I have power to the engine water pump fuse, but not at relay

It's just a wire inside there, from the fuse terminal to the relay socket pole 3. Doesn't involve the integration relay at all.

Hard for me to believe the wire has failed. You've confirmed voltage at the test points on both sides of the fuse, and you're checking pole 3 (the topmost pole) of the relay socket?

 

What's the resistance between the fuse and the relay?

 

Also, as obvious as it may seem, you need to answer ChapmanF's question on whether you are measuring both sides of the fuse.

 

Huh, that's interesting, 1 ohm indicates the wire is OK. Have you double and triple checked voltage at relay pin 3? Are you measuring with the relay pulled? Might be helpful to post some pictures.

 

I had a problem with my factory original water pump and an aftermarket water pump after I changed my engine due to the blown head gasket in the crack in the center girdle part of the engine I'll have to go look at my notes and see what happened but basically my aftermarket pump that had been on the original engine working just fine when I put that all back in my car. I had a battery problem HV battery problem and I kept getting low RPM codes no water pump codes and something else. It's all here I'll have to go look at my stuff and see what exactly happened.

 

Anything above 1 ohm doesn't mean the wire is not connected, and while true that a wire will typically read below 1 ohm, 1 ohm isn't really going to affect anything, especially not gonna cause a 12v voltage drop.

The reading looks interesting to me because I've never seen a display like that with no decimals and no 'ohm' symbol, but it's been years since I've used a non-auto ranging meter and maybe it's just because it's a 2k ohm setting. Isn't the next click over on the meter a 200ohms setting?

Taking a quick voltage reading between the two points (voltage drop) while you have 12v on the fuse might be worthwhile.

What's the resistance measurement between pin 1 of relay and body ground (as per the test you posted)?

 

Reading on the 2000 ohm scale is likely to be wrong but the pic is too fuzzy to read the meter model to give you definitive guidance. If it is actually 1 and 0 ohms, the wire and fuse is fine. Better pics and the meter model would help.

10 to 1 there is a simple mistake being made with your measurements. Points checked might be wrong, use of meter might be mistaken and or no actual probe connection is being made on certain tests. Almost the same odds on the wp itself being bad especially if it was aftermarket or original.

What matters is the power and ground at the water pump AND the two digital signals / wires that control the water pump speed. To be precise you would measure the wp plus (1) and gnd (5) at the water pump, not using chassis ground. Among other things, the ground wire from the pump could be disconnected or open.

There is no simple way with a low cost meter to check the digital lines, typically you want a graphing device such as an oscilloscope or one of the few graphing meters.

 

You might be able to pull it up if the terminal is in one piece. Otherwise its pull the box apart or an external fuse holder bypass might be required.

 

Just go with an external holder like Parker said if you get to picking around in that fuse box and mess something up and have to take it apart or if you got a real problem you might as well be looking the 2010 to 13 fuse box I guess the whole assembly once you start taking that bad boy apart it's pretty ugly

 

The fuse box isn't really separately replaceable. Some of the lift-out units in it are, but the bulk of it is just part of the engine compartment wire harness—the wires grow right out of it, they don't all plug in. That harness is a pretty penny.