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Multiple ABS units - HELP

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by yi3o8, Nov 4, 2022.

  1. yi3o8

    yi3o8 Junior Member

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    Hi. I have a 2005 Prius that had all the brake lights and ABS pump going off every 20 seconds. I have swapped the ABS actuator on a different 2005 with success that worked fine bleeding without techstream. This time around I am either SUPER unlucky with the units or missing something. If anyone is willing to read through all of this I'd greatly appreciate it.

    - Original ABS: suspected accumulator leak - lights on, beep would come on a few seconds indicating low accumulator pressure, pump would go off and brakes worked normally - classic gen 2 ABS issue

    - Replacement #1 - had laying around, pump whirred/buzzed for 5 seconds and stopped abruptly, figured bad ABS pump / unlucky

    - Replacement #2 - from ebay - whirred/buzzed like normal, bled brakes WITHOUT techstream and on the last rear right wheel it sputtered a bunch and went dead like replacement #1 - figured I did something wrong to burn it out and got Techstream

    - Replacement #3 - from ebay - brake lines super difficult to turn, left top left one loose by accident and thought I cross threaded something (again break lines did not go in easy) BUT pump and accumulator worked fine, buzzed/whirred like normal - used Techstream to bleed - drove around block and thought FINALLY..... but then next morning lights are back on with 1253 value 138 (workup says either issue with ABS motor relays, wiring harness, or ABS pump assembly) brakes are also CHIRPING a little indicating air in system so I bled a few more times without avail. With techstream test mode, brake pump relay #1 is fine - #2 also turns on pump but immediately sets off the lights / swapping relays does nothing (issue stays on top #2 relay) so I figure with chirping noise and workup saying likely bad ABS assembly to try again try again

    - Replacement #4 - replaced in about 2 hours... record time but the pump would not turn on - just hums for about 10 seconds before giving up. Looks great on the outside and brake lines went in by hand very easily. Techstream will not bleed brakes. I attempted to bleed anyway with no avail.

    I've now ordered Replacement #5 which claims to be tested on ebay. I would assume I have other issues with all of these pumps but original and #3 worked for the most part and was drivable but in decline

    *** is there anything the would cause certain pumps to just not even want to turn on that anyone knows of??? If #3 didn't clear all codes and work (except for 1253 when top relay was activated) then I would for sure say it was something else.... but I'm now loosing sleep over it so appreciate any help/ideas
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    With used units and I use them a lot this is just the risk we take so far I've been extremely lucky you have not kind of balances out if you ask me sort of in some weird way but when I go hunt these kind of parts down I try to get them off lower mileage vehicles that were generally owned by old people the kind of thing that sat in the garage and went down to the food line once a week and to the pharmacy on another day of the week and then pretty much sat at home and then I get to see it when LKQ gets it when somebody lightly tapped it in the rear end and it gets totaled by the insurance company LKQ calls me and says Tom we got a cherry down here you want it they do now anyway
     
  3. yi3o8

    yi3o8 Junior Member

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    Fair enough. So I take it your vote is that I've just been unlucky. Which is what I'm hoping for on this "tested" unit if it ships soon. My other option is to go pull it off of parts cars.
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    If you have one in your arsenal that you know works that is always a plus
     
  5. yi3o8

    yi3o8 Junior Member

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    That's the problem. These parts cars have been sitting. I did get the pump working by hitting it lightly with a hammer while humming - it whirls/buzzes now but sounds weak and just gets hot. Doesn't build pressure. And I swear may have darkened the fluid in the reservoir although I don't know if that's my imagination.
     
  6. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Usually the sitting is okay because the hoods generally down everything's covered water's not ingressing into the brake system the unions are still tight If anything's loose it's done at the wheels usually to take calipers in the like but generally shouldn't affect your break valves and accumulator and pump and all that it's way up the line so that shouldn't really be affected so these things must have been already ready to go or something would be my guess
     
  7. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Like I say you can call the JDM importers and tell them what you have and whatever the first seven digits of the VIN of your car or and they'll get you one from that same series of car which will be named something different in the JDM market and they're usually pretty quick about it actually they can make that happen a couple of weeks or they already have it or whatever you should give them a buzz and see what they say
     
  8. yi3o8

    yi3o8 Junior Member

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    drove a few hours for a parts car with 150k. Replaced the pump and resistor and it worked but still had code 1253.

    just finished replacing the fuse linkage and it finally cleared the codes. Going to bleed the brakes again in the morning with techstream and pray it works.

    but fuse linkage powers abs relay. Wasn’t giving proper voltage. C1253 value 138
     
  9. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Well that certainly sounds plausible I mean you're getting a code for low voltage I guess I wouldn't think that would be my ABS accumulator and pump because it would have different language I would think. So you did find something wrong with some sort of harness or wiring going to something that may have been causing the low voltage. That's great man so you should be good to go sounds like.
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Good work. (y)

    And I see the C1253 was already mentioned in your first post. Future PriusChat readers will benefit from your experience and see how paying attention to what the codes mean can save a whole lot of time/effort/money in troubleshooting.

    Now, not everybody's C1253 problem will turn out to be the fusible link. But everybody with a C1253-138 will know that MTT was 3.5 volts or less when the system meant to operate motor relay 2, and so everybody with that code will want to focus on the things in the circuit that could explain that, until the problem is found (whether it turns out to be the fusible link or something else).