Need a crash course on PIP

I guess in my gen2 case I did although the wheel bearing was failing. The mechanical water pump was preventative and I probably should have waited on that because my only failure of that part was a noisy pump that was still working. I assumed some of the parts were original.

For the Gen3, I know an EGR system cleaning and possibly a piston ring treatment is probably good to do.

Looking for any suggestions. Especially parts that would fail and I would be stranded, so I would take my chances on high priced brake actuators that can be replaced after failure.

 

I just got back from looking at the 2012 plug in Prius. It was overall in nice shape. Seller said he replaced struts and some interns transmission part that looked like a clutch without the friction surface so basically a spring dampener plate of some sort

I took a video of the car starting that I hope I can post. Fluid levels looked normal

only issue was a TPMS light on and I was warned there was ABS issue but I didn’t see a light. When I took the car out for a quick low speed spin I heard a pump cycling that I believe is a fault brake pressure booster

wondering at this point if the car can be safely driven like this for more testing and I will have to look at the $$ to repair and if DIY is feasible

car has 225k and is listed for $5000

 

Mendel... I know you are not a fan of this offering. I did have a video of a cold start of the motor. I would think it would indicate a hydrolock condition as it appears the car was nice and cold when I arrived, possibly not moving for days

Fluids also appeared to all be full.

 

Yes that is the vehicle for sale filmed this morning on a very cold start. it momentarily shuddered, but that might be normal? i never really watched my Gen2.

The brake issue needs some investigation. It was a low pitched pump noise that cycled on every 15 -30 seconds. Looks like those well known failure parts aren't even cheap second hand. I see parts on ebay for $300-500, but I need a deeper dive into it to determine what could be wrong. The owner pointed to the electronic module that is near the driver side shock tower. He said the mechanic thought that was the part that had gone bad, but to me, I feel from all the postings that it's something hydraulic/mechanical.

The owner didn't speak much English. His daughter was the translator for us, but that did make things a little harder to understand and information in this situation was not flowing freely. He made it a point to show me a picture of the transmission part that was replaced. Probably a very pricey repair.

It was about t 35 minute drive on mostly local streets. I need to investigate the braking issue even to be confident I can get it home for repairs should I decide to move forward on it.

He also did have the charging cable. An earlier post I asked about it because the daughter said it did not come with the car. A misunderstanding between them. He is at an apartment complex so the PIP option is probably inconvenient or impossible to use there, but probably can be tested, if its a standard plug.

 

Information about that part being replaced was offered without being asked. I guess I can ask if there was any leak or gasket repair.

Just called a local auto salvage yard and they said the brake accumulator pump runs about $550 used. I didn't have specific part numbers for him to search

 

The plate was replaced in September.

I specifically asked if any EGR cleaning or head gasket repair, either as a replacement part or sealer, was done. Response to that was no. Again... this is a message translated to the owner, so I assume the entire question was asked and answered.

Also just learned that the catalytic converter was stolen and replaced. Not too worried about that, but more info.

 

Well... this was also a PIP that was not plugged in for the last several years... maybe never.

I don't believe NJ has strict emissions like CA and NY and maybe a few other states. They certainly didn't require a CAT to be OEM.

What gives me pause mostly is whether that plate can go bad and cause a vibration from 220K miles of "normal" use without the high probablilty of a head gasket failure

 

KBB for this car is around 5K for trade in. I put it in fair condition. Private party was another $1000-$1500 I think, so that might justify brake work. I would be interested in getting this at a fair price, not taking advantage.. issue is always the unknown and whether somebody is being honest ( and knows enough to be able to share valuable information).

If I did 5K and had serious engine concerns, this would be a money pit because I don't see picking up an affordable used motor if a head gasket repair won't fix it.

 

I guess that goes for both the head gasket and brake booster with a used part

 

I do remeber you pointed out the inverter in an earlier post. Is there a lifespan for those? I thought the gen2 version was good as long as it was kept cooled. Is it the entire inverter or just the pump?