BG hybrid repair kit question

Seems funny to me that a manufacturer is going to be touting low tension oil control rings if that's what I'm understanding here holy be Jesus. So what about the other two compression rings they don't matter or are they also low tension too I don't know I haven't done any of the research and how much of this low tension ring business equals miles per gallon more likely tenths of miles per. gallon

 

How many miles? Even with functional PCV valve things will look thus.

 

The mentioned in their original post that it's around 170K miles. And your comment is correct, I replaced my PCV valve and my EGR components looked like that about 35K miles after my first EGR cleaning and hellish oil burning for some of that.

 

No, the head gasket started seeping oil so I got a rebuild at HybridPit. It runs amazing now.

When it was burning oil at a quart every 3000 the BG set minimized it to a quart every 5000 for a while. At some point I had the intake manifold off to replace the PCV, which didn't improve anything regarding the burning, but I saw that the intakes were clean as a whistle. A huge difference from when I cleaned my EGR and it looked like a demon had barfed into them so I know for a fact that the BG 44K and EPR were doing their jobs. So with this in mind when my engine oil burning fell of a cliff it had to have been something else; maybe leaky valves seals, maybe the leaky head gasket, or both. I wish I knew.

 

You need to clean that too. It's a hassle but worth it since it's the most important part.

 

Your EGR cooler cools the gases coming from the exhaust which is as far as I could understand it is a bad thing for the exhaust gas because it starts to coke and carbonize and do all the things it does and then it gets cooled where it just deposits in the cooler builds up and generally makes a mess I guess so it seems to me that you'd want to be pulling this thing at some kind of mileage interval say 60,000 something along those lines so I just got two or three coolers one's just come back from the machine shop getting tanked and clean you look through it it's whistle clean and all the ports and little waves you can see right through when you hold it up to the light. The one that I just removed from the car when I hold it up to the light you can clearly see what's clogged what isn't and what is passing. So it is obvious that things are happening in this cooler and clogging it up everyday you drive. Those EGR gases in most vehicle help cool the cylinder temps to keep knocking and pre-ignition down I don't know what else it might do on a Prius but that's that. So you might want to keep that part clean and clean it about every 60,000 mi or have a set up where you can swap them out to me the swapping out is the quickest there's one always at the ready on the bench and there's always one getting dirty in the car pretty simple.

 

See first couple of links in my signature. There’s some labour reducing tips to make this go smoother.

 

Pressure washer is the way to go.

Good luck .

 

OVEN CLEANER! It will eat the carbon.
Pressuer washer clears/cleans it out.
Spray in both ends several times. Wear rubber gloves! It will foam, and settle in,
spray again. ETC..... Let it soak for 30 minutes or so, then use the pressure washer.

 

I second oven cleaner. But instead of pressure washer, I use boiling water. I have an electric kettle that boils in 3 mins. I pour it in the EGR after letting the oven cleaner sit. Melts all the carbon down the drain.

 

212 degree water doesn't do much as the exhaust gases are 1500 degrees or higher.

Other methodes work, but take hours and hours of work to do. Oven Cleaner and pressure
washer take minutes....

 

Instead of soaking in voluminous tub of solution: put rubber stopper in one end; takes only 140 cc to fill. Use hottest tap water wth about a rounded tablespoon of Oxi.

Just doing it myself, albeit with not much miles since last time. Likely the last time for me too, considering vehicle age and very low usage. Was doing spark plugs so thought why not.




Even though it’s looking pretty dang clean now, close inspection shows zones still with a carbon skin, and rinses still getting it out, so I’ll keep it up. Have plenty to do anyway, with the valve, and the intake manifold.



about 15 min later, still getting stuff:



@Raytheeagle: I got the dang valve cap screws loose. First warmed up valve “ears” at screws, with a heat gun, then chunk of vine maple to protect the studs, set on chopping block, and some moderate taps, did the trick.