What's the most difficult catalytic converter protector to cut?

Yes it looks like a piece of junk... You get what you pay for!
Either do my way which is cheap ($50 (install yourself) - $150 (with labor)) but solid shock/tilt sensor to factory alarm way better than this motion sensor running on batteries which could go bad any moment... Or get a proper viper aftermarket alarm which will be at least $250 for the basic version up to $500 for a more advanced one.

 

Those are thin stainless steel, the thickness matters too! Look at the $300 option picture it’s THICK, I don’t think it will be one minute to cut it even with sawzall plus it’s a cage they will have to cut in multiple places it’s going to generate lots of noise along with my tilt factory alarm sensor I don’t think they will bother with it... Regardless it’s not going to cost me anything as I’m getting a new credit card sign up bonus which I paid mostly the new cat with, so I’m going to give it a shot and will report back if it gets stolen again...

 

That’s under the assumption that all thieves use sawzall. What if many don’t know about it or don’t have access to it because it’s too expensive to buy one?

 

UPDATE: I tried to do the $300 option, I showed them the picture from the review, and told them I want the same thing. They told me that it's not a truck, so it will be for the whole body, but they said it will be better. Originally they told me 2 hours, but it took them only 40 minutes to complete using only 2 metal pieces so it didn't look like a cage at all (I doubt it provides any better protection than the plate):







He welded it to the catalytic converter which I don't think it's a good idea if there is a leak or anything. So I was very disappointed with their work. He ended up reimbursing me, and putting a new Toyota oem piece.

So now I'm either left with the $450 option or findings some other options...

 

Similar work like they did is not recommended on the MillerCat website (similar pictures to what they did): https://catshield.com/blogs/news/tips-to-avoid-damaging-your-converter-while-trying-to-protect-it

 

@Mendel Leisk @alftoy

So there is a new protection option -

I just spoke with Morse Muffler shop: For $300, they install their custom solution: a High Tensile Chain Kryptonite hardened steel

-They say they bring it from the east coast and their customers are happy with it
-It’s welded to the frame and it’s welded to the catalytic cones (where welding is allowed and will not cause any rattling).
-They claim that you can’t cut it with Sawzall - That to cut it, you need some serious equipment that requires oxygen or some other material plus high voltage outlet.

Does that seem like a better option? Anyone did something like this? How does it compare to CatClamp or other chain protection solutions?

Thanks!

 

I guess there is no perfect solution:

-cat shield plate - they can remove the screws or get the same screwdriver to get it off, and cat shields as a con also rattle and can cause overheating because it covers the entire catalytic converter (not to mention they can be cut too).

-custom rebar cage/steel/stainless steel/chain welding still can be cut despite what some shop owners claim that it takes 3 hours or almost impossible to cut with sawzall.

Not sure if there are any other good alternatives... I’m starting to give up and maybe just keep the tilt/shock alarm along with the cheap plate shield, have comprehensive insurance and call it a day, other than maybe getting the car inside an indoor garage which could cost too.

 

I’m confused, on one hand you say that all the custom rebar steel can be cut relatively easily with the right tools, what makes you say that catmiller stainless steel with rod bolt cat shield is an ok option? isn’t it a thin metal plate that they could cut even easier not to mention they can buy the same part and use the screwdriver that comes with it or get the screws out without even the need to cut it?

 

Ok so I found this video by MillerCat “Miller CAT Cat Shield vs Milwaukee Sawzall and Diablo Carbide Tip Blades”:

Video description says: “We put our shield materials to the test and put them up against the top of the line sawzall and blades on the market. There are videos out there that show how other catalytic converter cages, shields, guards, are ineffective against the right tools. So we decided to use the tools thieves use to demonstrate how we stack up against the rest. The Milwaukee Super Sawzall and Diablo Carbide Tip Blades were no match for the 304 stainless steel. The bottom line, our .059" stainless is the strongest deterrence out there and burned out the blades after only a few inches. While this material is thinner than our .125" 304 stainless, it performed better because the vibration of the material actually heats up and burns out blades faster than thicker material. As you can see, aluminum, even at .190" is less effective but can gum up a blade. Aluminum is a great visual deterrence, but the stainless steel is a far greater material. Just to make a point, we cut through .375" mild steel. While it took awhile to cut through it, the blade remained intact. This is to prove that its not the thickness that matters, but the quality of the material. Thanks for watching and see what kinds of shield we offer for your vehicle at www dot catshield dot com.”

And for my screws/screwdriver concern, I found this:

https://catshield.com/blogs/news/which-level-of-screws-are-right-for-me

Where they say “We at MILLERCAT do not mess around when it comes to security and that certainly applies to our screws and security keys. We only have TWO LEVELS of protection, BETTER and BEST. Every Cat Shield comes standard with our BETTER LEVEL protection.

BETTER LEVEL. Perfect for most people, our Better Level is more secure than most people's best level of protection. That is because our Better Level comes with patented tamper-proof screws. What this means is that no one can buy these screws or keys online or at your local hardware store. Rest assured a thief cannot just bring their torx bit keys and try to take off the shield. We source our screws from a highly reputable security company and have an exclusive contract with them.

BEST LEVEL. For those who want to go the extra mile, we developed a proprietary custom screw and key for those who want the ultimate level of protection. This asymmetric design is etched with our MILLERCAT name on each screw.”

So I should get the 304 stainless steel and best level of screws (that’s extra $30 for miller cat custom screws as opposed to the standard tamper proof screws which could be useless if they get the same screwdriver from a new millercat shield)?

Here is a prius gen2 v2 package they sell on amazon (B0BJ633SFC) for $330 that includes a deadbolt (also stainless steel) - which is an added layer of security - the tricker thieves are circumventing ways to get around the flat shield design. can’t have that. the deadbolt prevents that:

 

But you didn't address the elephant in the room: The MillerCat shield cat can be cut as well, so why are you saying it's a better option than a cage/rebar? Do you work for MillerCat?

Edit: I re-read again what you wrote about the cat shield and why it's better, and I'm starting to understand now, especially with seeing the video below that they provided...

Unless you say this video by them is proving it can't be cut and is superior to all other options:

Because I'm seriously considering this option, it's $330 the 304 (which is essentially 1/8" thick that you explained about above) stainless steel catmiller cat shield version 2 that covers the entire catalytic and has the deadbolt - and probably I'll add the miller custom screws so they can't remove the screws easily if they got the same catshield parts kit - as well as labor is $95 so that's a total of $330 + $30 + $95 = $455 so I want to make sure it's well spent money.

I also think to add $10 hangers to prevent rattling (the one you said shouldn't happen supposedly):

They offer:

"Select our recommended Hangers and SAVE $5.00 - What's this product?

RECOMMENDED (+15) Hangers"

Should I get it?

It says it's for:

"Toyota Prius Exhaust Hangers
8 reviews
Regular price$20.00 USD
SKU: TOY-EX-HANGERS

Prius Gen 1 and 2 owners (2001-2009) are highly recommended to change their rubber exhaust hangers when adding a Cat Shield. After over a decade of wear and tear, your hangers should be replaced to eliminate any rattling of the exhaust with the shield."

Because I don't want the cat shield to rattle... Is it a must?

 

But to do this method, I need to cement the bricks to the ground? Otherwise, they can lift it with a jack, remove the bricks and it doesn't really prevent anything? I tried to google it, but couldn't find any actual examples or videos that someone did something like this...
Another thing I was thinking is maybe to get a guard rail post like this:

https://www.thecarycompany.com/single-safety-guard-rail-post-yellow-18-inch



From both sides of the car, since they can only jack the car from the sides I believe? With enough room to open the car doors, but not enough to be able to jack the car... (Most 2-3 ton trolley jacks have a lift height of 15" at the front of the Prius, the Prius clearance is 5", so 20" for a body to slid under, less so towards the midsection of the car)
But then again, that's something that needs to be permanently attached to the ground, so it's not a quick and easy solution...
I was hoping there is maybe like a big cage or something you enter your car inside that protects it (and yes, I'm aware that it's not a car garage I'm talking about)

Does anyone know something like that could make it hard or almost impossible to jack the car?

 

It looks like the hangers could be bought for less for $10 in autozone and also they say if you recently changed your catalytic converter, then it's unlikely that you need new hangers as the mechanic most likely put new hangers, but I will confirm that with my my mechanic who will install it...