Prius "Recommended Maintenance" at 25K miles

I regularly get coupons from my dealership for an oil change, sometimes as cheap as $10-20. I went there and they told me to do $1000+ jobs, I just politely deny all of them and ask for oil change only. It is typical American dealerships by luring us to visit them and slap us with that kind of SCAM.

Alignment is required only if you have an obvious bad tire wear pattern, or pull to one side. Not to be confused with the right pull from the slope of most state roads. Wear on the edges from winding roads driving is also normal.
There is no need for transmission flush in a hybrid because you change 99.9999% of the fluid from the drain and refill.
Brake fluid flush is only needed if you do repairs in brake lines or use $5 tester that is pretty accurate from eBay or Amazon. Once every 10 years is enough.
Yes, visit AMD, The CarCareNuts YouTuber. He is a very honest and highest-certified master diagnostic Toyota.
Cleaning the throttle body is very easy and safe in Toyota. Just 10mm socket, some Philips screwdrivers, soft towels, and carburetor cleaner. Don't use brake cleaner.

 

I definitely agree, the cost are all overpriced and that is something that shouldn't be a surprise. People that go to dealerships in the first place know they are paying a premium (not saying they are truly getting premium quality in return). There's no trickery involved, anyone can take that list and go to a local mom and pop shop that can perform the same job. Not worrying about price at all, that list looks like appropriate good recommended services for a 6 year old prius (some may be a stretch). Just because a business is overpriced doesn't make them a scammer.

 

Perhaps (not really, since several of those “services” aren’t even needed on a Gen4 Prius, but for the sake of discussion), but my question was “what would it take for you to see the dealership as scammers”, since this doesn’t. I seriously would like to know.

 

it is very simple. Check your handbook manual and download the scheduled service interval on the Toyota website or forum. 2021 Toyota Prius Manuals & Warranties | Toyota Owners or Scheduled Maintenance Guide | PriusChat for gen 3, which has an identical maintenance schedule.
Anything else outside the scheduled service is SCAM except you can see it with your own eyes if the shocks/struts are leaking, the brake worn out, worn tires, etc.
Some maintenance practices that are not on the schedule:
1. Aisin recommends changing transmission fluid WS every 60-100k miles. Lifetime ATF fluid means until the warranty expired, not really lifetime.
2. Brake fluid is also not in the schedule for North America Toyota but 5-10 years for a hybrid is enough. Don't follow the stupid European handbook that needs a brake fluid flush every 2 years to keep Toyota dealerships getting a large profit margin on maintenance. Especially since Europeans can get Relax 10 years warranty if maintained in the dealership after the 3rd year.
3. Clean the EGR valves and intake manifolds when needed, probably every 100-150k miles for gen 4 and 75-100k miles for gen 3 to avoid pinging, head gasket leaks, etc.

There is no such thing called "hybrid battery service", there is only a hybrid system check which checks the filter for the battery fan and scans the voltage and internal resistance with OBD2. You can do that by yourself with Veepeak, Panglong, or Carista OBD2 + Dr. Prius apps.

 

There’s footnotes in the maintenance schedule that are really worth paying attention to. For example, regarding brake fluid, every 6 month/5000 mile interval it says to check the level AND condition; regarding the two coolant systems at the same interval it says To check level, AND condition, AND freezing point.
Perhaps everyone should ask themselves “why would they make those statements?”. And when you go to a dealership for those services (if you do) EXPECT to see notes showing those numbers (and ask to see them if you don’t).
The OP lives in Chicago where right now they are experiencing humidity levels between 70% and 100%, and these values can be experienced throughout the year. Why is that important? Look up “brake fluid” and “hygroscopic” and you can learn why. In so doing one will realize what brake fluid “condition” is all about.
Regarding coolant condition look up what happens as coolant ages.

 

The dealership is likely just using the term “flush” to describe a drain and fill.

with the Prius a transaxle fluid change is about the same degree of complexity/cost as an oil change; should not be more than $100. It is worthwhile, especially early on. My 2 cents: do it around 12 months or 10k miles. Then it’s good for a long time.

 

A very strong argument for learning how to do as much of your vehicles' maintenance as you can. In the 80's, I started with checking fluids and changing air filters and then bought some drive-on ramps (which are great for front-wheel drive cars) and started changing my own oil. These days, the only stuff I really don't mess with are suspension and 4-wheel drive parts but, with Toyota's, they usually last for many, many years so I don't mind dishing out the money if they need fixing...but NEVER through my dealership, you need to find a LOCAL, good mechanic for service.
This is my schedule and I do everything in my garage or I drive over to the AF Academy Auto Hobby shop and borrow a lift ($6 an hour and really helps keep my bad back from aching.) * means Prius doesn't need

Oil/Filter : Every 6-months or 5,000 miles
Air Filter : As Needed (check every 6-months)
Cabin Air : Every 12-months (Charcoal)
Radiator Coolant : Every 5-years or 100,000 miles
Hybrid Coolant : Every 5-years or 100,000 miles
CVT/AT Tranny : Every 6-years
* Power Steering Fluid : Every 4-years/50,000 miles (Not Hybrids)
* Front/Rear DIffs : Every 3-years (AWD Prius has a rear diff)
* Transfer Case: Every 3-years
* Lube : Every 12-months
Replace Spark Plugs/PCV and PCV Valve Hose/ Radiator Cap / Gas cap Every 10-years
Brake Fluid Flushed Every 4-years/50,000 miles
Throttle Body Cleaned Every 25,000 Miles
MAF Sensor Cleaned Every 25,000 Miles
Tire Rotation Every 5,000 Miles

 

Yep; It's easy to say follow the manual; - But it's much better to TEST!!!!! We don't live in a vacuum and we are all not average, which is the basis for the engineering based maintenance schedule.

Coolant: requires a litmus test and glycol level test - you can find both test kits for a dollar each @ Walmart

Brake fluid: WoW, I didn't realize these tester got so cheap!!! The last time the Snap-on rep tried to sell me one it was north of a C-note. I'm going to have to buy one!!!!!!

Happy wrenching.....

FYI: most dealer service writers; don't wrench on cars. They follow a script; If a car is x-years old and/or x-number of miles; try to sell them this.........

 

I must say their sales department are definitely sleezy since they do try to milk every dollar on a sale. For the maintenance department, Maybe it’s different for every dealership, cause my 2 local ones don’t give me the image as I if I was being scammed. During Toyota care period, I brought in for oil changes and requested for parts back to prove they did the oil change. I won’t argue the possibility that dealership can be scammers to selective targeted people. I don’t seem to get the exhaustive list of services that others do. I DIY all my services, except for few moment. Those few moments, I do try to see if they try and say there’s something wrong with my car when I know nothing is wrong. When that happens, then I’ll be convinced they are scammers.

 

Dealership's main profit comes from the Finance department, Insurance, and Service/Repair. they do not get a large profit margin from parts and even new car sales. The profit window is limited. For Repair and Maintenance, they can play whatever they want, some dealerships can charge 2-3x more than other dealerships for the same exact maintenance or repair. So, be careful when taking a Toyota service advisor, they got % wise money for any repair or maintenance. Not all of them are the same but some are just pure SCAM.

I came for 2 recalls, Dashboard melting in Sienna limited and Steering column on Prius 06. They do not put everything right because my car is already 200k miles/12 years old. After the dashboard is replaced, the steering moves side to side because some of the bolts are very loose. In Prius, the car drags the undercover until it is shredded from missing bolts. If your car is still under warranty, they will be more careful but if not, watch them like you watch Juvenille jails.

 

Yep, with the extreme shortage of new Toyota's to sell, dealerships are relying on their service department to help make up for the missing revenue....it stinks!! Mine has contacted me numerous times with service specials and maintenance reminders over the past year and that's not something they've normally done.
My 2014 Tundra needed a new engine air filter so I stopped by the dealer on the way home yesterday.....$30!! WHAT? I only want one! And I did see their service waiting area was very full so that's good for business....it would not be good for our dealership to close up.

 

Suggest flushing brake fluid a time interval, whether you drive much or not, as it's unavoidable it will pick up moisture and become corrosive. On modern cars using DOT3 fluid in semi-dry Northern California I've found changing at 3yrs to be okay (maybe 2yrs for DOT4) but at 5yrs fluid definitely was too old with signs of corrosion and sediment. If you do much hot braking (mountains, towing, etc.) change more often. You can have brake fluid tested for a) water content and b) presence of copper ion, which indicates corrosion (two different tests). I doubt any of the inexpensive electronic testers are accurate or reliable.

Alignment only when it needs it - abnormal tire wear, after replacing suspension components, and as a precaution after hitting a hard pot hole or curb.

It's not a bad idea to change other fluids at ~ 5 yrs, coolant, transmission, etc., even if miles are low as they also age with time. If unsure you can have coolant tested to see if the additives still are good.

 

The electronic testers simply gives you a reference point. Nothing is 100% accurate, it's an illusion. My work test equipment is required to be recertified and recalibrated annually, by state & federal law. On multiple occasions, over my 30 year career, they screwed up the calibration on my equipment. I know this because all the equipment I touch seems to be off by the same value. These are solid state circuits; they don't drift like the old stuff. So I pull out my old weights & measure equipment, and sure enough - it's off by the same value. A side note; the director of my department has told me to throw away those old weights & measure equipment on multiple occasions. The reasoning is because we have this other outfit taking care of it.

A weeks worth or work is lost and needs to be redone, and all we get is a certificate for a free recertification.

Enough wining; the brake fluid tester is a point of reference that has a wide failure margin. green OK, yellow, and red failure based on moisture content conductivity of the brake fluid, if there's copper ions floating around - it's more conductive; therefore red failure lamp should light up. You can test this by dipping the tester in a newly open bottle of brake fluid, make sure you clean it first!. It should obviously come up green lamp.

Re: Alignments; this should also be done when you get a new set of tires. If alignments was done on the old set of tires, with the old tire wear patterns, the alignment may be off with the new tires. That way, your don't force your new tires into your old tires wear patterns; if they were slightly off and wearing unevenly. I always do this whenever I buy a new set of tires - it's cheap insurance. Don't forget to replace those TPMS with those tires - if so equipped.

Hope this helps.

 

I humbly disagree
My 2006 Prius TPMS worked flawlessly for 5 sets of tires, 210k miles, and 14yrs until I had one go out. So at that time, in 2020, I replaced all 4 for $400. Add to it the tires for another $400.
I understand prevention, but just don’t see the need to replace when they work fine.

 

WoW, 14 years!!! They're spec'ed for about 5-8 years and $30 each on Rock auto today. It's another $120, but most places will install them for free and reprogram them for free, with tire purchase. You avoid the $280 wack.
If you do a lot of highway driving and go through tires every two or three years, by all means skip the TPMS replacement.

 

Our '10 has build date August 2009, TPMS sensors all still fine. If and when they die I doubt I'll replace, just use regular valves with next tire replacement.