Short Ram Intake

Same here. Puzzling why they would omit a little plastic piece like that.

 

You forgot the MAF sensor you have to replace because the oil from the K&N filter. Also MORE dirt in the engine ( i guess some people like that), Bigger holes in the K&N filter means more dirt is allowed in.
Mighty Car Mods (if anyone remembers them) already myth busted this. Cold air intake/Short Ram Intakes does nothing.

 

Same here for the "Stock" look. I probably be open for a "resonator delete", basically you take away the extra chamber in the air duct that meant to muffle the sound, but keeps the stock filter and stock air ducts.

 

Basically, my setup is a "resonator delete" with the addition of a high flow rate K&N filter. The intake is in the same place except for the KN& filter replacement, nothing more.

I especially like the space cleared under the hood. As Azusa stated, the water pump and thermostat are easily accessible for replacement. I also like the space freed from the removal of the OEM filter box for my short hose length installation of the oil cat can. The can can be removed just by unscrewing the cup from the bottom.

When I needed to drain the radiator to replace the coolant, I just reached for the petcock by extending my left arm down the space behind the radiator without removing any other parts.

Again, the air filter's condition is fully visible by just opening the hood.

I might, however, look for a repalcabile OEM type paper filter that will fit like the cone type K&N over the intake, if one is available.

 

You got me there!
Only it's more like 30-45 minutes per stop at a DCFC,,,,
But, this is only when on a Road Trip! How often is that?
I have my noisy '10 Prius for road trips now!
Mostly I wake up to a full and inexpensive 'tank' of energy every morning.
I like that I can preheat or precool it for the wify, and it doesn't make a cloud of stank!

I have an open mind on this!
You tell me! Would there be a difference?

I too work in aerospace and modifications/improvements are made only if they work/save money/are safe.
Surely you have data from testing each of these 'Products' one at a time.

Since you promote these vendors (in your signature) and get a little somthin from them, you have the Before/After numbers, correct?

Can't meet for a show down, but we could do this remotely!
Wouldn't it be good for you and your 'crew' if your car is faster!

But, back to testing:
I'm at:
1000' MSL, 45°F, close to standard at baro of 29.83".
And this is a decent day, and it will be much colder for months.
What would your race conditions be at right now?

Plus, my car has the big dumb 17" wheels and tires that came on a Level 5.
I'm lucky to get above 40mpg on road trips and lately it's even less around town. WTH is wrong with this car?
I have a set of stock 15" wheels, but I just bought them and I'm not sure what tires I want, probably the Ecopias.
I'll be selling the 17" Wheels/tires!

 

Yeah but… ah never mind.

 

All I need to do is to remove one hose clamp and one 10mm headed screw; that's alll.

 

Except for the question about how well all the 'Products' you promote actually perform.

 

It's clear.
I lost track of your question and I don't want to bicker, so we can drop it.

However.....
I'm rooting for a Li-ion pack replacement!
I'm not so sure about 'enhanced air by using water' and getting 20-25% INCREASE IN MPG ON THE HIGHWAY I could really use that!)
I read about the Go Pedal signal smoother, I'll pass on that also.
I guess having sponsors is ok here.

 

If , as you do, live in California, you will want to keep the original OEM intake and all of its components, since you might need to replace it to pass the visual C.A.R.B. smog inspection.

As for me, I will keep the OEM and equivalent replacement NiMH battery, as it has a proven track record of lasting for many years. My 2012 battery is still as strong and efficient as when it was new, since I carefully monitor its temperature continuously with my Scangauge 2.

For diagnostic purposes, I will not make irreversible modifications to any system including wiring, as I have a long career of trying to figure out modifications made by others on all types of vehicles. Such modifications can void warranties or incur high and expensive diagnostic costs. Some shops will even refuse to work on such modified vehicles.

I'm just here to help others.

 

I was about to mention the CA smog check. You’ve effectively removed the “HC” gas trap which causes all (that I am aware of) aftermarket intakes on Toyotas to not get a CARB EO #. For most this means starting at year 6 of age the intake will need to be put back for biennial smog inspection….

 

I'd be interested in more details of the filter. Is it a oil wetted like a K&N or a dry one ? Can you get a replacement, if needed? How easy is it to remove for cleaning or replacement?

 

Good,

 

As previously said an intake wont help performance it just makes some noise. Only way it can help performance is with a tune but requires an engine that has alot of horsepower and can use the extra air flow. Not so much with a Prius engine.

If you want a cold air intake its easy and almost free just bypass the coolant loop to the throttle body. Remove the coolant lines from the throttle body and connect them together. 180 degree hot water no longer flows through the TB. Your throttle body is now instantly around 90 degree's colder. And the engine likes that alot.

You live in California it never gets cold you don't need it.

Its the first thing I did when I bought my 07 Prius new. Car ran perfect for 14 years then i sold it. First thing I did with my Corolla.

The more powerful successive Gen's would probably see some small power increase or at the least seem more frisky under full throttle.

And you prolong the life of the TB not having 190 degree water flowing through it. That's hard on the throttle body FBW motor.

Use a 3/8 pex barrel found at Lowes or HomeD connect the 2 hoses together. Drive away.

 

Sounds like you live in hell.