erratic readings, but I assume is about right on average). In the 4th space, normally traction battery temperature in warm weather, or 12-v system voltage in winter. Occasionally I peek at other variables, such as MAP. I wish switching between items were not so cumbersome.
MAP is "manifold absolute pressure": a pressure reading inside the intake manifold, and absolute rather than relative to atmospheric. So a MAP reading of 0 would be absolute vacuum, and when the engine is stopped it will be around 14.7 psi, same as atmospheric pressure. At idle it's pulled down to around 4 psi. The engine coolant will be between 80℃ and 95℃ a lot of the time. The engine thermostat begins to open around 83 to 85, and the cooling fans will start if it reaches 95℃. If you are parked and just using the heater, the car will relax and maintain the temperature more in the 50 to 60℃ range, still plenty to give good cabin heat but reducing other heat losses. You can find more on that in the "on hunkering" thread.
And usually roughly 12 psi when the engine is working. That's more consistent than in less efficient cars, because EGR and transmission programming tend to keep it there to minimize throttling losses.
