How do I air bleed engine coolant 2010 w/ air bleed valve

Olsratch, do you find how to fix it? I am in the same boat as you, bought a Prius V with head gasket issue. Found previous owner put sealant on it and haunted me. Changed the head gasket, misfire is gone but have high engine coolant temperature when driving >70mpg. Changed water pump, thermostat and radiator didn't help.

 

This is what I have tried recently.

Put car into maintenance mode.
I had an app to watch the temp.
Made sure it got to over 180F.
Watched bubbles leave the tube.

http://www.RedBullet.net

http://www.ProjectLithium.com

http://www.Pulstar.com

http://www.PlugOutPower.com

 

That tube is connected to the bleed valve on your 2010? Toyota inexplicably deleted the valve in 2012 model year, btw.

I found just having the valve open as I refilled (on a 2010) did the trick; no subsequent issues.

 

Yes the tube is connected to the bleed valve on my 2010, its good to use because you can see the air bubbles until there are none leaving the system.

http://www.RedBullet.net

http://www.ProjectLithium.com

http://www.Pulstar.com

http://www.PlugOutPower.com

 

I can't get my cooling fans to engage either. Is this normal? Or maybe I'm not patient enough because after 20ish minutes I gave up waiting for it.

 

In my case it worked out; a few days driving and the level settle down to top line.

Still, think I was somewhat misled by the @NutzAboutBolts video: he runs it in maintenance mode, with reservoir cap OFF, a funnel in the neck for top up.

Repair Manual instruction (attached to post 3, prev page) says to fill the reservoir to "B" line (line on side of reservoir, higher than full line), put the cap on tight, and then run the engine in maintenance mode.

This was noted by @ChapmanF , who read a bit more carefully.

 

The use of the bleed valve is covered in the repair manual. You just open it while initially pouring the coolant into the system. Some air escapes there while you pour, and you get a little coolant just about when you reach the B line in the bottle, and then you close the valve.

The rest of the procedure is done with the valve closed. Because the cooling system is a degas-bottle system, the remaining air just gets delivered to the bottle, as designed, so the level drops from B to F.

Toyota later redesigned that fitting without the bleed valve, so later model years don't have it (and neither will your 2010, if you ever have reason to replace that fitting with the current part). Nothing changed in the repair manual instructions, except of course they took out the parts about the valve. It's still a degas-bottle cooling system, and it still delivers its air into the headspace of the bottle as you follow the rest of the instructions as given.