Head Gasket Replacement on Gen 3 prius

@Mendel Leisk Thank you for the quick response! Do I need to clean the other cylinders? Or can I clean the surrounding areas with a blade and proceed with putting it back together?

I did clean egr pipe 2 months ago (will clean again) and planning to clean the EGR cooler too. Is there anything else I need to look into and inspect before I proceed with the installation?

 

Totally forgot about the intake manifold. Will clean that too since it's already off. On my way to the machine shop. I hope the head or pistons aren't warped/bent.

Is $156 a good deal for the kit?
0411237254 - Gasket kit, engine valve grind - Genuine Toyota Part

 

Update: Got the back from the machine shop last Friday and they had to machine the surface, remove carbon deposits from the valves, and it also needed a valve job.

The manuals state we need to put the gasket and tighten the head bolts within 15 minutes of putting the head back on. I forgot to line up the exhaust outlet and had to remove the head and put it back the second time. Then I realised the torque wrench I was using randomly changed the torque (because it has a stupid locking mechanism). So had to loosed and tighten the bolts again (36lbs, 90 and 45 degree turns)

Stopped there as I was unsure if I could remove the head and bolts multiple times. Do I need to have it machined again, new gasket or swap out the bolts again?

Will resume putting it back together once I know what to do.

 

Thank you So

Thank you @Mendel Leisk!
I did not slide it, just picked it up and placed it in an awkward angle to get the exhaust lined up. Noticed some oil leak onto the gasket (I guess they put some oil on after the valve job to lube it?), so i cleaned the surface of the gasket with a rag and proceeded to put the head bolts back on.

I would like to replace the bolts though just to be sure, is that advisable?

Update: spoke with my mechanic, it's a go on the new head bolts. Do not want to redo the job if/when the old head bolts break etc.

 

Question: I've seen a few videos and no one mentioned the torque specs for the cam housing except for one. This video states 22 for the 12mm bolts (yellow ones) and 12 ft-lbs for the 10 mm bolts (black ones). Is that right? Mine is 2011.

Also can, can someone identify the part in the picture that I broke off? It sits right under the big pipe going into the head.

 

Also can, can someone identify the part in the picture that I broke off? It sits right under the big pipe going into the head. View attachment 227120 [/QUOTE]

Any help here is appreciated!

@Mendel Leisk I've tightened the head bolts with 36 lbs-ft + 90 + 45 degree turns and the gold and black cam bolts to 20 and 12 lbs-ft torque respectively.
Proceeding to timing chain tomorrow. If I got the torque values wrong please correct me.

 

On this page?


TRANSAXLE ASSY(HEV OR BEV OR FCEV). 2011 Toyota Prius | Toyota

That looks like part number 30900H. Thank you for the link.


If you click on the first "head gasket replacement" link in my signature, it takes you to post with a batch of repair manual excerpts. I believe it's this one:

203170_2010_Toyota_Prius_Repair_Manual_-_Cylinder_Head_Removal.pdf

That has the torque values.[/QUOTE]

Oh my goodness! I was looking at the pdfs in your links for 2 days now and just realized the torque values are right there on the first page right next to the bolts.

I hope the car runs after being worked on by an mechanically impaired person like me.

 

Update: Purchased new head bolts and compared the length with old ones. The old head bolts were significantly longer than the new ones (confirmed visually).
Cleaned the surfaces, applied silicone, put the cam housing and torqued the bolts (Need to remove the shop towel once the timing cover is in place)

The colored links on chain seems to be going to all the right places, please see pictures. Gasket masters video only mentioned ensuring the links are right next to the markings on both cams and crank, but @ASRDogman mentioned rotating the crank twice (720 degrees) in this post with the timing cover on? Wouldn't it be easier with the timing cover off and using the keyway as a reference?


1) Am I missing something about the timing chain?
2) Btw, would be prudent to get a new chain too?

 

Ah shoot... totally forgot about the tensioner.

Sorry to be such a bother, but just to see if I got this right: Put the timing cover on, rotate the crankshaft bolt 720 degrees clockwise, come back up and check the rectangle notch and the extended notch on the cams are back where they were pre-rotation?

 

Thank you for your patience, and your guidance is greatly appreciated!
I though the color links are supposed to jump a tooth every rotation and would take about 70 rotations to line up with the notches on cams according to this post.
Maybe I'm reading too much into this, will put the timing cover and tensioner on tomorrow and see for myself.

It would've been much easier if gasket masters included this in their video lol, or someone did.

 

Decided to take your advice and proceed with timing cover installation today.

after cleaning the components and getting the surface ready for silicone, I noticed the crankshaft seal is a non reusable item in @Mendel Leisk repair manuals. It too a few hours to locate and drive to purchase the item locally.

i had a little difficulty getting the links to line up and sit flush on the gear teeth. Almost like the chain shrunk just a bit. One of the three marked links was 1/3rd off their teeth from sitting flush. Tinkered with the swing arms and got it to sit almost right and decide timing chair tensioner might take care of the rest.

Decided to “mock” put on the timing cover and harmonic balancer to check the marking is at 0 degrees on timing cover (denotes TDC of the cylinders?). The marking is off. Like way off. Attached pictures after mock putting on tuning cover.

Did i completely screw up? How do I go from here?