Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

M6x1.0

 

Ah missed the intent of the question.

there will be a specific bolt with a part no. Toyota USA’s part site is best bet for fastener track down.

 

Most likely M6x1.0x16 flange bolt with a 10mm hex flange washer head.. A few years ago, I went to a pick your part wrecking yard and got a dozen of them. They are widely available as ISO 10.9 J.I.S. bolts on the aftermarket. I now have over 50 of them.

 

Hey thanks for the idea, I went to a junk yard today. Paid $5 and they let me keep the bolts, also thought about getting a full size tire to replace my spare tire in the trunk so I’ll do that next week or so! You guys are awesome!

 

2,000* mile update during oil change. Next oil change will be at 166,000 miles. All of this was oil

 

1. Anybody know where to get this piece?
2. Do I need it?
3. If I need it can I get the piece alone or do I have to buy a new cover that covers everything?

 

Here

 

You can't get just that piece, it's part of the overall cover.

 

Mendel,
Have you heard of Gen 3 Prius’ getting louder after oil catch can? I’m also running all tires at 36PSI but it wasn’t this loud before. I just finished the Transmission fluid drain + refill

 

OCC shouldn't affect how loud the engine runs. Check for vacuum or gasket leaks, loose screws/bolts/clamps, hoses not reconnected properly.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Thank you, I’ll check that tonight & also check the throttle body’s performance. I’ve read that if cleaned incorrectly it can hesitate to open, thus working hard and making the engine louder. I might also double check my OCC connections, some clamps might be making contact with the engine

 

You can omit hose clamps on hoses pushed onto barb connectors, especially those sharp edged connectors hardware stores typically sell. The clamps are redundant and screw-style in particular can compress the hose ends too much, weaken them.

I split the original EGR hose at the middle, pushed on barb connectors ran 3/8” fuel line to barb connectors on OCC. The only clamps are the originals, spring-clamp style between EGR hose ends and PCV valve and intake manifold. Everywhere else I’m just relying on the barb connections to seal.

somewhere on this site I read advice to that effect, can’t track it down right now though:

https://www.new-line.com/

 

Pressure inside PCV hoses should almost always be below atmospheric (assuming no turbocharger or supercharger). Clamps on hoses might be helpful if the engine backfires.

 

I went ahead and pulled everything out to clean up:
1. cut some hose going from engine to OCC for reduction in length and because the hose has signs of pressure from the clamp I had before. So I replaced that clamp for the original butterfly style clap.
2. Cleaned throttle body well just in case making sure I covered the sensor while cleaning.
3. removed clamp from air intake to OCC (in the middle connecting the 3/8s hose to the barb connector to OCC)
4. Made sure everything was to spec when putting everything back together.
5. Noticed when I first put everything together a few weeks ago that I hadn’t put some hoses where they belonged so I fixed that.
6. Secured another area with a bolt that was missing.

- I drove around and noticed it was somewhat still loud but not as loud as before.

- noticed the noise coming from the exhaust pipe when I left the car idle in my garage (noise began when oil engine came on to charge the battery) which I assume is normal, my car might be old and I might just have my front right rotor that is bad (got into a fender bender 2 months ago). I’ll get that checked out next week.

this morning I pulled the 12V battery cable for about 10 minutes for a system reset to see if it would do anything). It is actually not as loud and everything seems to be working fine.

Next project would be adding Dynamat to my rear doors and possibly the trunk area.

 

I am currently working on installing a rather long catch can. I can only find 2 locations that it would fit. One is behind the engine back by the passenger side strut tower. The second location is right below the PCV valve attached to the engine. I was thinking of using the top bolt on the starter hole insulator plate to mount to. Since this car doesn't use a starter I am thinking it could be a good spot. Anyone think this is a bad Idea?

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

I think someone else used that location. It's "sprung", moves with the engine, which is good.

I put mine nearby to that location, on a bracket mounted atop the lower/front cross beam, basically the top face of the front/center jacking point. Due to it's jacking function, I found out a solidly mounted bracket made ominous noises whenever you used that jacking point, due to the beam flexing. I reworked the bracket connection to the beam, sandwhiched some rubber between the bracket and beam, kept the fasteners just finger-tight and locked.

 

Don't know if I posted this in this long thread, but I mounted my OCC between the engine coolant reservoir and the engine. There's quite a bit of room above my installation for a taller OCC.

I relocated the PCV valve to the output side of the OCC as well for super easy access.

Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.

 

Keep in mind the engine is “sprung”, can move a bit relative to the engine bay.

 

Can somebody help me out. My car has been making this wobbling/rotating noise coming from the exhaust. I had my front brakes and rotators replaced last week and the mechanics didn’t find anything wrong with the exhaust. But it gets loud the higher speeds I go.

https://youtube.com/shorts/VbvVvxPWrWg?feature=share

 

As an update: the noise came after installing an oil catch can, cleaning air intake & EGR pipe.

I don’t have any knocking, cold start ups or issues of that matter!!

I am in sunny Florida with rain + rust. My tires are 36PSI all around (good year all terrain). But as you can see the noise comes from the muffler