Locking doors blows fuse

Hello! I have a 2008 Prius that blows the 25amp #11 fuse every time I lock the doors. I have read through the previous posts but am hoping with a more specific description and actions someone might have an insight.
The fuse blows when locking by using the switch on the inside of the drivers' door, by using the key fob and by using the mechanical key. It does not blow when unlocking by any method. I have removed all door panels and unplugged all electrical components inside the doors (except mirrors and speakers) hoping it might be an actuator but when I sit in the car with the key and lock it with the fob, it still blows the fuse. I think my only option now is wire tracing which seems overwhelming with the sheer number of wiring components and tight spaces. I was hoping someone might have experience or an educated guess or point out something I've missed to narrow down the possibilities. Thank you!

 

Additionally: Since posting I also used a meter from the line side of fuse #11 to ground and I get 12v. I also did a ground check with an ohm meter from the load side of fuse #11 to ground then kept checking while plugging in each connector one by one. There was no evidence of a short to ground (but maybe other components in the wiring system interfere with that test method).

 

Normally, locking the driver's door with a key initiates electronic locking of all the doors, however, with no fuse/blown fuse it just locks the driver's door old school. I did fob lock and key lock with ALL door wire connections unplugged and it still blew the fuse making me think the problem is between the fuse and the mechanism that receives the fob signal and/or the exterior lock which, when it has electricity, initiates the same process.

 

Thank you for your specific directions. There are no aftermarket products. If I have disconnected all the fittings at foot level on each side (photo) so that there is no longer a connection to the wiring going through the doors and along the floor, and the fuse still blows instantly when locking with the fob, wouldn't that indicate that the problem is between either of the connector groupings at foot level and the fuse box or maybe the fusebox itself? As for the wire tracing, I'm working on it...

 

I'm looking at the 2006 manual which apparently is valid for my 2008. I must be reading it wrong or maybe it isn't valid for '08. Pic 1 shows a yellow wire from 1H on the Body ECU (Pic 2) to the connection at the floor IE2 (where's the fuse in this schematic?). The 25 amp fuse in #11 for door locks is at the bottom of the Body ECU. It's pulled - no fuse in #11- and I still get 12v at the IE2 pin where the yellow line comes in to the connector

 

In response to your questions, the arrow points to the hot wire (hot on the male side) and it is constant. All connectors at both kickplates are disconnected):


That said, I needed to travel for work and my kid needed her car the next day so I sent it to mechanic filling them in on all that had been done so far. The mechanic focused on the fuse box and said they "found a wire at the fuse box shorting out against the frame". I asked for specifics (which wire? which part of the ECU?) but couldn't get any. Sorry I'm traveling and can't complete this post with a more definitive answer for others that have a similar problem but it is solved. Thank you all for your insight and suggestions!